Adapter leads getting incredibly hot - LiPo

[ChrisRx718 4470]

I have several different 'runners' and about 4 healthy NiMH packs, so most of my cars run a Tamiya style connector.

My newer LiPo's are great and work brilliantly with my brushless models which have a T / Deans connector as standard.

Going from advice on here, I made up an adapter lead and installed an alarm in one of my older runners so I could choose between running a NiMH or the new LiPo (with adapter lead).

Problem I'm having is that the wires & connectors are getting incredibly hot after just over 5 minutes of running with the LiPo & Adapter lead.

That suggests the resistance is too great or the quality of connection is a bit rubbish, doesn't it?

I'm worried because it was 'really' hot, like too hot to touch. The potential is there for 30+ minutes of runtime with some models, should I be concerned? What can I do?

I don't really want to have to convert absolutely everything over to Deans connectors, but I suppose it's a possible solution.

Does anyone else have this problem?

[bsy2010 218]

In my experience, NiMHs act as a natural limiter with powerful motors, as they cannot deliver as much juice as the motor might want. With Lipos this is not the case anymore and the current could be much higher, in most cases too high for the cheap Tamiya connectors.

First thing I do with my electronics is the conversion to appropriate connectors, like Deans

[SteveU30 1011]

Yep, change everything to Deans mate. I know it's a pain but you've only got to do it once and for the peace of mind it's worth it, trust me. LiPos can erupt on discharge not just on charge so you really don't want to take any risks like using Tamiya 'bottleneck' connectors!

Make sure you buy the Deans plugs with the little grips on though as it makes them much easier to pull apart. You can buy large quantities from various sellers on eBay.

[94eg! 834]

It depends very much on the motor you are using. A strong motor pulls a lot of current. As bsy2010 mentioned, nimh cannot provide the motors demand, so there is no problem. But switching to lipo means the system has a lot more current on tap, and motor is free to pull as much as it want.

Moral of story: Only run power through a Tamiya connector IF you have a slow motor. I would guess 23T brushed and above. Anything hotter and you definitely need to switch the ESC to deans. It will be worth it.

BTW: I had a connector melt together once. It was a 14T Acto pink motor in a dynastorm. The plug was fused solid and I had to clip it off my vintage CPR unit. I was not happy.

[AndyjcClod 389]

I second SteveU30 and get those dean connectors fitted.

I did and I have never looked back deans connectors are the way to go.

[IBIFTKH 1369]

Worst case scenario - the Tamiya connector melts and you get a dead short. We've all seen what happens to a Lipo in that situation. Please don't take the risk.

I know it's a pain changing all your battery and ESC connectors (been there, done that) but it's so worth doing.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Looks like I've got work to do then, probably around 15 ESCs and 5 or 6 batteries to convert! May invest in a better soldering iron.

[94eg! 834]

[Champ85 609]

Friends don't let friends use Tamiya connectors.

[Champ85 609]

Helpful thread about soldering Deans if you need it: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70326

[danb1974 93]

Friends keep the camera handy to film the lipo fire

Sorry couldn't resist

I wouldn't use tamiya connector for anything else than stock motor. They are rated for like 15Amps (when in good shape) which is very low for today power systems