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So I've been restoring an original Clod Buster and was looking for some inspiration. I definitely don't want to keep it stock, but I want to keep it true Tamiya with the original chassis. Since it's vintage, I won't be doing any crawling or serious bashing.

I will be using a modern TEU-106BK esc, and plan to use Tamiya 54472 dampers (with reserve tanks) that are a hop up for the TXT-2.

Would really like to hear some feed back/experiences with different motors and battery types. Pics would also help :)

Thanks in advance!

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The TEU-106 isn't a bad ESC to run with stock silver can motors, but I'd try to find a Traxxas XL-5 ESC - normallly pretty cheap on your side of the pond.

Normal damper hop-ups are to fit Traxxas shocks from the E-Maxx - again cheap, robust and effective. I've seen very little mention of the hop up TXT2 items other thana few comment about poor quality and leaks - forum search might help you find them. I bought the 54109 alloy dampers for my CR-01, they are certainly not Tamiya TRF quality, little better than 3Racing IMO - thankfully I got them for $60 which was OK, I ceratinly wouldn't bother at $100 a set (or $170 a set in the UK !)

'My' mildly uprated Clod is in the showrroom here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122550&sid=34746 It's now residing with TC member SteveU30.

If you don't already have them fitted buy the reinforcing plates for the central servo mount area, unless you are going to run the servos on the axles.

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Excellent info, thanks Percymon! I don't know what it is, maybe because I'm such a die hard Tamiya guy, I feel weird putting Traxxas parts on. I have a bunch on my Twin Detonator and must admit, never had any quality issues.

Thanks for the heads up on the shocks. They are quite expensive and it's a pity the quality isn't up to par with the rest of Tamiya's other hop up options.

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Oh and your Clod is a beaut!

Thanks, although since I've sold i I'd rather not hear that :lol:

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The clod can be run with basic upgrades to really make a fun runner.

Axle mounted steering really helps for starters ! Inexpensive and worth it.

I run the Tekin FXR Pro esc in both my Clod and Bullhead re releases. Has lipo cutoff built right in.

I've added the old Tamiya Sport tuned motors too, though I think they are about the same as the stock silver cans.

The pogo stock shocks are okay for fun running but an inexpensive tune up is traxxas big bore oil shocks which can be purchased for great prices.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=115920&sid=7434

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=109770&sid=7434

img7434_15052014145107_2.jpg

img7434_06072014004105_4.jpg

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Hey backtomyroots I love the way your clod looks. Just wondering where I could find myself a set of those Tamiya gold shocks?oil? I prefer the look of those shocks over the full length spring types. They don't look quite as real.

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Hey backtomyroots I love the way your clod looks. Just wondering where I could find myself a set of those Tamiya gold shocks?oil? I prefer the look of those shocks over the full length spring types. They don't look quite as real.

Tamiya Hop Up Shock Set #53369. I think they are out of production now but can be found on Ebay and in some stores.

RC4WD also makes some options that look more realistic.

http://store.rc4wd.com/Suspension-Shock_c_23.html

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Lots of helpful info, many thanks. Had a couple more questions..the mentioned esc's from Traxxas and Tekin are designed for one motor as I see only 2 leads. Splicing the 2 motors together isn't a problem?

Also, for those who've removed the msc in favor for an esc, did you keep the power/economy switch wired in?

Additionally, I want to keep the servo in its original location. Percymon, you mentioned servo plates. Any more info on them? I searched the bay and found ones made by Axial. Not sure if these are what I need.

Lastly, I've been searching battery options. I found one that's a 7.2nimh, that splits evenly and sits on top of the tub neatly, to the left and to the right. Haven't heard any mention of it, so not so sure.

Sorry for the many questions, your help is always greatly appreciated!!

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If you don't already have them fitted buy the reinforcing plates for the central servo mount area, unless you are going to run the servos on the axles.

Which plates do you mean ?

Lots of helpful info, many thanks. Had a couple more questions..the mentioned esc's from Traxxas and Tekin are designed for one motor as I see only 2 leads. Splicing the 2 motors together isn't a problem?

Also, for those who've removed the msc in favor for an esc, did you keep the power/economy switch wired in?

Additionally, I want to keep the servo in its original location. Percymon, you mentioned servo plates. Any more info on them? I searched the bay and found ones made by Axial. Not sure if these are what I need.

Lastly, I've been searching battery options. I found one that's a 7.2nimh, that splits evenly and sits on top of the tub neatly, to the left and to the right. Haven't heard any mention of it, so not so sure.

Sorry for the many questions, your help is always greatly appreciated!!

You simply the solder the motors and speed controller together usually in parallel. This then means you remove the mechanical speed controller and power/economy switch. If you don't want to solder get the Tamiya esc made for dual motors.

(For best performance, mount the servo on the front axle and either lock out the rear or mount a second servo on the rear axle)

If upgrading to an electronic speed controller you should buy new lipo batteries for best performance. I use several different traxxas lipos in mine and they fit in the proper battery location.

If sticking with nimh there are several high capacity ones that will also fit in the stock battery location which is best place for them.

Take the truck to a local hobby shop and test fit batteries for fit.

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Percymon, you mentioned servo plates. Any more info on them?

they are not so much servo plates, but reinforcing plates that help reinforce the central part of the chassis tub - they weren't part of the original Clod Buster but were added from the superClod onwards. There are three plates in total - one either side behind the 8mm balls that the link arms attach to, and another that spans the servo mounting area.

They are part of the SuperClod press parts bag - item 9400114

You can see them on page 6 of the Super Clod manual, available here http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58321ml.pdf

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I can't thank you all enough. So proud and happy to be a member here at TC. Thank you much!

