Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
AngryGoblin

New member, Old Boomer

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, I've just bought myself what will hopefully be the first of many, Tamiya Vehicles.

First up it the Boomerang. Needs some work, so any tips would be gratefully received

I've wanted many Tamiya models since i was at school in the 80's, remember going into Beatties on the way home and watching the video behind the counter :)

20150626_131244_zpsrkaijzzj.jpg

20150626_131231_zpsh6o4ced3.jpg

20150626_131301_zpsjjnjxigp.jpg

20150626_131345_zps8im5gx2g.jpg

This was described as a vintage Boomerang, so any upgrades to make it a bit better, or rebuild it as it was ?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the club. Here is a pic of my boomerang for inspiration.

CCCF21D4-6067-4146-AB2C-1F945F515EA5_zps

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, welcome to Tamiyaclub.

I would suggest get a copy of the manual, available on here or do a quick google search. Strip it down and clean it all, check for cracks in the suspension arms, these go due to being over tightened.

Spares are getting more difficult to find but come up regularly on ebay. When rebuilding go easy on the tightening to prevent cracking. Have a look at Kontemax threads and showroom he's very knowledgeable on the boomerang.

Rich

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you guys, i can see mine is missing a few parts, the roll bar thingy behind the front shock stands out for one.

Any suggestions what to clean the parts with please ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are no shortcuts to cleaning parts I'm afraid. Once the car is in parts all the plastic parts can be washed in warm soapy water and scrubbed with an old toothbrush. For metal parts I use car de greaser.

You can also wait till your wife is out the house and use the dishwasher. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ha !

Thank you, I tried the dishwasher thing a few years back on a cylinder head............

Didn't work out too well :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that's about enough for today, ill start a build thread i think, See how i get on.

A few bits missing, Very dirty, and smells of old...:)

20150626_182811_zpsc80pl7pl.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you have an after market front bumper .

Things you need to know , If you use RE RE Gearbox's , YOU need to put E-clips in to hold the out drives ,

As the Vintage Gear box has C-clips to hold the out drives in . Since the re re box has been relieved to add the E-clip ,

where the 1150 bearing is . You will see once you pull apart the gear box's , C-clip is a bug ger to get off :lol: .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few bits done today, cleaned a few parts off, and tried to clean up the wheels, im going to try and save as much of the original car that i can.

Bit of the elbow grease.

20150627_185209_zpseul1ea3w.jpg

What ya think?

Not sure if im happy with the result or not

The paint will come off, but the painted wheel will need replacing anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The bumper is an aftermarket kydex version, probably done by a company like Parma. Keep it. It's a cool period correct hop up.

Chris.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a pic of the bumper, So it's not the original?

20150627_190451_zpsnpp3huew.jpg

No it's not , but it is an aftermarket one of that time . As Fried Tyres has said .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replys guys. As im a noob at all this, can you good people recommend a ESC and motor? as the MSC and original motor are toast, also a reciever/transmitter combo?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to TC :)

The options for motor and ESC combos are endless, as its and original I wouldn't go crazy with to much power as old plastic breaks easy. A standard silver can and a Tamiya 104BK would do the job nicely. I rebuilt a boomer recently with plans on running it but it was far to old and pretty so it went straight to the self :)

As for a receiver I use a Spektrum DX3C which isn't overly expensive and is multi programmable so you can run up to 10 cars of the one remote.

Good luck with the build

Andy

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So been to work with the cleaning...

Tub has come up quite well.

20150629_175332_zpsqrnjines.jpg

And the shocks look better.

8f32ae0d-8cbd-4109-9449-aa50eb2cb6e2_zps

And it turns out that this little guy is ok, Think ill replace the gear though.

20150629_180019_zpsifdietwt.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So been to work with the cleaning...

Tub has come up quite well.

And the shocks look better.

And it turns out that this little guy is ok, Think ill replace the gear though.

