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axemandavva

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About axemandavva

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  • Birthday 01/01/1911

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    http://www.twisteddogbone.com
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  1. For bashing I also think a TL01 isn`t a bad choice. The only thing you really need is a steel motor pinion and ball bearings and it`ll handle a brushless set up. There`s also lots of TL01 about and they tend to be cheap. TA01 I find more fragile, you tend to need a steel pinion, stiffer prop shaft and metal motor mount as well bearings, and the ball diff in the rear (if fitted) might slip under a lot of brushless power. TT01 I also think you need to upgrade the propshaft as well as fit a steel pinion and ball bearings. Of course, depending on how silly you go with power, you may need better shocks and tyres to keep these cars driveable, and other parts will start to wear out quicker. Old 1/10 schumacher, yokomo or similar belt drive race cars can also be a good choice as you can sometimes find them cheap, and they`ll way out perform and handle the Tamiya cars mentioned above. Parts may not be as easy to find, and a lot of these cars run ball diffs which can cause a problem with slipping if you`re going for lots of brushless power.
  2. You might find tamiya plugs overheating with lipo power and hot motors, deans are much better - but if you have a lot of cars you could make a deans to tamiya converter for those with less powerful motors/occasional runners - just be careful to get the polarity right!
  3. I think the fastest growing area of RC cars is going to depend on where you are in the world. Nitro will always have fans of the noise, and the fact that you`re working with a real engine - for me the noise and the mess working with fuel is not enough to sway me away from electric motors, especially now brushless lipo performance is comparable if not better. I suspect it will be a long time before the uneducated masses realise an electric car can be quicker then a nitro (or "petrol", as they tend to call them). In the UK I`ve seemed to notice off road racing coming back a bit, and the short course trucks coming along. Drifting seems ever more popular from browsing you tube. And I`ve seen a few rallying videos lately which is a new thing to me ... where you run along the course with your car and Marshall yourself I guess. RC racing that actually gets you fit? I reckon the rallying must be popular in Scandinavia and other parts of Europe where almost every body drives a rally car and most babies probably come out of their mothers sideways. In America ... who knows? Our friends from over the pond can get very excited about racing in a straight line or around in a circle, so I`m sure that must influence what happens in the RC world there One thing I didn`t see any of at my local on road club last time I popped along to have a look is the tamiya formula 1 racers that used to be popular. But there was a heat or two of motorbikes racing which I`d never seen before.
  4. Most ESC`s power the receiver through the servo lead, and receivers with or without BEC circuitry will work. Tamiya ESC`s such as the TEU-101 have a separate power supply lead to plug into the receiver battery slot. Again I think receivers with or without BEC will work but I`d rather use a BEC receiver. The BEC in the receiver is mainly used when you have an MSC, and take a feed from this straight into the receiver - so the power is coming straight from the 7.2v nicad. This is how receiver batteries were eliminated without using an ESC, tamiya MSC`s a bit later then the one in your Lunchbox have a radio power wire coming off them which is meant to plug into a BEC receiver (via a switch). I think there were a few cars which came with a separate bit of BEC circuitry (original hotshot if I recall correctly), designed to to what the BEC built into the receiver does these days. These were around when BEC receivers were not yet common but the cars did not actually have space in the chassis for receiver batteries. If you`re only planning using the Kit 540 motor, or something mild like a sport tuned the Tamiya TEU-101 ESC should be fine.
  5. For stripping paint on hard bodies I have been using desolvit graffiti remover lately. What I like about it is that if it`s going to work it works quickly - spray on, leave for 15 minutes, wash off, rinse and repeat. You can tell quite quickly if the paint is shifting, and with the chemicals only in contact with the plastic for a short period of time I feel there is less chance of the body being damaged should the plastic react badly to the gunk. I have not tried it on a lexan body. Brake fluid works well too sometimes, but there have been bodies I have soaked for weeks without any paint coming off.
  6. That looks like a very cool conversion. Nice work
  7. Looking after your batteries will help them a lot - as they are Ni Cad or Ni Mh you should run them flat each use and store them flat, and fully charge them when they are cold before use. This should give you the best run times and performance, and also maximise the working life of the battery (number of charge/discharge cycles before it no longer holds a useful charge). The larger capacity battery should take a little longer to charge - when they`re fully charged they should be just warm in the hand (don`t over charge them ... if they get hot there`s a small risk they will catch fire!) Some Ni-cads deliver a little more punch then others but there`s not usually a lot in it. LiPo batteries can deliver a lot more power, so cars go much quicker (these need their own chargers, and should never be drained completely flat).
