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As you all know, I'm far too busy to go searching the forums, so I need some help...

I got a Lunchbox that desperately needs building, but thought I may as well incorporate all the funky mods that need doing up front, during the build.

What would be great is if you guys could raid your faves and post up any links to worthwhile mods for the LB.

I was gonna word it as the compiling the ultimate LB FAQ, but thought that was one blag too many :rolleyes:

Any help'd be appreciated, then afterwards maybe we can do a random 'leftover' bits giveaway (if there are any bits leftover)

Cheers

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Okey dokey (and hope these links work):

Front end suspension (post below this one as I type)

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50292

3rd shock mod how to by Hellbelly

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9382&id=278

Chassis stiffening

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=56326

Prob find you'll look at it come up with your own version, lots of people do.

Check out Ed's (mymonsterbeetleisbroken) bonkers brushless Pumpkin as well just to see how fast you can make this tub go...

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I'm assuming you're starting with bearings & oil shocks anyway.

Angle your rear shocks outwards, helps with cornering, well worthwhile, especially if you're considering the FX10 front end conversion;

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...51&id=21533

Stick an RZ, TZ or BZ motor in it, next in line in the power stakes is something like a 19t spec motor, much lower & you may as well go brushless.

With more power, you can afford to stuff some extra weight low down near the back of the chassis to get the rear suspension working properly too (© TA-Mark).

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I'm assuming you're starting with bearings & oil shocks anyway.

Bearings yes, shocks have yet to be sourced.

Thanks for the links so far guys, with the impending naff weather this could be timed just right :rolleyes:

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Any idea how long the front and rear shocks need to be, eye-to-eye?

Got a bit bored lately too - probly should have built the chassis first to see it it'll fit, but they're cheap enough now if it's scrap :( ;

img169_28062009225306_4.jpg

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Cool idea for the body! It will fit on no problems like that with heaps of room to spare.

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Any idea how long the front and rear shocks need to be, eye-to-eye?

Got a bit bored lately too - probly should have built the chassis first to see it it'll fit, but they're cheap enough now if it's scrap :( ;

img169_28062009225306_4.jpg

Little Red Wagon, perhaps?

little_red_wagon3.jpg

And BTW, a while back I substituted a solid rod for the 3rd shock, which holds the slider bar for the axle halfway up the slots. It seems to get better articulation, and does much better wheelies.

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And BTW, a while back I substituted a solid rod for the 3rd shock, which holds the slider bar for the axle halfway up the slots. It seems to get better articulation, and does much better wheelies.

Another fine idea (and cheaper :o )

Little Red's for sale BTW, News Report

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Hadn't noticed this before, Lunchy pickup could be rather cool! I don't reckon you'll have any clearance issues with that shell Andy, from my experience a motor around 19turns does the job nicely :lol:

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dont forget to spray the wheels black.this is a must on the lunchbox .lol

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That's the second time wheels have been mentioned now - what are the options?

I really can't be bothered to spray em

Do WW2 wheels fit?

Just ordered some shocks for it, will prob start this over the weekend :)

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WW2 chrome ones fit if you use frog hexes on the back (note; I had to turn the axle down slightly to get them to seat properly on mine)

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WW2 chrome ones fit if you use frog hexes on the back (note; I had to turn the axle down slightly to get them to seat properly on mine)

seems like a lot of hassel and expense.

you could get chrome midnight pumpkin wheels,straight fit.

or gold chrome lunchbox wheels again straight fit.

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seems like a lot of hassel and expense.

you could get chrome midnight pumpkin wheels,straight fit.

or gold chrome lunchbox wheels again straight fit.

Just remembered the MP ones, should be here next week :)

4 NIP LB rims anyone?

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Out of interest is there a reason to fit a third shock rather than fitting a solid bar and locking it? Increase gearbox life? Stop it from doing back flips with brushless motors? None of the other monster trucks have a similar system (afaik) so I'd have thought it'd be more for launch stability rather than anything?

Am I right, or have I missed something painfully obvious?

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Out of interest is there a reason to fit a third shock rather than fitting a solid bar and locking it? Increase gearbox life? Stop it from doing back flips with brushless motors? None of the other monster trucks have a similar system (afaik) so I'd have thought it'd be more for launch stability rather than anything?

Am I right, or have I missed something painfully obvious?

If you were to lock the axle in either the lower or upper position, you'd lose the left/right 'wheel up' articulation of the rear axle, and only have up/down.

For drag racing and wheelies that's probably preferable, but for cornering it wouldn't be so great.

If you locked the rear axle at half it's travel (mid point in the slots), then you'd still get a little articulation.

The third shock allows the rear axle to pivot as 'normal', just more controlled and it's tuneable too

The wheely/torque 'flip' may also be a reason for the front travel, but the action isn't damped, so it's only (briefly) delaying the inevitable

Other trucks either have independant left/right suspension (like most modern buggies) or an articulating live/beam axle (like the Clod/Jugg/TXT) - the LB/MP is a bit of a weird one :)

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Yeah of course, that makes sense. I wonder if you could get around it by using a steering rod and ball joint instead of a shock. Best of both worlds then, or would the axle twist ("wheel up") in the corners still not be enough?

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Yeah of course, that makes sense. I wonder if you could get around it by using a steering rod and ball joint instead of a shock. Best of both worlds then, or would the axle twist ("wheel up") in the corners still not be enough?

A solid rod would affect the available articulation, as you'd need the axle halfway up the slot to allow it to travel

Too low and you'd lose travel, too high and you'd lose travel

The axle would only rotate around the ball end.

With a shock, you can set the axle at the bottom of the slot and the axle will compress the shock to travel, giving the full available travel range in that slot - so more 'up' from rest (but no down)

post-1185-1249039143_thumb.jpg

post-1185-1249039148_thumb.jpg

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Got the braces done, the rear ones are top links off an Axial crawler

img169_01082009220620_1.jpg

img169_01082009220620_2.jpg

Started on the body too, anyone know a good prep thread?

post-1185-1249161732_thumb.jpgpost-1185-1249161739_thumb.jpgpost-1185-1249161743_thumb.jpg

post-1185-1249161748_thumb.jpgpost-1185-1249161753_thumb.jpg

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Right, been to Halfords today ;)

Filler's a little 'gappy' - is that down to the filler (Squadron) or the prep?

Just rubbed it down until it felt dead smooth, but the primer does show some 'pitting'

Do I need finer paper or finer filler?

tlb002.jpg tlb001.jpg tlb003.jpg

tlb004.jpg tlb005.jpg tlb006.jpg

tlb007.jpg tlb008.jpg tlb009.jpg

tlb010.jpg tlb011.jpg tlb012.jpg

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There is a tube of green filler thats for modelling... I've seen it at Snetterton's model shop, but I forget the name of it...

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