Newbie questions to set-up Tamiya Wild One

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi All,

This is my first post here. I have spent some time looking at posts and especially viewing the pictures on the forum. A lot of you guys really take some nice shots of your cars! I have just ordered a Tamiya Wild One for my son which I'll build for him and I think my daughter will be keen on the hobby too so I think there'll be one for her in the future and me too no doubt! As a kid I always wanted one and had a friend with a Hornet which I spent plenty of time watching HIM drive!

I'd like to set them up with LiPo batteries for increased run times and would also like to get waterproof components if possible.

Having not built an RC car before I wanted to know some things which I think will be mostly straight forward but I can't seem to find easy or black and whie answers so please help if you can.

1. Servos. Are servos all a standard size with standard electrical terminals?

2. If I bought a waterproof receiver, how do you make sure it's compatable with your transmitter? I'm aware of crystals used in the past but wasn't sure if modern 2.4ghz systems had crystals or any similar system.

3. Initially I'd like to use the stock ESC. IS this ok with LiPo's? Can this later be used with brushless if we went that way?

4. Is there a standard battery size system like there is for regular batteries eg. AA, AAA etc...? From looking at some of the posts it seems there is only a small amount of space in the wild one for bateries and I'd want to make sure and get the right thing.

5.I see there are waterproof componants but how do batteries and motors cope with getting wet?

6. Lastly, can anyone recommend a transmitter that is easier for small hands? My kids are 4 and 8 years old.

Many thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Damo.

[taliesin 260]

Welcome aboard!

1. Most of the servos are a standard size - just avoid mini or micro servos. If in doubt, post the brand & model and someone can confirm.

2. Best to stick with the receiver of the same brand as your transmitter although some mismatches may work. Some don't.

3. The stock ESC isn't set up for Lipo and cannot handle brushless. You can run Lipo but there isn't any cutoff device and you can easily ruin your expensive Lipo batteries by over-discharging. The TEU series ESC are good to about 25 turns or a sport tuned motor only and are not waterproof.

4. Yes and no. There is a "standard" stick pack size - just not very. Most Lipos will not fit in most older Tamiya models. There are several threads here about Lipo fitment and there are some that work. Most Nimh stick packs fit fine but Lipos are just a bit too long in my experience. I haven't found any that are available where I live to fit the Wild One, but I'm still looking ....

5. Lipos don't like water. Nimh packs and most motors do fine with getting wet. I generally operate on the "water resistant" rather than "water proof" theory. It is fairly simple to make your set up water resistant, but if you want to drive your rig at the bottom of a swimming pool it takes a fair bit of effort and maintenance. Not my cup of tea, but it can be done.

6. Can't help you with the last one, but I saw a thread about this within the last year or so and you can probably find it pretty quick with a search. Either in general or electronics I think...?

Nice to have you here and I hope you and the kids have a blast with the Wild One. Great choice and a solid, fun model.

As with my tag line, I would be remiss if I didn't advise you to immediately bin the stock Tamiya pinion gear and buy a steel replacement. The stock alloy gear is a time-bomb just waiting to destroy your gear box and they wear out very quickly. Spend the $3 and buy a steel one and you'll be good to go for the lifetime of the model without any worries. I like Robinson Racing brands but there are others depending upon where you live. I refuse to drive with the stock pinion -- one ruined gearbox was quite enough for me, thank you.

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi Taliesin,

Thanks for your response. We aren't looking for totally waterproof but if the kids can roar through some light puddles I'd rather I didn't have to cringe as they did so! I'll definately get steel pinions and full bearing sets to start with. Parts seem pretty reaonably priced on the whole so that helps. I did see a post in the Re-Re- category showing some minor dremel work to make room for LiPo's and I'm happy to make this sort of mod. I just think the kids would enjoy the longer running time that LiPos provide and I'm ok with fitting the Low Voltage Cutoff required. As I'm sure we'll end up with three Wild Ones in the house painted different colours, I'll get three of everything parts wise when I start. We live at the beach so it's going to be great fun getting out there! Obviously maintenance will be key to keeping these things going well with the salt air and sand in this environment. Good for the kids to learn how to look after things though and how to lubricate etc...

