Fitting 1.9 wheels to a DT02 / similar

[ChrisRx718 4470]

So I've recently completed my DT-02 build and still haven't even put a battery pack through it - but I'm already looking at modifications!

The standard wheels are going to be pretty good for running in dirt / grass, but they will be pretty quickly destroyed running on tarmac.

I have loads of CC01 standard tyres, which have a similar overall diameter on 1.9 wheels.

The problem I have is the front wheels. Is there a 1.9 'touring' wheel available for the 1150 bearing fitment? As hex fitment simply won't work.

I know some wheels were made for the F103 chassis which worked in a similar way, but these look like they had foam tyres / not 1.9 diameter.

Any help much appreciated.

[TWINSET 1793]

Doesn't this HPI set allow 'hex' wheels to run on bearings somehow - or did I remember wrong?

http://sheldonshobbies.com/products/hpi-6115-super-star-front-collar-set

Or is it 6120;

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/206509/

[ChrisRx718 4470]

That second set looks like it might work, but difficult to say without seeing the back side of it. I don't mind drilling out an old set of wheels to make the centre hole slightly bigger (assume I will need to anyway).

Anybody have any experience of the above products?

[ChrisRx718 4470]

After much searching and head-scratching I think I've found the answer.

GPM part ref. DT3010F

This is an aluminium hex which can accept 2 850 bearings (supplied) the above part number comes with a pair of hexes to do a front axle on a DT02 / DT03 etc.

[bromvw 744]

they look as though they might also be the solution for many other applications too where you want to fit Hex wheels on a none hex 2WD . Nice find .

[kaylon 235]

That reminds me...I ordered two pairs of them before Xmas and they are still not here... ummm...

Btw, the HPI adapters do work...

[Nobbi1977 1793]

After much searching and head-scratching I think I've found the answer.

 

GPM part ref. DT3010F

 

This is an aluminium hex which can accept 2 850 bearings (supplied) the above part number comes with a pair of hexes to do a front axle on a DT02 / DT03 etc.

 

 

These will have the wheel running against a static nut so not an ideal solution. I have a solution in my head but not the 3d skills to get it in to a computer :-(

[TWINSET 1793]

It's no different to the way all other 2WD bearinged front wheels work

The nut bottoms out against a shoulder on the shaft, not against the bearing

The only change is the bearings are in an aluminium sleeve instead of a plastic wheel

The wheel may come off the hex, so a bit of glue wouldn't go amiss - depends on the size of the wheelnut

[Nobbi1977 1793]

It's no different to the way all other 2WD bearinged front wheels work

The nut bottoms out against a shoulder on the shaft, not against the bearing

 

The only difference is the bearings are in an aluminium sleeve instead  of a plastic wheel

But the nut presses against the bearing not the face of the wheel

[TWINSET 1793]

But the nut presses against the bearing not the face of the wheel

No it doesn't - the nut stops against a shoulder, after that is the shaft the bearings run on

The bearing may touch the wheelnut but the nut doesn't clamp the bearing in any way.

This setup is used on loads of 2WD buggies, here's the oldest example I could think of;

. .

And a more recent one;

. .

[njmlondon 570]

After much searching and head-scratching I think I've found the answer.

GPM part ref. DT3010F

This is an aluminium hex which can accept 2 850 bearings (supplied) the above part number comes with a pair of hexes to do a front axle on a DT02 / DT03 etc.

Really interested in seeing these in action. Have you ordered some?

[JennyMo 3526]

There is a similar discussion here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73368&page=2

The main problem is that a hex wheel has a 4mm hole through it, so that the wheel-nut does up against the face of the wheel - holding it and the hex together securely.

Even if you put bearings inside the hex (like the Asia Tees adaptor), ultimately the face of the wheel will still be 'bearing' on the inside of the wheel-nut - unless you drill out the centre of the wheel so that the nut now bears on the bearing and/or the step in the axle as Twinset suggests.

The problem then of course is that now there his nothing holding the wheel and the hex together, so the wheel falls off (even though the hub/hex is mounted securely to the axle.

The only way I have found this to be technically feasible is to either bolt the hex to the wheel in a different position (Toykid suggested using something like the RC4WD scale wheels that have 5 genuine 'wheel nut' holes, and effectively a larger flange on the hex that the wheel can be screwed into) - or if you want a 'universal fit', then actually glue the hexes into whichever wheels you choose, effectively forming a one-piece freewheel wheel-set for the front.