  8. Oh wow ... Some very nice cars you have there
  9. If I recall correctly the standard original Subaru Brat doesn`t have a diff - athough the re-release does - so my first question would be what was actually in the gearbox? Most likely is a final drive gear with a solid axle through it, or a geared diff. There are a few after market ball diffs out there, but these are very rare. The most common cause of poor acceleration is actually the wheel hubs spinning in the tyres. This happens when the rubber is old, and has not been glued to the rims so it`s worth checking for just to rule it out (as I don`t think it`s possible with the 3 piece wheel design on the brat ... but you may have different one piece wheels fitted). If you remove the motor, hold the second gear with your finger and one wheel, and are able to turn the other wheel then something is broken or slipping in the gearbox or drive shafts. Does the car make a clicking noise when it fails to move?
  10. I`m not familar with this speed controller (ESC) ... but my first thought is that you may have things backwards, and so it is your reverse that is cutting out, perhaps by design. Most ESC`s give instant throttle in one direction (forwards), but when you switch direction there is a delay for the brake - before reverse kicks in, which may be restricted. Put your car on a brick so the wheels run free and you can test it. go to full reverse, then full forward. If there is a delay switching from reverse to forward, but not the other way around then maybe your ESC is backwards. If this is the case you need to reverse the servo direction switch on your transmitter and swap over your motor plug wires, and maybe reset the neutral and high positions on the ESC. To go off road you can go for bigger wheels (like on a stadium raider) or bigger wheels and longer wishbones (like on a Baja King) both of which use the same basic chassis.
  11. Neat. I`ve not come across these diffs before but they definitely sound like progress. I guess the only advantage some ball diffs might have is that it is quicker and easier to get in there and tighten the screw if it is slipping too much.
  12. I stand corrected, it`s been a few years since I`ve been to the track. Many of those around at the time the TT01 and TL01 (schumachers, yokomos) do have ball diffs which slip when you go silly with the power - but other then that they can be great cars for bashing because they`re not too expensive and tend to handle better then a stock TT01 or TL01.
  13. TT01 you need an alloy propshaft or the plastic one will happily try to remove your radio gear for you as you have found. A steal pinion would be a must too. The old TL01 has a steel drive shaft which can handle the power. For ultimate speed you need a brushless motor and lipo as has been said, then then the only problem is using the power. Most top end touring cars have ball diffs, which tend to slip when you`re going for ultimate drag race type speed - even with 4wd. I suppose if you`re running somewhere very flat and grippy and smooth and you have a bit of foam tyre additive you could try something like this
  14. On the flip side of this topic - I just has an auction killed with all the bidders cancelling on the same day. It can be just as frustrating for sellers. All these bids had sat for a few days. I asked the bidders what the problem was, and of those who replied... One said he had looked at the high res photos and changed his mind ... why not look at the photos before bidding. One said their account was hacked and somebody bid without their permission ... this may be true but it`s a fairly standard line I hear from people who win items but don`t pay. One said they`d already got the item from somewhere else. Not honouring a bid is a breach of contract - if you stuck your hand up at a live auction and then tried to retract your bid you`d be in for some pain. For some reason some people seem to think it`s ok to do it from behind a computer screen
  15. Most ESC`s work this way, tamiya TEU ESC`s have a separate cable that plugs into the receiver battery slot to provide power. It sounds like your ESC has a fault, or possibly does not have a facility to power the receiver (I`ve never seen this apart from on very early ESC`s). The switch on the ESC should turn the receiver and servos on when a battery is connected. You could try plugging the ESC into channel 1 and the servo into channel 2 just to see if that works - but as you have already tried an alternate receiver I suspect the issue is the ESC. Hopefully somebody will turn up who knows this ESC or has instructions for it to check against. If there is a fault on the ESC and you can`t get it to power the receiver but everything else works perfectly when you use separate receiver batteries then it may be possible to splice power from the main battery wires to go into the receiver directly to power it... if the receiver is marked "BEC" (for battery eliminator circuit) this should be ok - but do wait for a second opinion. (With manual speed controllers a feed is taken directly off the main battery to plug into a BEC receiver so I think this would work). If the receiver is not a BEC one then you will need some basic circuitry between the main battery and receiver to avoid blowing it up.
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