Cheers,
Damo

[Gruntfuggly 562]

No need to hack the chassis - I've got Lipos that fit in a Wild One - Turnigy 4000mah 2s packs. They don't seem to be available any more but there are newer packs of more or less the same dimensions - if you want i'll measure them for you and you can get something similar - hobbyking have excellent deals on lipos - top tip: leave your browser open on a product page and after a while the page will offer you a further discount 8-)

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi,

The dimensions would help me yes please. I see on the Hobbyking site the hard cased packs are 135x45x21mm. If this would fit the hard case certainly appeals. I will try and read some info today about the 'C' rating to figure out how that works then I might be able to make a decision. Any thoughts on the best 'C' rating for the standard 540 motor?

Cheers,

Damo.

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

Wouldn't worry about spare parts if you are just running silver cans, especially on the beach, shouldn't break too easily.

I don't own a WO but I am sure some members here will tell you the weak points on this chassis.

If you go brushless or 3s lipo, you will start to break things, and wear out tyres faster than you can order them. :D

[SteveU30 1011]

I wouldn't get too hung up on the C rating if you're only running mild motors. Even a budget 4000mAh LiPo with a C rating of 25 will deliver 100A (4x25) which is more than enough for a silver can. Your yardstick is 60A which is what most standard ESCs are rated at.

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi All,

I did find these LiPos online:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21004__Turnigy_4000mAh_2S_30C_hardcase_pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

It's measurements are under what I have read in other posts as being able to fit into an SRB chassis so I'd guess this will fit into a Wild One? 135 x 45 x 21mm.

I also found these transmitters at dollarhobbyz.com:

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/hpi-1-5-baja-5b-flux-brushless-tf-20u-2-ch-transmitter-rf-30-receiver.html

Does anybody know the deal here? They seem very cheap on some things and mention 'disassembly' which I just presume means they took the radios out of an RTR set. Good deal though?

What about these servos they have?

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/traxxas-1-10-monster-jam-trucks-2056-high-torque-waterproof-servo.html

Again they seem too good to be true price-wise.

Sorry for all the questions guys but I am really appreciative of your help!

Cheers,

Damo.

[backtomyroots 432]

Radio, buy one with digital adjustments, not analog or "dial". Great economical options at Hobby King:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24905__Turnigy_3XS_FHSS_2_4GHz_3_Channel_Radio_System.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23165__Turnigy_GTX3_AFHDS_2_4ghz_3_Channel_Radio_System.html

I use both.

The receiver can be stuffed inside a regular blow up balloon and zip tied closed or you can use a Traxxas receiver box:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXDT7&P=ML

Economically speaking, just stuff it in a balloon.

Servo - doesn't need to be "waterproof" if you just plan on splashing quickly through puddles. But t be safe several options exist, most economically is the Traxxas one:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTKL0&P=ML

Battery - Traxxas Waterproof Lipos fit, I used one no problem in my Wild One:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLMY&P=7

Charger:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLNM&P=7

Other options also exist for a charger but this is a great economical all purpose one.

The initial battery charger purchase is expensive but then you have them for future cars !

You can purchase waterproof brushless combinations of speed controller and motor for great prices ! I ran a brushless combo in mine with no problems, greater run times and better running.

Just don't go too high in the motor.

I would use a Turnigy combo:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25138__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A.html

Others an recommend the best "kv" if this is too much.

Also order a full ball bearing kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-Ball-Bearing-Set-TAMIYA-58525-Wild-One-Off-Roader-13-PCS-/360473564676?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ede61604

I've used or purchased every product I've linked to, please take the time to consider them.

Mine:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=115362&sid=7434

[tamiya monkey 243]

Hi SlotcarNZ, the Wildone is a great buggy, i have the fav and intending on getting the Wo to sit along side it. As for batteries make sure where the leads come out will suite your battery compartment.

[Gruntfuggly 562]

Oops - forgot about this. The pack I use in my Wild One is 134x44x21mm - a little bit snug cos' the leads come out of the top of the pack, but it does fit...

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi All,

Thanks for this help. Backtomyroots, I have looked up all those items and appreciate the time you took to help. I like the look of the Turnigy radio set you mentioned. I also like the idea of the brushless system and I think we'll upgrade to that in the future but initially we'll use the motor and ESC in the box.

The Wild One I ordered arrived last week and I have been going through the box looking at the parts. I must say, I am impressed at the quality look and feel of everything. This one is for my son but good news, my wife said she'd like to buy me a Wild One for my birthday so I'm about to order another. It's not my birthday until September so unfortunately I can't start building for a while! I'll paint each one up in different colours. I'm sure my son will enjoy picking a colour for his! No doubt my daughter will love it too so I'd imagine Wild One number three arriving before Christmas.

