Andyrt200

I can’t remember if I ever did put the tamiya putty in anything in the end, I’d forgotten everything I’d put on this thread so thanks for finding it! The diffs them selfs have held up fine, I went for a little less in the Thundershots diffs (I may have put the tamiya putty in that). It probably would have worked fine but it has done a badword of a lot of speed runs with an eventual best top speed of 61mph however there were a lot of crashes, exploded tyres, lost drive shafts etc in that time, I guess crashing at 50mph can theoretically see the wheels ending up spinning at up to 100mph in opposite directions. So not too surprisingly most of the putty had escaped from those diffs, seemed to come out behind the drive cups though so doesn’t cause any issues just obviously much less locking effect after it’s escaped. I just put that back together with a normal brushed motor for a bit of regular bashing & it’s still running well. I did try speed running all the cars, most didn’t get too much over 40mph & the putty stayed in fine doing that. The Xtream & Super Blackfoot diffs still have just the same amount of locking as they did after it had settle down from the first couple of runs. They don’t snap drive shafts anymore than I remember them doing before. So the in summary no ill effects at all from the diff putty, it makes a real difference in the Blackfoots having stoped them getting stuck many times. It just a shame you can’t use it on the original Blackfoot diffs. The Super Blackfoot its an amazing basher though it just keeps taking the punishment while the original has to come in for repairs after almost bashing session! The GF01 was a constant nightmare in terms of snapping Drive shafts, I built it wide with WT01 parts from new so it uses those shafts. I posted on here some time ago about that & got a good tip about different drive shafts to use it hadn’t snapped one since. It is starting to snap the middle axle out of the chassis now so has been shelved till I get round to fixing it. That’s more to do with jumping, brushes motors & the wide conversion than diff putty though I think though.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=264818521283&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Hopefully the add has it all....

Oh I miss this on first look, any info for 13Ts? I only had a steel 17T & couldn’t find anything smaller in steel. Mind is currently running a standard 15t but is too fast brushless & over heats 540s on grass with the slightly bigger Boomerang wheels. I’m looking for a steel 13T now.

Good to see another coming out of retirement. Its a great car to get running again. Once you have replaced all the black plastic parts with new its a really tough car. The blue parts seem to be indestructible! I have rebuilt mine a few times over, last time I checked the only part you couldn’t get new was the front bumper & body. Hence mine having a different one. If you get really carried away with the mods you’ll end up here That’s son driving it at 61mph, he was 8 or 9 then! He started at 2 with my Hornet I rebuild it for him with a 360 motor to slow it down. There are loads of videos of it crashing at around 50mph it drove away from most of those crashes. If I’d have stuck that wing on sooner there would have been a lot less crashing! This is all with a 17T pinion & Boomerang wheels as I was going for max top speed 2s lipos with a 4300kv brushless motor sees about 30mph (probably too much for daily use!) 3s lipo, 4300kv well into the 40mph zone, just about to 50mph 3s lipo 5200kv high 50mph zone 4s lipo 5200kv got that 61mph & a fried brand new 120A ESC! We stopped trying there as it was costing too much! I’m looking to slow it down now for general bashing but won’t hijack your thread for that...

Is it a GF01 that’s spitting them out? You reminded me I have found them not broken before, but I’m not sure which car they were from. I think it was probably from snapping something so the driveshaft could easily escape, probably Thundershot a long time ago, broken too much stuff over the years to remember!

Yes sorry probably should have said that, it took me a while to work out that was the issue. To start with I thought they were getting bent by hitting things till I noticed the ends didn’t line up any more, the bending come from the twisting. My Thundershot has the same drive shafts & tends to bend them a lot more like that with it having smaller wheels. I think I’ve actually only snapped one in that in all our many crashes getting it up to just over 60mph for the speed runs! The WT01 isn’t too bad really it not that often it snaps them. It’s the G6 with them in that’s the main problem. The three “axles” are obviously all joined by the gearbox so there isn’t even a prop shaft that can give a bit, you often land front or back first so have the momentum of the other two axles still spinning added in too.

No binding, it’s mainly landing a jump still on full power with brushless motors, I just heard one snap as my daughter did it. She’s of average skill & takes some encouragement to drive them anyway so I don’t want to put her off. My son on the other hand has been perfecting his control of them in the air with the throttle & managed to combine that with coming off the power on landing & didn’t break any. Having quite a bit of diff putty to give it a stiff LSD effect is hard on the drive shafts too. My Super Blackfoot used to snap its drive shafts on every roll with a solid locked diff.

