Time to go LiPo?

[Andyrt200 201]

On 26/04/2016 at 7:22 PM, Nitomor said:

These ones are soldered which I think helps (by modelsport on the 860 esc's). I'll have to keep an eye on the connectors with twin motor rigs, 3 of those esc's are going on Dual Hunters and 1 on my Bullhead. The rest are for my Hornet, a vintage Hilux and a spare.

I can empathise with the kids saving thing. But if they had their way, they'd prioritise and spend it on itunes vouchers and the like, by buying it for them they can still learn the value of money with other things, at least you're broadening their world a bit outside of the digital world with a nice clean family friendly hobby and get them away from the electronic stuff. It's precious moments at this age and its a great way to spend a fun few hours. I've upgraded my kids cars slowly over the last 3 years, waterproof metal geared servo, waterproof receiver balloons, bodyshells, bearings, nimh 4500mah (waste of money) now lipos and esc's x2 kids. Hopefully that'll be it for the big expense but they should have really capable and reliable basher rigs to maximise the fun factor now.

Like L'oreal...it's worth it

I think!!

 

I spent ages thinking about either getting a Dual Hunter or a front gear box for my Blackfoot Xtream, then on a whim got the Clod instead! How does the Dual Hunter compare to your Bullhead? I'm still thinking of getting one instead of a crawler. 

I fitted HXT 4mm connectors to my Cold & the brusless ESC, simply because the hobbyking batteries came with those fittings:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283

They are a bit of a pain to solder though as any solder that escapes has to be carefully filed off before the pins will clip into the holder. 

The other cars are sticking with the gold tamiya type ones for now as I want to still be able to run old nimhs too, the hornet lasts ages anyway!

[Nitomor 2122]

The Dual Hunter and Bullhead are incomparable, I think the Dual Hunter is miles better as a basher, but if you already have the extreme, it's much the same, in fact my favourite basher is my brushless WT01 same as your extreme, although it has had quite a few simple to do mods to get it where it is. The Bullhead is far too heavy and fragile to do much with apart from driving over the kids cars lol!

 

[Nobbi1977 1793]

I think the single engine cars handle and jump much better than the dual engine ones. Best to have one or two of each though...

[Nitomor 2122]

I'd agree, especially in Brushless guise it flies, but for kids the twin motor model stops far quicker and handles a little more predictably, probably the extra weight helps resist rollover better too.

 

 

 

 

[Nobbi1977 1793]

18 hours ago, Nitomor said:

I'd agree, especially in Brushless guise it flies, but for kids the twin motor model stops far quicker and handles a little more predictably, probably the extra weight helps resist rollover better too.

 

 

 

 

Good point. I think the lighter LiPo packs do not help roll over. A good heavy NiMh between the wheels kept it on the ground

[Andyrt200 201]

Ah WT01 I couldn't remember what they were called, yes it's a very good basher takes all kind of punishment, just the alloy front shock mount needed really to keep it all together. Maybe I will have to get a twin motor one try then.

I wanted to try that new model sport battery before changing the plug to my HXTs so I cut a Deans off an old broken ESC & crimped one of my gold Tamiya connectors  to run it in the Super Blackfoot (also a very good basher with small mods) just a silver can in short grass & the deans was hot to the touch & the Tamiya fine! 

[Nitomor 2122]

I use deans plugs with e-tronix deans to tamiya converters and run esc's with tamiya plugs on all my brushed silver can cars and not had any heating on any of the plugs. On the Brushless I just run deans connectors, and even on my dual brushless WT01 running off a single battery with a calculated 20 amps running through it, it has never heated up. The most I've had is a slightly tepid lipo on the dual rig, and a hot silver can on a big wheeled buggy running in the kitchen with constant forward/reverse but fine in the field but connectors have always been fine. There are differing quality deans plugs out there so maybe one to watch. I used the Logic RC ones which have been fine and etronix/tamiya converters. I'm only running 2S mind.

I wonder how much of a bearing (pun intended) bearings have, as well as type of esc, wiring thickness and quality of crimping/soldering and of course gearing with regards to heat build up. I hear soldering of the plugs rather than crimping can make a big difference.

On the WT01, the rwd is my go to basher, cheaper to upgrade, lighter, faster, more chuckable, better front suspension geometry, longer battery life however decent shocks/towers and metal gear servo are musts imho. I run a heavy metal geared Futaba 3306 jumbo servo at the front of mine which gives some needed weight to quell wheelies and help stability, Nobbi's right about the low cog weight of the nimh giving better stability than the infinitely lighter lipo. For kids not using brushless, then I prefer the WR01 (I don't know where this designation came from for the twin motor variant - can't see it on any Tamiya literature only dealer stuff) which is more user friendly for kids, gives more torque, all terrain go anywhere driving, great stoppies for emergency braking! and better all round stability but the trade off is extra weight in impacts, which the lighter WT01 fares better with.

 

 

[Truck Norris 2237]

Something I wasn't aware of until recently is that Deans is the brand, and "Ultra Plug" is the connector type:

So unless it's made by Deans, it's an off-brand clone. As always, some of these are better than others and a bit of research will show that some people have had heat issues with non genuine connectors. I'm now sticking with the real thing, it's more expensive, but when it comes to electrics it's probably a good idea not to skimp!

[Pintopower 1456]

On 4/26/2016 at 6:22 AM, cjsid said:

Tbh you are possibly better changing the Tamiya connectors at the esc , heard some stories of Tamiya connectors melting running LIpo

Thought my hatred for those molex (Tamiya) connectors has no bounds, the only reason for those to melt is current and not voltage. I have melted so many of those in my day that it is ridiculous. I run all deans connectors in my cars but I have a few older, rarer speed controls with tamiya connectors that I will not cut off. I use those adapters and make sure the connection is tight as well as add a touch of dielectric grease. In my case, once the adapter is installed, it may never come off again. Still, as long as current draw is acceptable and the connection is tight, Tamiya plugs are fine.