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whale22

My DT03 arrived from Japan!

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IN an open box with no oil filled dampers, no ESC, and no electric motor.

UGH...

I guess they opened it and took some of the component out? Or is Tamiya making these more low-end than ever?

OK...What dampers should I purchase?

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The contents are as they are supposed to be for a domestic kit. You have just received the Japanese version of the kit.

The simplest and good choice for dampers: item number 54567 DT-03 CVA Damper Set

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OK. Thanks. That's a bummer. If I got it from Tower Hobbies then I would have got the rest for the same price.

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Yep. With Super Saver Club coupons and some planning on your part (ie. what to buy and how much to spend and which coupons to use), Tower's prices are usually on par with Hong Kong and Japanese website prices, especially when you factor in the shipping.

Without coupons, forget it, the HK and JP sites will win by $10-50 every time.

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IN an open box with no oil filled dampers, no ESC, and no electric motor.

UGH...

I guess they opened it and took some of the component out? Or is Tamiya making these more low-end than ever?

OK...What dampers should I purchase?

Hi which Japanese seller if you don't mind me asking.

Steve.

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VIVEACE MART. I've got some 3rd party dampers (90mm and 70mm) coming and and have ordered one of those Leopard brushless combos (10t). 380 motor in a 540 heat sink from what I can tell. Carbon damper stays, aluminum servo mount, aluminum motor mount, aluminum servo saver and battery bar are all on the way. Anything else I missed? Any point in the DT-02 ball differential? I'm going to make my first foray to the open hours at the local track and don't want to be too embarrassed. 😀

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VIVEACE MART. I've got some 3rd party dampers (90mm and 70mm) coming and and have ordered one of those Leopard brushless combos (10t). 380 motor in a 540 heat sink from what I can tell. Carbon damper stays, aluminum servo mount, aluminum motor mount, aluminum servo saver and battery bar are all on the way. Anything else I missed? Any point in the DT-02 ball differential? I'm going to make my first foray to the open hours at the local track and don't want to be too embarrassed. 😀

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Ball diff: There's no slipper clutch available. The aftermarket DT-02/DT-03 ball diffs are said to be awful. Generally speaking, go for the gear diff if you don't like the thought of increased maintenance for a balldiff.

Most aftermarket dampers come with inappropriate springs, oil and bad oil seals, so see how yours work. The Tamiya CVAs do come with two sets of springs for tuning (If bought as hop-up parts), middle-to-soft weight oil and good seals. They are pretty good.

Avoid aluminum dogbones, they will twist - if this is what you're talking about with the driveshafts.

10T brushless is a lot, depending on kV rating. Keep your eyes on the motor temps due to the reduced torque of 380 type brushless motors in comparison to true 540 type ones. Their heat sinks are not just for laughs, I guess.

The DT-02 alloy motor mount is a good thing if it is the Tamiya #53831 one that comes with a heat sink for closed can motors.

The rest of the alloy stuff is mainly there to please the eye than being functional, from my point of view. Avoid alloy suspension arms at all costs (lol).

Get your hands on either a metric mod. 0.8 steel pinion (17T), or an imperial pitch 32dp steel pinion (17T), if you don't want the stock weak alloy pinion to eat your plastic spur gear away, once the pinion wears down to shark teeth. Don't use Traxxas pinions, too. Pinion bore is 3.175 mm or 1/8 inch.

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Ball diff is tamiya 53863 and they want you to pair it with the DF02 (tamiya 53791) universal shaft...at least according to the box from Japan 😀

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RRP 1117 has the wrong pitch.

3300kV should be OK.

The hollow gear shafts does offer a slight weight advantage. Since they don't turn, the gear shafts have no influence on the drivetrain resistance.

I have no idea of the 3racing unis. I've been using plastic and steel dogbones with good success. Keep in mind: Steel dogbones and unis need suitable diff outdrives, and these outdrives need suitable gear diff internals (splined instead of square keyed).

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hi fella's ,

thats a shame you didnt get the bonus parts , the kits bought from Germany still come with the bonus parts as a regular at my workshop just got one slotcarracing on ebay for his kid and was all present and correct sealed in the cellophane , must be a Japan thing.

i use brass and steel pinions , they are both far harder than the kit alloy item but the kit item is still good for quite a few runs before its shot, just for reference steel pinions can be softer than brass and vice versa , depends on the material , i have a brass pinion from an old tamiya kit that is over 20 years old and has done thousands of runs and is still fine , i am using the maverick brass items at the moment , over 100 runs and it still looks new , it also runs way quieter than the stock alu item ,, dont use 32 pitch as it will damage the spur gear and the gear shaft and motor bearings due to the poor mesh causing bad vibrations ,

the lightweight gear shafts are worth it if you plan on racing in the tamiya fighter cup where the motors are controlled hand out types and thus any advantage may be the difference in getting the win ,

if you want to use CVD drive shafts just fit some 3 racing or tamiya tt01 outdrives , they are a direct fit in the kit diff and cost only a few pounds and last for years, having used both the kit plastic and steel cvd type i found the plastic was actually better on high grip grass track , but for the lowish cost of the 3 racing items it wont break the bank ,

an essential upgrade IMO is some alloy front uprights , the kit ones are very soft and rubbery for durability but, this causes issues of grip roll when you run hotter motors , the front end just bites too hard on turn in with the plastic items , not an issue on hard pack dirt though .

:)

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I had that same Leopard motor/ESC in a DT02 Holiday Buggy for a while. It was stock except for a steel pinion: gear diff, plastic driveshafts and everything, and it held up just fine. It's not a super high-torque motor, so I wouldn't worry too much about the driveshafts or anything. Be aware that since it's not a sensored motor, it's not very smooth at low speeds. Once you're past 20-30% throttle it's fine, but below that it's a little rough and jumpy.

And you're probably better off with the stock gear diff; just use some thick sticky grease on the internal gears (the little metal bevel gears, NOT the big plastic ones) to make the diff a little bit limited-slip.

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Rough and jumpy! Serves me right for buying such a cheap set. It might be bound for my df02 then, my least favorite buggy! I'll need to get

Into one of the hobbyking 540

Motors and ESCs everyone has been raving about. Cheers.

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