CC-01 running Fastrax Kong 96mm Crawler Tyres

[Andyrt200 201]

I want some new wheels & tyres for my CC-01, after reading through old posts I see 96mm would be a good size for me I found these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-kong-90mm-crawler-tyres-on-1.9-bead-protector-wheels-2-black/rc-car-products/369355 a while ago I like the look of (it's the newer lexen Pajero body so I want some more modern style wheels) but they have been out of stock for ages. 

Then it occurred to me to look on eBay where of course the is a huge range, doh! 

So I was wandering if the sets of 4 from China that cost just less than the 2 in that link are any good? I can see the tyres look almost the same but are very slightly different, the outer lugs are filled in on the Chinese versions. Also they come with screws to hold the bead locks on rather than the cap head that are in the link. Cap head ( Allen key heads) do look much better. But I'm not sure if it's worth twice the price, any thoughts? Possible import duty is a consideration, though I'd hope not on such a low value item but it will be a much larger package than it small alloy hop ups I've had with out duty before.

Also there is loads of good information on tyre size for clearance but I've not seen anything about the effect of larger diameter tyres on the gearing. I was running the stock wheels and tires & 540 with 16 tooth pinion, I've just swapped to a 35T motor so I'm  hoping the new 96 mm tires it will now be just a bit slower but still climb hills well.

I'm just slightly bothered because I put some 102 dia tyres on my thunder shot & stuck in my old 50t motor thinking it may be good but it burnt out the motor (I forget the size of pinion but it was the smallest) it ran with a 12t brushless motor fine with those tyres but was stupidly fast so it's back with stock size wheels now & I'll stick with the CC-01 for proper off roading (at least till the GF-01 is finished then we'll see if that's any good at it)  

[Illogical 141]

To be as close to stock as possible on a CC-01, you need the 90mm tires. I'm bidding on a set  right now from Ebay seller "Hobbysoul". Mine will be going on the Unimog (as long as I win, fingers crossed).

Looking at mine I think 96mm will be very close to rubbing the body or arches on the rear, but front should be fine.

I run a 55T motor and it's fast enough on the standard tires (which are 88mm) so 96mm will be significanty faster - your top speed may actually increase.

[Supercoolnothing 721]

96mm tyres do fit the cc01 chassis pretty easily, I've got a set of absima steelhammers on my landfreeder just now. All I had to do was trim the bodyshell wheel arches a tiny bit with the dremel. 

[Illogical 141]

Those Absima wheels are identical to the Kongs discussed here judging by the pictures online.

[Andyrt200 201]

12 hours ago, Illogical said:

Those Absima wheels are identical to the Kongs discussed here judging by the pictures online.

They do indeed. This was the first thing that came up when I searched them http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=376131&gclid=CLe8yd6ktM8CFUco0wod_0cKoA

infact that is the exact tread pattern of the ones from China I'd found on eBay (I won't put the eBay link as they stop working after a short while). They have the small block towards the outside of the tread filled in. 

 

I found a seller on eBay who had the exact wheels & tyres from my first post but he couldn't give me any good reason why two of them cost the same as four from China (I'm sure they are all made there anyway). So I'll just order the cheeper ones! 

[Illogical 141]

Maybe the thread pattern was changed at some point or some sizes use a different pattern to others. I'm sure they will all be from the same factory and as such have the same compound and quality.

I won my auction so I'm hoping to see them in the post in the next week or two - I'm hoping they fit nicely on the original Unimog wheels.

[Andyrt200 201]

4 hours ago, Illogical said:

Maybe the thread pattern was changed at some point or some sizes use a different pattern to others. I'm sure they will all be from the same factory and as such have the same compound and quality.

I won my auction so I'm hoping to see them in the post in the next week or two - I'm hoping they fit nicely on the original Unimog wheels.

Hope you get yours soon then. 

I've heard the unimog looks better with the stock sized tyres so they should work well for you. I'd imagine they will fit OK on your rims.

[Illogical 141]

I got mine just before the weekend. Today was the first run out on them and they are very grippy - I didn't glue them but they will have to be glued. They are so soft they come off the standard wheels on turns.

Unfortunately they are a bit wide for the Unimog, so the scale look isn't what it was. 

Still a good product for the money.

[Andyrt200 201]

Mine came yesterday too. The bead locks look like they will do a very good job of holding the tyres on. I put some insulation tape over the breather holes inside the wheels in a attempt to keep the water out, sponge inserts & muddy water don't mix too well. I only used tape just incase air is forced out of one some how you can end up with a "flat tyre" I hope I can just poke the tape up to let air back in if that happens, time will tell! 

The inner bead lock on the fronts needs some clearancing to clear but it looks like it should all fit quite well. I'll try to get some pics up once it's all together. 

Glad to hear your finding them grippy. 

[Andyrt200 201]

Stock wheels did look good

But the new ones do look better, pic in the next post.

