yogi-bear

Lots to do, but until I can print all the parts, I might as well crack on with the box. So this is only reference I have, plus images of other boxes and they all follow a similar style. The first step was to re-draw the logo, that was not too bad, with some editing in photoshop, you can get a better image and then I hand traced it. Because the jeep shares the same basic chassis as other cars, there are many elements I can borrow from other boxes. Luckily @silvertriple had a Golden Eagle box in decent condition and sent me some hi-res scans. So after a couple of hours artwork time, I had an initial layout with partially cleaned up scans from the Golden Eagle box added in, plus some hand blending of the body gave me this.It probably looks better as a smaller file that it actually is. Parts of the body are still badly pixelated and the scans on the side will need tidying up some more. At the time I had done this artwork I was also going to see a demo of a printer I want to eventually get. So this artwork become one of the sample files I use and I printed a test box at full scale. The size I based it on was the Marui Galaxy box I have and it's likely to be very similar to the others. I was pretty happy with this test print, and once I have printed all the parts I can see if I need to adjust the box sizing.

so the first part was making the stickers. I took screenshots of the 3D model and sized them in Illustrator. From there I used the catalog reference to setup the artwork and adjust. I also checked some of the other decal sheets, for the Eagle and Super Wheelie to get an idea of the lights etc. Silvertriple helped me check the sizing too as at this point I hadn't been able to print a body yet. I printed the decal sheet on some optical clear vinyl using white ink. The sizing is pretty close, but I will refine it once I can print my own body.

hmm, where to start, well firstly credit needs to go to @silvertriple as without his hard work, this project wouldn't be possible. So, Marui in the 80s, one of the early iconic RC manufacturers which made the first RC monster track, as with Tamiya, they had a RC catalogue with all they had to offer. Except one car in their line up never made it to market. In fact as far as I can tell, there has never been a picture of one, not even a prototype, and that is RC 9 Mitsubishi Jeep the Chassis is shared among the Big Bear, Golden Eagle and Toyota Landcruiser. I am not too sure why Marui abandoned this, especially as they clearly intended on releasing it, but either way there doesn't seem to be any examples at all, even a prototype, of which at least a couple of them must have existed. So chatting to @silvertriple, he'd been diligently 3D modelling the Mitsubishi Jeep based on what little pictures there are as well as referencing the other models this to bring it to life, and I had offered to make a sticker set for it, the idea was hatched to make a kit version as well. So this thread will track this project, with the idea of making everything so that it's just like a boxed kit you would have bought if it had been released. That includes the box, all the bags, and packaging etc inside the box and hopefully some sort of manual as well. The plan is to have the complete kit by the end of the year. The plan is to make everything too, well as much as possible. I'll of course source the nuts, bolts and screws, motor, electronics, some metal pieces, but everything else I should be able to make in some form, by either 3D printing, vac forming or general printing. I will also have to recreate all the artwork for the box, the manual (I'll borrow heavily from the Golden Eagle and Toyota Landcruiser manuals) and then make up the rest of the header cards etc based on the other models. @silvertriple 's thread where he 3D models this and the other Jeeps can be found here, its worth checking out.

some very cool projects there, that are finally finished.

no worries, once you've scanned it, pm me, I'll get you to send the file to me and I can check and upscale it for you.

its basically a quality measure. DPI is dots per inch, the more dots, the better you can make your image. 300DPI is consider normal for general printing (brochures, posters etc) and 72DPI is/was typically used for computer screens etc, although I am sure with today's hi-def monitors and tvs that is changing. So when you scan the image, you should have an option to select the quality, and that should be a DPI setting. Most scanners go up to about 1200DPI, but that would be way more than needed. If you can't select a DPI, then just select whatever is the highest on offer. Also it's preferable to save out as a tiff file, but that will make it quite large, otherwise a jpg or pdf is the next preferable, png is the least preferable. Tif will have the best image information retention in the file, while formats like jpg and png will reduce the quality of the image, but that also saves on file space.

even better! should be ok to scale up then, but still scan at a minimum of 600DPI

do you have a scanner? thats pretty easy for me to copy, and I have found the SACHS logos online, just have to do the body panels parts

I think it's possible, and have done similar things myself, but like above has mentioned it's not exactly straightforward. I usually scan and remake the artwork in illustrator, although I would guess you don't have that program. You could do the same in Inkscape which is free, the basics aren't too hard to learn. If the decal sheet has any logos in it, you could google the logo with the term vector and will probably find it online. Scan the decal sheet at 600DPI as a minimum too, to get maximum information. After scanning I would take into photoshop as it has enhancing and artifcate removal tools built in, but there are online versions (some free and some paid) and they are quite impressive on what they can do now. another option is to scan the sheet and the use that or parts there-of to google image search for related images. I have been successful sometimes in finding hi-res versions that someone else has posted online. Any chance you can post and image of what you want to scan?

howdy, its been a while! yeah, slowly getting there, but improving the technique Yeah, I do need to get back onto those bodies and return yours with a few copies, haven't forgotten! The only thing I need to do now is sort out PC forming, and that shouldn't be too hard, I just have to finish off the dry box, which I am working on. thats an amazing channel, I'd seen one of his videos where he did the Al frame

3D printed a full scale version of @silvertriple Hunter protoype body in eSun ABS+ filament and run 5 vac forms with 1.5 mm ABS. They turned out well and this was little degradation of the 3D print. I think I could easily get 20 or more forms from it. Next step is white ABS and then try some polycarbonate

ok, managed to do a second test, this time full scale and printed in eSun ABS+ a couple of errors, but overall not too bad. I had planned to clean it up a little, but ran out of time and thought just do it! So I ran 5 forms using 1.5 mm hair cell ABS, a little bit of trouble getting the mold out, I need better grip on the underneath, but otherwise no real dramas and the all formed really well. The 3D printed mold is starting to smooth a little, but otherwise I think I could have kept going for 20 or more forms with out too much trouble. I'll start cutting them out over the weekend and take some better pics.

did some testing with a 3D printed multi-part mold of a Marui Hunter Prototype body that @silvertriple had drawn up in Fusion360. The Body has under hangs along the side, so a one piece mold won't work. For this test I used PLA+ for the mold and 0.75 mm for the body, the next test I will use ABS for the mold and body. I have a video on my thread about vac forming,

ok, some more minor updates. @silvertriple has been 3D modelling the Hunter Prototype body and kindly sent me a file 3D for printing. The body has under hangs on each side, so in order to vac form properly one option is to have the mold in a couple of pieces for easy removable. So this is a test of that. Silvertriple set it up so it's in 5 pieces. Two side pods, a front and back and a connector underneath. As it's only a test, I printing this at a smaller scale to save on filament and in PLA+. I'll only really get one or two goes, but it should show if the concept of the mold pieces works.

that 1/32 Hunter will be a pretty cool project, keen to see how it runs.