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chickenman242tk

super clod glitching issues

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so i keep having a rather annoying problem with the clod , running the stock esc and silver cans and a spektrum tx/rx . it seems once the battery starts getting to about half way down i loose signal , i tried a lipo and it took off and smashed into the fence, couldnt use it at all , has anyone had these issues , am i betting moving the rx away from the esc as the antenna is quite short on the spektrum and doesnt go through the body.

or do i need to change the esc to something better.?

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103 or 106bk?

Yes definitely helps to move antenna, battery and motor wires away from each other if possible.

I would try another receiver if possible just to eliminate that but if the antenna isn't out the body it isn't a major, all it will do is reduce your range the less the tx and rx can 'see' each other.

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its the 106 , i may just move the rx and see what happens , the rx is virtually brand new , i got it when i got the truck.

i have to order another rx for up coming project so i may try that and see if it helps.

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many people have had major issues with spektrum radio gear, often one will have a power brown out to the rx, this is caused by the servo/s. I had a dodgy rx in my race 1/8th truggy, had signal loss, and spear headed towards the picnic table off to the side of the track, replacing the rx might help, changing servo/s might help also, changing to a fhss system from the dsm/2/r system will help, also running the rx off an independant battery may help.

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a test you can do is power up the car, get the wheels clear of the ground, and move your tx behind a sizeable chunk of metal, each time I had an issue with my truggy trying to plow head first into a solid object I was either getting onto or off the drivers stand for my club track which is built on top of a container. I was lucky that I had a spare rx with me at the track, I switched it out, and it hasn't tried to take off on me since.

An external battery is a quick test, provided your rx is old enough to have a plug point for an external battery and doesn't require the esc to be plugged in to the same point.

as far as the antenna, I have been advised by another racer who works in the radio industry that it is highly recommended to have the antenna getting clear of the body regardless of what system is being used, AM, FM, 2.4g they all get a level of signal loss due to the paint, and body.

I should clarify my first post, it was somewhat general. I meant to say that many of the racers here in NZ have had issues running their cars at my clubs track with spektrum radio gear. Spektrum radio gear is really good, but it's flaw is the fact that when the system powers up, the tx and rx cycle through the 2.4g band to find a clear frequency, then they will lock to that one until turned off, and talk back and forth with each other, which is fine right up until something else lands on the same frequency, All of the above is what makes me nervous about running that truggy after spending $2000 nzd getting the thing race ready, the last thing I need it doing is trying to break itself before I get a few races done with it *lol*

addendum: quite tired now, so I'm gonna read through this after some sleep, have a feeling it's gonna be confusing, but tired brain can't focus....

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What spectrum are you running ? . I run it all the time & don't have a problem .

But once i did & i could not bind a new rx , it had me stuffed . So i rung Al

& talked to him ( bad move , he hate's spectrum ) :lol: . But i said whats

the new spec 4 worth . He let me know & i pondered over it etc .

A few days later i tryed again & it still didn't work . Then i looked

at the TX & low and behold the TX battery was low . ( "Yer " " Yer " ok stop laughing) .

The TX don't like to be low on battery power . I'm sure it was about 3.2 volts on it about .

But it didn't like it at all . My RX's are close to ESC's & work fine . Servo could be a problem <

I have had that before . So you could try to remove the servo & try to see if it glitches ?.

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Its running one of those tower pro servos, run them in most of my tamiya rigs with no issues.

The rx is a sr201 and at i guess i would be running 4 of these and 3 sr301 ,its just this one that causes me grief, i have the same combo in my bear hawk and it is perfect.

The one time i tried a lipo it went mental ,it was almost like the battery was flat and the response was very slow from both steering and throttle.

I do have a glitchbuster cap in my toolbox somewhere so i might also try that too

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Its running one of those tower pro servos, run them in most of my tamiya rigs with no issues.

The rx is a sr201 and at i guess i would be running 4 of these and 3 sr301 ,its just this one that causes me grief, i have the same combo in my bear hawk and it is perfect.

The one time i tried a lipo it went mental ,it was almost like the battery was flat and the response was very slow from both steering and throttle.

I do have a glitchbuster cap in my toolbox somewhere so i might also try that too

Ok , put that one into bearhawk & see what happens , if it glitches , throw it out . If it don't glitch

Put the bearhawk one into the clod & see what happens , also remove servo at some point , to try that .

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im going to order a new sr201 on Monday , ill try moving it first and check the tx voltage too :) .

I do have a decent hpi esc sitting here that ben gave me I may try that too ,also the glitchbuster too

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often one will have a power brown out to the rx, this is caused by the servo/s.

In my experience, "power brown outs" are not so much caused by the servos, but instead by the BEC in the ESC not being able to deliver enough current to power the receiver and servos, or when the battery being used is NOT able to deliver enough current to power multiple motors, and the battery voltage drops below the minimum threshold required for the ESC, Receiver and servos to operate..

An external BEC may cure the problem with the ESC's internal BEC, especially of you are using multiple high power/torque servos..

A "stutter stopper" (capacitor) may help if the problem is battery related..

I have run Spektrum Radio gear in my race cars for many years, and I have not had any problems with it at all, even when running with the Orange RC receivers and High speed/Torque digital servos..

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Oh those MG996 things? Just realise there is about 4 clone versions of that servo. I would swap the servo with a known good servo out of one of your other models and try the truck and then the same with a known receiver and try it out again just to eliminate what is causing the problem. That servo is a 10kg servo working off the 106's internal BEC, and being those servos can be a 'luck of the draw' depending on which one you get and possibly have high internal resistance, also it is trying to turn four clod tyres with huge contact patches.

If you are still running the factory clod steering, a 10kg servo is a bit of a waste IMO anyway as all it will be doing is the torque forcing those gearbox servo savers to work harder, as I feel you get the same effect with a standard 4kg s3003 with the stock steering.

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Im going to test a few things early this week ,ive got another esc here i wouldnt mind using as i would say it has a bit more grunt.

The servo is a mg995 ,at the moment ive got about 10 of them in use but im not going to rule it out ,i used it mainly because it was all I had and prefer metal geared sevos and this thing gets a workout.

Im fairly sure its not a interference issue asnit only does it when its been run for a while but i wont rule it out ,gonna try a glitchbuster first and go from there

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When I was using a single Futaba S132 Servo for steering, I had no glitches. Then I went to dual Tower Pro MG995's and glitched all over....First I switched to a 6V nicad pack for power and the glitching went away. I have lights on my Clod and when I was glitching they were flashing......So the separate power for the servos and rx fixed it. I since switched to a Castlle 10A BEC and took out the separate power pack. Still works great. Those MG995 and MG996 draw about 1.5 Amps when stalled. most BEC in the ESC are 1.5 to 2 amp (mine was a 2 amp) and can't handle the stall load of a high torque servo.

You probably have an old 4 AA cell battery pack around. Pull out the red wire from the ESC wires that go to the RX. Plug the battery pack into the Batt port of the RX and see if the glitch goes away. That will confirm the ESC BEC is overloaded.

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