Welcome! You've got quite the nice project going on there. Do you want to make it a runner or shelf queen? People go to great lengths to maintain vintage status on their display cars. Vintage parts can be spendy so I think it's often a choice between vintage shelf queen and runner.

If runner, you'll definitely want to replace the pinion. Avoid the alloy jobbers and go for steel. The alloy one are "made of cheese" as they say here. A new silver can motor goes for as low as $5 on eBay so other than nostalgia I don't see much value in keeping the old one. Spektrum transmitters are very popular here, and for good reason. If you want to keep costs down as much as possible the FlySky stuff is dirt cheap and works quite well. Here's a link to the GT2B which isn't even their lowest priced model. As far as ESC goes, you can spend as much as you like on them but the TBLE-02S is Tamiya's current boxed ESC. It can power both brushed and brushless (sensored only) motors. It's very smooth and pretty cheap. I picked one up off eBay for $20 last week. If you're sure you don't want brushless motors down the line, then consider the HobbyWing 1060 ESC. It's quite nice, a little more compact than the TBLE, is waterproof, and is LiPo compatible.

Keep posting the progress you're making on the Boomer restoration. I can't wait to see what you do about that horribly painted body shell.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.

Im going to make it as best i can, but i want it as a runner, to be taken out now and then with the other cars i plan to get. (Hornet, Frog, Grasshopper etc)

I've had quite a bit of experience with the spektrum stuff, used to have it on my R/C heli's

As for the shell......:( I think is going to have to be a replacement, ill post up another pic of it up tomorrow, it's been painted many times, It's yellow on the inside, and under that it's blue :) same for the wheels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, Here's the body..

20150630_134047_zpsnfhu7evj.jpg

20150630_134100_zpsfjlsrtan.jpg

Tyres look good, may not be original..

20150630_133858_zpsuhr8si84.jpg

Wheels have been stripped of the layers of paint.

20150630_133830_zpszbsrv8do.jpg

And there are bits arriving..

20150630_133717_zpsehdacv4t.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's easier to strip paint off ABS than it is off Lexan. That body has been badly painted both top and bottom. :o If you're not concerned about maintaining vintage-original status then I'd for sure replace that body.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fairy Power spray is great for stripping acrylic paint from ABS. although not sure how it would be on a lexan body -

I used to use it for stripping plastic miniatures, only takes about 12 hours soaking and the paint brushes off very easily. You may need about 3 bottles to soak the body though

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This little (insert choice of swear here)...........

20150630_221951_zpsjnqcu8as.jpg

Took far to long to get off..

Actually, what are the cup things called please, on of the rear gearbox one's is bent slightly. Does the Boomer share these with anything else? Hotshot, Bigwig maybe?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean the cups that exit each side of the gearbox that the dog bones then go into? Outdrives? The manual calls them gearbox joints.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean the cups that exit each side of the gearbox that the dog bones then go into? Outdrives? The manual calls them gearbox joints.

Yeah that's 'em, need to replace a couple is possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The vintage out drives are a different length than the re-re's because they use c clips, the re-re's have e clips. C clips were invented as a torture device for use in prisons, the would bring a pile of parts and make prisoners put c clips on them all day long ;) You may be able to use re-re parts and get e clips instead, but I'm not sure, someone else will hopefully chime in on that. I was able to find vintage ones easily on ebay.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The vintage out drives are a different length than the re-re's because they use c clips, the re-re's have e clips. C clips were invented as a torture device for use in prisons, the would bring a pile of parts and make prisoners put c clips on them all day long ;) You may be able to use re-re parts and get e clips instead, but I'm not sure, someone else will hopefully chime in on that. I was able to find vintage ones easily on ebay.

NO!! Re res have small cups & dog bones , The vintage have bigger cups & dog bones . You can use E-clips

on the old Vintage out drives with the New re re gearbox . It's the gear box that is different & why you have to

use the E-Clips & not C-Clip On the re re .

So if you use the vintage box , You use the C-clip on the out drives re re or vintage ones

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...