Perfect thanks, I’ll give those a try then

We have just been bashing the CC-01 & CR-01 over the winter they have enough mods to just keep going now, so I haven’t been on here for a while. I did get round to at least getting them all on display With lockdown, lots of space at home & our own track we have been getting the others out more. My sons wide G6 keeps snapping drive shafts on hard landings though, it often will snap three at one time, it’s getting silly & I’m running out of spares! Am I going to have to be boring & take the brushless motor out or are there any uprated drive shafts for them? (Being a wide conversation its running WT01 shafts) The WT01 seems to cope with brushless power in general & goes a lot longer before maybe snapping one driveshaft. Also I haven’t looked very hard yet buy the parts tree with the body mount seems to be unavailable now, is that right? Sorry I expect that’s been covered before, but as I said I’ve not had time / cause to be on here for a while.

My original has had the frog drive shafts since the Frog re-re came out. I found shimming out the drive shafts can cause the suspension to bind mid way up when the distance between the wheels axles & drive cups is shortest. I converted the trailing arms to run on bearings so they move more freely but are held in place much more firmly. The plastic pivots wear over time allowing the trailing arms to move out so the drive shaft pop out even more frequently with age. Its a bit of a fiddle, the smaller (850 I think) bearing fits the thin end perfectly but I had to make a spacer out of an old hornet gearbox for the fatter end. There is a bit of old TX arial to to keep the inner bearings held in against the outer, the outer is braced with a washer against the stock end cap with hole drilled very carefully in the centre. The bearings have to sit in the exact perfect place to be held tight so everything needs cutting very accurately. I also cut threads onto my new shaft the bearings sit on just to hold it in place, but that’s not essential, it only needs to be held in place, push on star type fixers would probably work for that too. With the old frogshot diff mod it works very well! https://youtu.be/9GJyslBQB2I

Great thanks. Seems the TS4N is the best of the lot then, still a good few spares for them on eBay too. Shame we have limited on road road places to drive! The kyosho chassis will go straight on eBay then, try to get some money back, think I paid too much. Seems the Trax isn’t worth much at all. I wasn’t planning on selling it but was just checking the prices of sold trucks & found whole working trucks have sold for less than people are asking for just the engine!!

I’ve never tried Nitro cars before, had some aeroplanes back in the day but apart from engine tuning they don’t have a lot in common. Having only really ever had battery powered Tamiya cars all my life I don’t know much about this lot I just picked up locally: The Traxxas is a t-maxx apparently & has a blown engine. There quite a lot of info about those about. The other two I’ve never heard of, here they are with the bodies off with the HPI & a Kyosho that didn’t come with any bodies. The red chassis seems to be a thunder tiger TS-4n it looks reasonably intact apart from the engine not being in it. They came with a box of engines but I suspect there will be something missing from the drive train! This one I can’t work out: Shame about that front suspension arm, maybe find one from a tamiya to fit? Looks like it would run apart from that. The HPI Looks ok, shame about the parts supply! Seems to a Rush something, maybe Pro? Don’t suppose it really matters if you can’t get the parts anymore! The Kyosho was a 4x4 but it looks like the grub screw from the prop shaft came loose & destroyed the input to the front gearbox. It has an engine in the box that looks ok. Any known what kit is? Just trying to work out what to try mending & what to just sell on for parts.

The part 2 thread sounds like a great idea, so glad you put your hand up @speedy_w_beans I really want to try to get my original Blackfoot up to 50mph but my better half seems to think working on the house is more important for some reason at the moment... Thanks again @Jason1145 my son & I had such a blast running all our cars for this thread

Unfortunately this hobby does take up a lot of time, fitting it in with home life & a young family can create some issues. A break is sometimes needed, my batteries are all in storage at the moment & the cars safety tucked up, I wouldn’t sell any of mine but I think Jason was often changing cars in his collection. Hopefully someone else will be able to keep this thread going, it’s a brilliant idea!

Maybe not! I was doing some testing with the clearly not working new 120A ESC & found the old trusty 60A suddenly wasn’t working on my only 3s pack, but was fine on 2s. It seems the connections were dirty on that 3s, the 60A started working fine again with it after cleaning them up. I guess maybe is was arcing a bit on full power on my last try.