 

They just rub on my front mud guards, but clear the body ok, again the pic is at the end of the next post.

I'll just space the shocks down a little to stop the rub & give a little more ground clearance. I did the clearance mod on the front suspension parts to give me an extra 5mm of travel before the wheels came, I found it actually gave 3mm more travel with the standard shocks in there normal place. 

 

Here's a very quick vid https://youtu.be/i4qCyyEGGSU

My phone ran out of memory before I could get any more, he did get it up to the top of those rocks after (it's not where he later crashed). Ideally it needs the front cutting off, but I think I need to put the standard bumper back on really as he tends to ram it up if it won't get up first time, that aluminium plate is already flattened back!

 

The wheels & tyres work very well, my six year old boy said they're Awesome! With the 35T motor in there I didn't notice any difference in top speed, which is good as the 35T give the perfect top speed with out it rolling over all the time when turning with the locked diffs (with open diffs the inside wheels spin slowing it down on turns). They do grip very well it drove up a very steep slippery slope non of the other cars have made it up but getting up it took him by surprise (& me!) so he crashed at the top & snapped something in the rear axle so it only has one wheel drive at the back now. 

Annoying as I've only just put the rear axle back together after the M2 bolts came lose & made the whole thing cease up, note M2 screw / bolt head snapped off in diff case there & the other on the way out. I made sure they were done up tight as six year olds can't be expected to be able to...

So use thread lock on CC-01 diff cases!

Edited October 23, 2016 by Andyrt200
Putting in pics that work

[Illogical 141]

For some reason I can't see any of your pics.

Did you space the rear diff with a couple of spare kit bearings? If you don't it will rub on the case. Sorry to hear about the broken parts inside the diff - if only one halfshaft turns it could be the splines on the other shaft are stripped - I don't think the shaft would snap.

[Andyrt200 201]

9 hours ago, Illogical said:

For some reason I can't see any of your pics.

Did you space the rear diff with a couple of spare kit bearings? If you don't it will rub on the case. Sorry to hear about the broken parts inside the diff - if only one halfshaft turns it could be the splines on the other shaft are stripped - I don't think the shaft would snap.

Yes I've had a look now, the splines have stripped out of the diff gears, the shafts are fine.

Although I'd sealed the joining faces of the rear axle it was clear it had got very wet inside. The softer alloy of the diff had corroded quite a bit, I suspect it may have weekend the splines in the diff cogs. I've ordered all new soft metal parts for it. I think I'll try packing it with something like LM grease (as I use it on 1:1 wheel bearings) at least down where the drive shafts run, packing it round the diff may cause too much resistance. 

The suspension is still the stock at the rear, I do intend lifting it but it didn't catch on the one run it had.

I'll have to check the permissions on those pic links on the PC I can't see them on my phone either. I'll upload a couple here:

[Illogical 141]

I put CV joint grease in my rear diff - it seems to work well. It doesn't appear to attack the plastic at all - I presumed that if it doesn't break down your average CV boot it should be fine for Tamiya plastics. I wasn't too worried about creating fricton as mine is hardly fast anyway on a 55T motor, so I put ample grease in there.

It looks like your CC-01 is being used as intended - they are certainly tough. Mine went under a 1:1 car last weekend (dozy Kia driving granny) and got scraped along the cul-de-sac for a few meters - the only damage was some bent chassis posts, a short rear link popped off and the polycarbonate is scratched up and dented around the A-Pillar.   A bit of a shame for the shell as I'd put some effort into it, but at least it wasn't totalled. 

I also fitted the aluminium steering links same as you - together with the aluminium bellcrank it really sorts out the steering.

I'm having some wear lately on the rear lower spring mount to axle case - the long axle links no longer seem to locate so well on the balljoints and they don't seem as stiff as they were either - they're now acting like a leaf spring. Sometimes the movement pushes the lower spring mount up on the suspension rod end - it's annoying as apart from new links or an expensve 4-link upgrade there's not much that can be done.

[Andyrt200 201]

I know what you mean about the effort going into the bodies, my slow reply is because every spare second has been going into the new GF-01s body, silly really when I know it's probably going to end up looking like the CC-01 soon. Although the main reason the CC-01 look so trashed is locked diffs & having had the stock 27T motor for the last year, it just rolled over all time, but then having later locked the front diff we discovered when it ended up on its side it could spin it's self round till it was back on its wheels!

 

The stock rear suspension is rubbish, I noticed it flexing as you said like a leaf spring from the first go, so I ordered a 4 link kit along with the new ball raced steering link kit from China on eBay. It wasn't too much, but there are quite a few posts of people making their own 4 links for even less. 

Sounds like the grease in the rear axle should be good then, I was thinking of the rubber seals on the wheel bearing, but you're right CV joint grease may be better. 

I gave up with the old links to pics & edited my old post, here's the last missing pic along with one of the mess my diff is in for the second time (hopefully packing with grease will keep the new parts in better condition when they come) you can just see the splines all gone inside the diff there.