I'll be sure to post pictures of my progress when I get started.

Just one more thing though, I am struggling to find the right replacement pinion gear. I read that it needs to be 0.8Mod which is close to 32 pitch. I of course don't understand these details but I take it that 32 pitch is close but not exactly right. Has anyone got a link for a steel pinion that is exactly spot on? I guess I'd prefer 15T as opposed to 18T as the kids (and I) won't initially be needing the speed whilst we are learning.

Cheers,

Guys.

[BigSteve 149]

Hi All,

Thanks for this help. Backtomyroots, I have looked up all those items and appreciate the time you took to help. I like the look of the Turnigy radio set you mentioned. I also like the idea of the brushless system and I think we'll upgrade to that in the future but initially we'll use the motor and ESC in the box.

The Wild One I ordered arrived last week and I have been going through the box looking at the parts. I must say, I am impressed at the quality look and feel of everything. This one is for my son but good news, my wife said she'd like to buy me a Wild One for my birthday so I'm about to order another. It's not my birthday until September so unfortunately I can't start building for a while! I'll paint each one up in different colours. I'm sure my son will enjoy picking a colour for his! No doubt my daughter will love it too so I'd imagine Wild One number three arriving before Christmas.

I'll be sure to post pictures of my progress when I get started.

Just one more thing though, I am struggling to find the right replacement pinion gear. I read that it needs to be 0.8Mod which is close to 32 pitch. I of course don't understand these details but I take it that 32 pitch is close but not exactly right. Has anyone got a link for a steel pinion that is exactly spot on? I guess I'd prefer 15T as opposed to 18T as the kids (and I) won't initially be needing the speed whilst we are learning.

Cheers,

Guys.

Go for a RW Racing steel pinion. 32 pitch will be fine, I use one in my re re wild one with no issues.

Steve.

[taliesin 260]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX00&P=7

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Awesome, thank you. That was the last piece of the puzzle!

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi All,

I am progressing well on the first Wild One build now and I must say I am really impressed at how these things go together and the overall ease. Only tough thing so far has been cutting the Lexan! I'll be doing two more after this one for the kids so I'm sure I'll get better at it by number 3. I haven't painted it yet but I will have paint arrive tomorrow. My father has a panel beating supply business so he's mixed up 3 metallic colours with some bumper flex additive for me. Should be a fun weekend!

I am yet to buy radios and like the look of the Turnigy 3XS. I need to buy three and would like to know if there is anywhere else I can get them apart from Hobbyking? So far I am not impressed by their customer service (lack of). They don't seem to reply to email at all so I'd rather support anyone else!

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards,

Damo.

[alfagta 126]

Hi,

Hobbyking customer service is poor at best, I still use them, I just buy what I need and contact them via live chat if I have an issue, which was only once in 38 orders, and I will say that the help I got was spot on, if you have product questions just use the customer forum at the bottom of each product listing page, it's an odd way of doing things but they millions of people that use them and I haven't been let down by them yet,

If you just don't want to go down the HK route then you can find turnigy stuff on ebay too,

Have fun

[Zac_F83 117]

I would say for a first timer - don't go gung ho in with lipo's and brushless setups - the TEU-104 will handle a 20T brushed motor no problem in the light weight Wild One or Fast Attack Vehicle - I have run 15T short coarse truck motors on them in TT01 on road cars..

I like to use Traxxas electronics - XL2.5/ XL5 ESC- they're water proof not water resistant like brushless ESC's - Traxxas also makes great 2.4ghz radio systems as well as servo's - I use 2070 and 2075 servo's with great luck (the 2075 is water proof - both have same specs (125oz/in @6v) - plus great customer service from Traxxas as well

I would run 7.2 5000mah NIMH 6 cells to get you started with high current connectors- they will last around 15-20 minutes with a 23t or so motor but again the WO and FAV are pretty light so you may get more out of them - I run a Duratrax Photon Speed 20t motor in most my RC's - it's the cheapest one I can find at $12US - the HPI 15t's are $18 currently - Traxxas Stinger 20t is $18 12t/21t 550 are $26

To get a lipo to fit the FAV/WO- you need special packs that look/shaped like a 7.2 NIMH 6 cell battery

[SlotcarNZ 2]

I did buy Turnigy LiPos that fit well already and I will be using the standard motors with steel 15T pinions which I've bought. I have waterproof servos already too. I have bought three of each and the first car is now almost finished being painted, I'm just waiting for some matt clear coat to finish the the chassis and roll bars with. It's looking pretty good for a first model ever! It's just the radios and charger that I need now. I just really struggle with buying from companies that offer no customer service! I guess it might be my only option though?