I've been looking into Crawford performance engineering parts for the steering. I may just go with the Tamiya esc because it's easier and that I'm really not going to bash this one too hard.

I was thinking of this battery, but just not sure if it's the best option. I really prefer lipo.

82262483-2B86-421F-AC66-EA2159FDA62A_zps

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I can't thank you all enough. So proud and happy to be a member here at TC. Thank you much!

I've been looking into Crawford performance engineering parts for the steering. I may just go with the Tamiya esc because it's easier and that I'm really not going to bash this one too hard.

I was thinking of this battery, but just not sure if it's the best option. I really prefer lipo.

82262483-2B86-421F-AC66-EA2159FDA62A_zps

Don't bother, too big and bulky. Todays nimh batteries have nearly as much capacity in a standard size pack and fit in the stock battery slot.

Same for lipos which are even lighter.

That big battery is "old school". If you get the Tamiya esc then you need to add a lipo cut off.

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Crawford really is the best place for clod parts. Brett really takes care of his customers

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I built and upgraded 2 vintage clodbusters 2 months back.

a5usy9u3.jpg

A custom 4 link setup really is the only way to go. I got the mounts from Crawford also but made the links up myself with piano wire soldered into m3 pushrod links, then they were sleeves over with brass tubing. Extremely strong. I used fastrax heavy dusty end links.

azapu5er.jpgu2eda2yh.jpguta5udyv.jpg

The super clodbuster that was the re re had 3 plates inside the chassis for reinforcement. I bought these off eBay and also used crawfords aluminume centre skid plate. Makes the chassis über strong.

I also went for the traxxas big bore shocks. They are however very hard, so I changed the internal dampers to the 2 hole setup and increased the hole size to 2mm. I then removed one spring from each wheel corner.

(Not shown in the pictures) They work well and look really good.

My clodbuster is lengthened by 2" overall to give in more ride stability.

If you would like more pictures let me know.

James.

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Oh and your Clod is a beaut!

I'm sure you mean SteveU30's clod ;)

Percymon did a great job on it but I like you wanted to take it a bit further without going too far like yourself.

It came to me with the aforementioned Traxxas shocks and Torque Tuned motors running off the Tamiya TEU-106 ESC and when coupled with a LiPo makes for an excellent runner.

The only thing left to sort really is the steering as has already been mentioned. I have just received from Crawford all the parts required to put a servo on each axle. This is a relatively simple mod and while I haven't fitted it yet I'm told it makes a heck of a difference!

243183E2-4DD5-40F6-8799-1AFD6C58A49D_zps

You also need a servo Y-lead to split the signal from the receiver to each servo and then either a signal reverser (very cheap) or a quick (but slightly fiddly) mod to one of the servos to make it turn in the opposite direction to the other one:

E40EA4F3-D03A-4A48-B6C7-C3E8BA73F028_zps

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I did the same Steve but I got a set off Mattziller's metal servo cages skid boxes for mine in the end as the servo was getting smashed at the front all the time.

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Thanks again gents...yesterday I went ahead and ordered a bunch of parts. Shocks, savöx monster torque servo, a receiver, ball bearings, an esc, CPE steering links and chassis brace, servo plates, and the ESP alloy ball bearing steering links. My pockets are officially empty until next payday :(

The no name esc I found on eBay is designed for dual motors and is rated as:

Motor Limit: Dual 540

Input Voltage: 4-12 NiCd/NiMH cells (1.2V per cell) or 4S LiPo cell

Weight: 88g

Size: 45mm x 31mm x 20mm

BEC: 5V/1A

Rated current: 150A

Connectors: Futaba J, Standard for Battery, Bullet Motor (all pre-installed)

So I think I should be fine with this. Next step is the decision on motor and battery. Most likely I will use a 2s lipo, possibly 3 if it'll fit.

I was thinking of sport tuned motors, but honestly, have never really been impressed by them. I'm considering 23T super stock BZ motors set at zero timing. Still not sure though.

Ideally, I would like a motor made by Tamiya, but am still open to options. I've researched and seen that the HPI firebolt 15T is commonly used. I'm not really looking to make it a speed demon/basher (I have my twin detonator for that), and definitely don't want it to be a slow crawler. Just something with a little more pep.

Again, thank you all for your input. Greatly appreciated.

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I wouldn't worry about motors just yet, see how it is on LiPo first and go from there. I think you'll find that even silver cans on 3S will be more than adequate.

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I wouldn't worry about motors just yet, see how it is on LiPo first and go from there. I think you'll find that even silver cans on 3S will be more than adequate.

Good to know, but nothing leaves my work shop with a stock motor :D

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More pictures!!!

Max

I built and upgraded 2 vintage clodbusters 2 months back. a5usy9u3.jpg A custom 4 link setup really is the only way to go. I got the mounts from Crawford also but made the links up myself with piano wire soldered into m3 pushrod links, then they were sleeves over with brass tubing. Extremely strong. I used fastrax heavy dusty end links. azapu5er.jpgu2eda2yh.jpguta5udyv.jpg The super clodbuster that was the re re had 3 plates inside the chassis for reinforcement. I bought these off eBay and also used crawfords aluminume centre skid plate. Makes the chassis über strong. I also went for the traxxas big bore shocks. They are however very hard, so I changed the internal dampers to the 2 hole setup and increased the hole size to 2mm. I then removed one spring from each wheel corner. (Not shown in the pictures) They work well and look really good. My clodbuster is lengthened by 2" overall to give in more ride stability. If you would like more pictures let me know. James.

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Amazing work James, thanks for sharing. I really like the 4 link set up you fabricated.

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