 

[Jason1145 3986]

Has anyone built a street runner of these recently and put a fast motor in one? Would the diffs hold up to brushless power even if the chassis isn't built for speed?

Love the Pajero btw, thinking I will order this lexan shell any day now.

[jupitertwo 1484]

1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Has anyone built a street runner of these recently and put a fast motor in one? Would the diffs hold up to brushless power even if the chassis isn't built for speed?

Love the Pajero btw, thinking I will order this lexan shell any day now.

I'm in the process of doing that, I've a Pajero lowrider that I'm going to try out. I've done a minor test and there was some complaining, but I've been in and shimmed the diffs a bit better since. Waiting for the SkyRC to appear before I give it any more pain, just in case I only get one run

[Jason1145 3986]

Cool Jupiter I think you will be the first to enter a CC-01 onto the speed list if it all holds up, best of luck!

I saw that Lowrider kit and it looks ok, just wheels and tyres, shock oil, to lower the chassis mainly and a higher 20t pinion?

The stock gearbox accepts 16t and 20t, but there is a Tamiya Hop up 54665 that will accept 16t - 20t pinions.... that would be a great addition to varying the speeds and motor temps.

 

[Andyrt200 201]

1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Has anyone built a street runner of these recently and put a fast motor in one? Would the diffs hold up to brushless power even if the chassis isn't built for speed?

Love the Pajero btw, thinking I will order this lexan shell any day now.

Thanks, I love the street version too:

http://www.goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/tamiya-58627-mitsubishi-pajero-black-special-cc01-black-painted-body-rc-car-kit-custom-without-esc-p-59290.html

With the smaller dia tyres & lowering kits I'd guess it would be a bit less prone to rolling over, but with the stock wheels tyres & ride hight on mine it was terrible for rolling over when cornering. The locked diff doesn't help, open diffs just start spinning the inside wheels as it leans so it slows its self down. Also the locked diffs seem to break bits of the drive train much more then open I've found on all my cars. So if you keep out if deep water & leave both diffs open I'm sure you'd be fine.

If you like lights, I got some of these for the main front ones I need to fit, just wish I'd remembered to mask off where they go before I painted the shell!

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/79454-led-light-buckets-stock-3rd-party-diy-for-your-rc/#comment-627883

Now the shell is rather battered I don't bother taking it off to change the battery, being lexan it bends out of the way no problem & hasn't caused any extra damage to the shell. So having light wires running to it will be less of a pain.

[Andyrt200 201]

2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Love the Pajero btw, thinking I will order this lexan shell any day now.

It did look a lot better when it was first built!

It came with the decals & parts from the other kits so there is flexibility how it's finished. 

 

[Jason1145 3986]

Great, I can finally see a Pajero with those crafty rear body mounts sticking out the back of the shell! I need to buy those when I run that Pajero shell as my Landfreeder uses different mounts.

And with smaller tyres the top speed would be reduced but yes the lower cog will help be a daily car park basher and be more stable.

I don't plan on crawling mine so hopefully won't need to get too involved in the endless mode that can fine with these, it's a minefield reading up on this CC01.

Open diffs for me please, but nice to finally have a CC01 as I've always lusted after this odd shaped chassis and have a crawler in my armour art at last.

[Illogical 141]

I locked the rear diff and left the front open - you can brake into the corner to transfer the weight to the front then power on and the rear will swing round, greatly reducing the turning circle.

I have a CC-01 lowering kit spare if you need it - with or without the chrome wheels and tires.

[Jason1145 3986]

19 minutes ago, Illogical said:

I locked the rear diff and left the front open - you can brake into the corner to transfer the weight to the front then power on and the rear will swing round, greatly reducing the turning circle.

I have a CC-01 lowering kit spare if you need it - with or without the chrome wheels and tires.

How do you have a spare lowering kit????? Too many CC-01's????

[Illogical 141]

It came fitted on an Ebay purchase (also new) but I removed it. The wheels are nice and shiny but I prefer original ride height.

[Andyrt200 201]

3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Great, I can finally see a Pajero with those crafty rear body mounts sticking out the back of the shell! I need to buy those when I run that Pajero shell as my Landfreeder uses different mounts.

You can see them better here. He built the whole chassis him self (under my supervision), just needing me to do up the screws for him as they are to hard for a 6 year old. I can still remember struggling to do them up on my first, a Hornet at 10 years old, that was quite a long time ago!

[Jason1145 3986]

Ha Star Wars and RC cars, wish I was 6 years old with my own CC-01 lol!

This puts me to shame as I bought my CC-01 ready built 2nd hand and when I look at it and the build manual online I'm glad I didn't build it haha... am sure Zi could just it looks more time consuming that my usual build ( DT-02, WR-02c and WT-01 so far).

ive got a Cc01 lowering kit inbound too now.