My car which is almost done is metallic blue with matt silver roll bars and wheels, my son's will be next and will be metallic green with metallic charcoal roll bars and wheels, then my daugthers car will be metallic violet with matt white roll bars and wheels. Each car will have a matt finish to the chassis sides to contrast to the glossy body finish. I want to get some numbers to place on the cars too but will need custom ones to get three different, our birthdays most likely. I'm not sure yet as to how to go about that yet but next time I'm at the printers I'll see if they can do it in a suitable material.

So far the painting has been a good learning experience and I have found some parts hard to get the paint to stick too even with a light sand and adhesion promoter. Last night I peeled some masking off the head lamps and it pulled up half of the paint underneath so they'll have to be done again from scratch!

Cheers,

Damo.

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Can someone answer a quick question please? When setting up the receiver, ESC etc..., is it normal for there to be braking applied when you first push the trigger from acceleration and into reverse? I mean, braking and not reverse until you release and re-push the trigger? I ask as I am now looking at the Futaba 3prka transmitters and there is no mention of it in their specs. I do like the simplicity of the unit though and the light weight for the kids. I just didn't want the to be able to switch from full forwards to full reverse in an instant and break anything.

Cheers,

Damo.

[XV Pilot 1936]

Yes this is normal, and it is a function of the ESC, not the transmitter, so you won't find it in the transmitter specs.

Some specialist ESCs designed for crawling and/or drifting have the ability to go straight from forwards to reverse without braking first, and some ESCs have the ability to turn this feature on and off, but the vast majority brake first then go into reverse by default, either after a time delay or when the stick/trigger is double-tapped.

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Thanks XV Pilot that helps a lot. I'll probably get the Futaba tx's then due to their lightness and also I think that a lot of electronics and features packed into something as cheap as the Turnigy GTX3 is more likely to fail over time.

You guys have all been awesome helping me out with my questions, I do appreciate it and I will add some pics soon.

Cheers,
Damo.

[alfagta 126]

Yes most esc's have 'double tap reverse but there are a few esc s that go straight to reverse , usually you have to select it when setting up, withe the default being forward brake reverse, it will be in the manual for your particular esc

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi, I saw in the manual about deactivating reverse but not anything about the braking/reverse effect. Sounds like it'll be good though. I'm just desparately waiting on some clear coat to arrive to finish the wheels, roll bars and chassis so that I can finish the build. Seeing as it needs to be surface freighted to me it's taking a long time!

My sons birthday is on Tuesday and he'll get his own Wild One then, I can't wait to see his reaction! He'll be four so I hope he big enough to handle the controls. We have another RC car here, a cheap giveaway one which has similar pistol transmitter and he can handle that in his own way so he'll be ok I'm sure.

Cheers,

Damo.

[SlotcarNZ 2]

Hi All,

I have taken a few shots to show you my car, now finished! I had it on the beach for it's first run yesterday with the kids. I am amazed at how easy it was to drive, albeit in an open space. Even my 4 year old son was ok driving it and my 7 year old daughter too. Here are the pics:

So after this experience, my first RC build, I am really impressed. It all went smoothly, the cars looks good and goes great! I have found that the paint is hard to get to stock to the roll bars but that's ok I like the used look for things I actually use. I have 4000mah Turnigy hardcase LiPo's for these and they seem to last really well and fit in the space well too. I have the low voltage buzzer attached with velcro tape beside the driver. I am really impressed with the Imax B6 charger I bought too seems to be a very smart piece of kit.

I have started building Wild One number 2 for my son and did have a paint issue where the paint reacted with the lexan badly and trying to clean it off with thinners made it even worse. Not sure how to fix it yet but I think I'll try my airbrush sander to clean up the surface the polish with an extremely fine steel wool, followed by some plastic polishing compound and see if I can start again.

Cheers,

Damo.