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cheba

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About cheba

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  1. Yeah, it's made from straws, but it's nothing fancy if you take a closer look. I tried cutting the ends of the pipe to the correct shape to fit, but didn't spend a lot of time on it so the joints don't line up perfectly. Since the joints won't be very visible from the outside, I relied on the hot glue filling the gaps and keeping the joints together. As I mentioned, I've never worked with styrene tubes but I guess since they are thicker and stiffer (I assume they are) it is easier to cut/file the ends of the pipes to the correct shape to make good fitting joints. Obviously it will require a lot more work and time. With the straw method, I didn't spend more than an hour. I've also been thinking that this is one of the few Tamiya kits where the body/wheel fitment is just right. Perhaps because the body was originally made for use with this particular chassis only (and later only with the TA-03R-S as the PIAA Porsche). Most other TC bodies and chassis are designed to be interchangable, so the body/wheel tolerances have to be larger. And in my case, I've also dropped the body down from "driving height" which improves the looks further.
  2. Go ahead and make it happen! I saw earlier in the thread you had tried one of the ready made ones from ebay. I've never tried one myself but it's clear that they need to be adapted to the cockpit/body and still won't look good or realistic so I can understand why you skipped it. I used plain plastic drinking straws cut to different lengths and a hot glue gun. I even used the flexible "accordion" bend of the straws in some places; in the corners of the roof and for the ends of the horizontal harness bar in the middle of the cage. It doesn't look that realistic if one looks close, but it saves a lot of work having to glue additional joints with pipes at different angles. When I first made the cage for the Delta body I tried using super glue but it didn't work well. It didn't adhere to the glossy straws and the glue gets hard when it dries, so joints detach easily when the body shakes during driving. The glue from the hot glue gun adheres better and is much thicker so it is easier to build joints from thin straws, plus it's a bit flexible when dried, like rubber. I've never used styrene tubes as mentioned in this thread, but since they can be bent when heated it is probably possible to make a really realistic-looking cage using those also.
  3. Thanks! It looks better than the cage in my Delta actually. When I did that one I also tried to refer to pictures of Group A Deltas to make it realistic, but the Delta body is larger so it has a different look compared to the Porsche, where there are a lot of pipes in a compact space. The problem when doing the cage on the inside of the body is that there is no gap between the body/windows and the cage so it doesn't look perfectly realistic, as the body is unrealistically thin. That's why it's better when you have a cockpit and can build the cage on that, leaving a couple of millimeters of gap between the body and the cage. I tried to get around this problem somewhat by not attaching the rearmost pipes to the sides of the body; they are simply "hanging" from the roof and there is a little air gap between the pipe and the rear side window. It will certainly look nice with the cockpit you got there. But isn't the 934 cockpit smaller since it's a 1/12 kit? I want to get a cockpit for the GT2 too, well I've been saying I also want a rally cockpit for the Delta for a long while now, but it isn't top priority. I try to keep a budget, and hopups for the XV-01 tend to be first in line when I place an order
  4. I don't have an interior (yet) but I made a rollcage which adds some nice detail to the body. I previously did the same to my Delta Integrale body. I used pictures of the 993 GT2 static model kit for reference to get a realistic layout. I also re-did the stone chip guards to look more like the classic ones seen on aircooled 911's. Altered the shape and made them go lower, onto the sill. I split them in two parts, sill part and fender part. I like the look of roll cages in street cars, particularly in sports cars like the 911.
  5. I finished the body last weekend. Windows, headlights, taillights and even indicators (for some reason) masked. I plan on getting the light bucket set from the GT3 kit. Painted with Tamiya PS silver. ABS plastic parts also painted with PS. I skipped the silver decals for the mirrors (which are the same color as the body anyway). Instead I used thin double sided tape and aluminium foil for a more mirror-like finish. The result is "functional" side mirrors. Another detail I added myself. I cut a piece of a matt black decal sheet and put it under the intercooler decal to emulate the look of a dark engine bay beneath the intercooler. This is how it turned out. I only added the decals necessary to make it look like a road car. Left out the race car stuff like hood pins, killswitch and fuel filler door. Also left out the door handle decals since I think they would too visible. The door handles stand out quite well even without the decals. I didn't use the exhaust decals since they are really ugly. I plan on cutting out the muffler recesses if I get hold of some kind of muffler to put in them. The ugly headlight stickers have been left out since I will be getting light buckets. Also cut stone chip guards (as seen on many aircooled 911's) from a black decal sheet and put them on the rear fenders. I think it tuned out real nice. Since it sits on the shelf, I've set the body low. It sits on the shock tower in front and on the lowest body post hole in the rear. Too low to run without the front tires rubbing the inside of the body. If you look closely you can see that I skipped the silver decal for the splitter lip (same color as body anyway) and used a carbon fiber pattern decal sheet insted. Additional view of the carbon fiber splitter lip. Lastly I optimized the packaging of the electronics. The included ESC just fits in the empty space in the tub behind the servo if placed on its side. It looks much nicer than placing the ESC on the top deck (as the manual suggests) since that makes for a tall packaging with a lot of unused space in the tub. Now it is much more slimmed with only the receiver placed on the top deck. I tried to bunch the cables up and keep them away as much as possible.
  6. Ordered paint for mine. Will be going for silver. Was thinking of white first because I like white cars, but on an RC body it doesn't look good unless you do the panel lines realistically to break off all the white. Also I think a darker color does the curvature of this particular body more justice. The small shop where I ordered the paint also had a small selection of vintage hopups listed, for only a fraction of the price they go for on eBay. It was pretty much a no-brainer to get them all. The original plan was to install them at some point but now that I have them I feel like leaving them NIP.
  7. That is ridiculously nice looking. Those wheel nuts are awesome.
  8. Yeah, but the re-release body set and white plastic body parts were not released as spare parts. So it must have come from the complete kit (#84399).
  9. They have the body set of the re-release version as well as the white plastic body parts and the manual of the re-release. This suggests they have opened some boxes and are selling the parts individually. That means they should have the grey chassis parts too, unless they already sold out. They also have the black body parts, as well as a body set including black parts, minus decals.
  10. Yeah, I too noticed that in the beginning of last week. I had been keeping an eye on this kit since I first read about it a couple of weeks ago. When I saw it was discontinued I decided to order one from Tamico, in case prices goes up as stocks starts to run low (since it was already out of stock at the HK shops). I found this thread and was thinking about giving you guys a heads up that it's been discontinued, but had to wait over a week to get registered on this forum. Anyway, already got my kit at home, together with a cheap Carson servo. The kit will only see some occasional light running, so no fancy electronics and only some basics hopups. Ordered a set of ball bearings from HK, will be waiting for those before I build it. Feels like it will be a loooong wait... I'm not sure about how to do the body. White (like the manual suggests) is perhaps my favorite color on cars and this car looks great in white. Silver (box art) also looks good. I have even been thinking of getting decals and making a Taisan replica. What I don't like about that is that you have to paint the white plastic parts black, and as soon as they get a scratch the white plastic will shine through.
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