This is obviously not reversible of course - but then it isn't anyway since you've drilled out the centre of the wheel already... and as Reillor suggests, it's not really a problem to commit a pair of Tamiya wheels to a project as they are so widely (and relatively cheaply) available?

Jx

[njmlondon 570]

The only way I have found this to be technically feasible is to either bolt the hex to the wheel in a different position (Toykid suggested using something like the RC4WD scale wheels that have 5 genuine 'wheel nut' holes, and effectively a larger flange on the hex that the wheel can be screwed into) -

Jx

Interesting. I have a set of RC4WD wheels with those lugs at home. I am mulling over trying to use the RC4WD Landie wheels on a Scorcher project and wonder if this is the answer.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

I have ordered some, expect delivery early next week sometime.

I am wondering whether a simple washer arrangement would help, which is slightly larger than the flange on the M4 lock nut but small enough to fit against the face of the wheel would suffice (at holding the wheel on).

That said, the flange may be enough on its' own to hold the wheel on to the hub. I simply won't know until the things arrive, as they appear to have a raised area which would effectively work like a 'spigot' (like on some 1:1 cars) to which the wheel rests. How far this protrudes will determine how well this will work in theory.

The product was only launched mid-January, so there is very little information out there!

[JennyMo 3526]

Interesting. I have a set of RC4WD wheels with those lugs at home. I am mulling over trying to use the RC4WD Landie wheels on a Scorcher project and wonder if this is the answer.

I'd say it's perfectly possible - although what size is the hole in the centre - ie. do they still have a stock hex on the inside?

Personally I think the best wheels to use for this idea is something like the Axial IFD design: http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax31118

(although these are only available in 2.2 size it seems), as they have a separate hex adaptor that bolts to the wheel on the rear, and a large hole in the centre already.

JxX31118

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Just found another image online (GPM's own website) with what looks like a completely different face to the hex.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Right, these parts landed at the weekend and I got around to fitting them last night.

This is not an elegant solution, by any means. In fact, I don't even know how long it is likely to last....

However...

The parts, inc. the tiny 850 bearings (note the design has changed from the above image):

The alloy piece sits nicely into a 12mm hex wheel like so - (it won't fit the other way around)

I had to enlarge the hole on the wheels I was using ever so slightly, just so they would slide over the stub axle. The left hand wheel is un-touched, the right-hand wheel has been butchered a little -

Made this one slightly too big, something I would regret later -

Wheel nut tightens right up to the end of the thread. This however still allows ~ 1mm of lateral movement in the wheel hub, which makes the fit a bit naff. This is manufacturing tolerances between the alloy hub and the plastic wheel itself (genuine Tamiya, from Ferrari FXX kit).

The front wheels have high-speed wobble. However, because the front axle is not driven, this shouldn't prove too much of a problem.

I have thought about shimming these out to reduce the wobble, but I didn't have any suitable shims to hand. I then figured that bringing the wheel face closer to the nut could increase friction somewhat, potentially un-doing the wheel nut or causing excess drag.

Either way, it works. Just don't expect this to work flawlessly or fit as well as a TRF part, since it's not an elegant solution to doing this - but it is about the only one on the market. It also means I finally have a use for my stacks of CC01 standard tyres, which seem to be everywhere. A quick test drive outside confirms that this setup is pretty fantastic for tarmac bashing, which was the intended purpose. Grip isn't fantastic, but that's the tyres for you!!

[Nobbi1977 1793]

What about if they went in the other way around and the hole was bigger?

[ChrisRx718 4470]

I considered that experiment, but the clearance on the steering knuckle is minimal at present - I've had to shave some material off of the ball joint already. Reversing the hex brings the wheels inwards further still, I don't think it would work.

[XV Pilot 1936]

Methinks the simplest method would be to source a set of front wheels from a QD 1/10 rally or touring car. They are standard 1.9 size, but take a pair of bearings just like a 2wd buggy front wheel.

[taliesin 260]

Yup, what XV Pilot said.

I used to run the QD touring car wheels on my 2wd buggies with a variety of tires including rally blocks, x patterns, Tamiya radials, etc. Worked a real treat for buggies that saw a lot of tarmac use.

They were cheap and easy to get in white and silver, not sure about others. NO high speed wobble or nastiness, they worked great and looked pretty cool too.

You might look to see if they are still available.

EDIT: several sets on ebay.uk right now.