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FAV based Chenowth Sand Rail

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So I wasn't sure where to put this build thread as it could go in the Re-Re or Vintage section. Mods please move if you think it better suited somewhere else.

The next project on the cards for me is a Chenowth Sand Rail. The inspiration for this project came from Kevin Jowett and Wrencher (Chris) over on ScaleBuildersGuild.com (SBG). Kevin and Chris teamed up to create what has to be the best scale Sand Rail to date. Based on the SRB chassis it was so awesome I talked Chris into making me one with a few tweaks so I could make a replica too.

Kevin challenged me to not just copy Chris' hard work and just make a 3D printed copy for my next project, but to do something original. I took up that challenge and couldn't be happier with the results so far.

For this project I really wanted to focus on getting it as scale as possible but also living up to the original design philosophy of sand rails and create something that was fun to drive and cheap to build.

The first decision to use the Wild One / Fast Attack Vehicle (FAV) was based on it having both trailing arm suspension at the rear and the donor kit being half the cost of a re-re SRB chassis, Sand Scorcher. However I would have 2 big issues to contend with:

1. Whilst the front arms are of a trailing type, they aren't as scale as the SRB front suspension

2. The standard rear gearbox can be, lets say, a little unreliable.

I had an original Wild One back in the day and I still have an original runner today. They are great fun to drive once you have the gearbox sorted.

What is really great about the FAV is it is actually based on a real Chenowth sand rail. Looking at real reference you can see Tamiya did a great job replicating the rear cage almost exactly. It would also mean that if I could utilize that cage in my design, then the cost of the 3D printed cage part is quite literally, cut in half. I am also super excited about those trailing rear arms, very close to how the real 1:1 design.

Here is what I am going for:

4958859-1.jpg

So I started first on replacing the lower chassis with one created in tubes of the same Dia of the tamiya rear cage.

ScreenShot2013-12-26at101622PMcopy.jpg

After a few late nights I got to the point where I can combine the lower cage with Tamiya's part. Now it is really starting to look like something. You can just see that the steering servo is now in a new location and will require a micro servo to hide it away between the front suspension.

The seats are actually hollow allowing for a small ESC and receiver to be located and that blue blob above the seats will be where the mini LiPo sits. I understand how some feel about LiPo's so I am also going to try a version with a full size 7.2 battery pack where the seats are. This will end up looking more like the Kyosho Javelin, nowhere near as scale but would tick the "cheap to build" box better.

Kyosho Javelin where you can see the battery sticking out - Still awesome though :)

Javelin4.jpg

Image of design in CAD showing placement of main parts

ScreenShot2013-12-29at113004PM.jpg

If you want to subscribe to this Thread or like my Facebook page to get regular updates, please do so :)

https://www.facebook.com/knight.customs.RC?ref=hl

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Looking great James - can't wait to see this one progress and the parts pricing.

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Nice work James, you know my thoughts on the project.....

You mentioned above, 'once you've sorted the gearbox' what should we do there.

Bring on the updates, I'm subscribed to this thread...

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This is something I have wanted to do for years but my peak income and mindset to create projects never seemed to cross over at the right time (thankfully, my big project at the moment requires time and thinking as much as money). I really look forward to seeing this progress, You made awesome progress so far.

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Very cool looking, I'll be following this thread for sure

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I built my FAV with an extra shim in the gearbox and anti-wear grease, it has been absolutely flawless so far! :)

Love the idea and the look, cant wait to see the result!

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I have no problems seeing and appreciating the differences between this tube frame and the regular FAV/WO tub, but from a little distance and in silhouette, it will look pretty similar, especially because the FAV/WO cage is used. Don't get me wrong, I think it looks absolutely great, but knowing that the prices for your Manx body and accessories clearly have stopped quite a few people from buying despite the major differences from the Sand Rover body, I fear that a tube frame this close to the outline (for the lack of a better word) of the FAV/WO frame will have to be extremely reasonably priced for people to buy, and a low price will hardly be feasible with the current cost of 3D-printing.

And estimating sales based on people's positive responses and promises to buy is risky as people have a tendency to step back when it's time to open the wallet. I'm talking in general terms and based on quite a lot of experience from similar cases, and not about any specific person(s) in this thread or forum.

On the other hand, if you make this frame primarily or only for yourself, none of my comments matter. :-) It's just my honest opinion and friendly gesture if you really aim to sell and would like to spread cost on as many frames as possible.

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But the people who do appreciate the process as outlined here and the end result will purchase these frames anyways.

And so far, it all looks very promising!

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Thanks,

So I just got notified that the chassis is in route and should be with me for the weekend. Looking forward to building it and seeing how it looks / works.

James.

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So I just got notified that the chassis is in route and should be with me for the weekend. Looking forward to building it and seeing how it looks / works.

x 2 B) .

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Look at that beauty... I think you'll all agree this will be stunning once finished and with a little playing around on weight distribution I'm sure this will pull a wheelie or two on the beach :)

Great R & D as always James.

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Thanks guys,

Check this out. You can still fit the standard body on the car (this one is from my original WO runner). Not sure why but just wanted to see what it looked like :)

Posted Image

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That's what we like James, options :)

It might be the angle of the photo but it looks like the body flares out more than the new cage at the sides of the cockpit area...

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Steve, your right. The original WO has the side pods to accommodate the standard 7.2 battery.

James.

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Thanks for the compliments guys. @jeekelemental, it won't save weight by much I am afraid. If anything I am probably adding plastic. But Steve is right, because I am going to use smaller electronics and LiPo to power this, it does shift the CoG further back making this more likely to pop a wheelie.

James.

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James its just a thought but is there any reason why you couldn't also flare out the sides of the cockpit lower chassis area to match the original WO body ? That way you could still use a standard battery pack while still having sand rail looks ? The seats could perhaps be modified to act as a battery box and therefore hide the cell ? I realise this is FAV based but it could be another option .

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Yes, I do think that would also work, that's pretty much what the standard 7.2 battery option I talked about at the start of this thread would look like.

I want to get the version with the mini LiPo worked out first and then work back from that for a basic version that could take standard gear.

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This may be the coolest RC ever made' beating the Kyosho scorpion!

Bet this would look cool with those kubelwagen wheels you made too.

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i think this looks awesome! but how strong is the 3D-printed plastic? i can see one hard crash into a curb and it snapping... although, i might be more likely than most to smash my car into a curb. but...

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The material I use for this chassis has very similar material properties to ABS injection molded plastic. I wouldn't use it for extreme bashing but it should be able to take a few knocks. If designed right this should be just as durable as the standard chassis it replaces.

One member on TC has used the same material for suspension arms on his customs FWD race buggy, with no reported breaks after a lot of race testing. Just goes to show how tough it can be when used correctly.

James.

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