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Winter project: TG10 Mk1 brushless conversion

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Today I started on my winter project. I will be taking another Tamiya nitro vehicle and making it brushless.

I won the bid on this TG10 recently on eBay, at a really good price.

These are some of the pics posted by the seller:

E95A52A3-A72D-417F-AB1F-57F014789CA3_zps

42CCDCBF-BEC4-4895-888B-CB001DA236EF_zps

76F0A4A4-0717-47C2-9E6B-08C496989830_zps

A1C40460-C952-43FB-8FAC-F24569D7E59E_zps

And, as I received it:

A693F37E-1FD6-4DED-955C-B4564DBE0802_zps

It's in really good shape, no cracks or major damage that I can see (so far). It looks as if it has been in storage for quite some time. Plenty of oxidation on the hardware, as well as dust, dirt, and nitro grime.

I've had an Audi A4 Avant shell that I've been wanting to use, but never had a chassis that it would fit properly. I dropped it on top of the TG10 chassis, and it looks like it may just work with these wide wheels.

1379CCF1-B4A0-45F9-AE0E-8AA81969FFCD_zps

Starting to disassemble the chassis:

D81ABE0B-649A-4AB6-BF0F-C9DC9499C68F_zps

Paper weights :D

22BCD99D-FF7A-47EE-9E3A-3D67DC8A9715_zps

Chassis with engine and fuel tank removed:

BBFB5B27-54AF-4403-8CB0-765FA4B18B0E_zps

The steering servo mounts to the upper deck, on the right hand side of the vehicle:

1AAB52FF-E494-4813-8091-6307E872052B_zps

I moved it to the left side of the chassis, switching over the steering links, and drilling holes in the chassis plate:

7236D207-B441-41D0-B59A-45BC1C21991D_zps

3845A664-F23A-476F-B70C-4EF655A762B4_zps

Motor mount:

87766A8E-DAF4-4436-9545-1B5068B6011B_zps

The motor I plan to use:

E650353A-2952-4175-8C88-933EBDF05F6D_zps

Mount marked for cutting:

74219D4C-D5C7-403D-AE2F-A98033E507DF_zps

E5F9565B-CDB7-4676-825C-944692FF1CF5_zps

Drilled and fitted:

41E6441C-571F-447A-A145-8F4D63A415F8_zps

Motor fitted:

5BD1DFC0-C1D2-4734-940C-FFEC2529B092_zps

1C798C56-C7EB-423F-9B7C-F8B06AF82933_zps

Mock-up of battery location (I will be using a 2s Lipo when finished):

7C91FE76-1AE4-433A-AE6C-0C19BBBB07FA_zps

Mocking up ESC location:

BF727485-0086-4941-BB83-F67680D90C69_zps

Wheels and body posts fitted:

F820774E-D818-44EF-9589-59E2327F454A_zps

And it looks like the body will be just right :)

2A7A87D1-D190-4EDF-9E61-C5104769606B_zps

D1F774E4-CAD3-4DDB-A73B-000FEF9637FB_zps

Now that I have the majority of the mocking up finished, my next step is to disassemble, clean, and re-grease/lubricate everything. I'd like to replace all or as much of the hardware as I can. And I'm also waiting on some carbon fiber plates. I will be making my own upper deck and copying the lower deck out of the carbon fiber.

Thanks for viewing and stay tuned for more!

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This is nice and should go in the build section.

Can't wait to see the carbon plates.

Not sure bout the motor position.

Somebody said me that the motor on the left side gives problem of torque steer. You should move it to the other side but if someone knows the matter better than me please correct me.

Max

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Thanks Max..your theory makes sense..I just put the motor in the original engine location, as I did in my TGX conversion. I've never driven a TG10 with the glow engine before to compare. I guess we'll have to wait and see!

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I will be watching how this turns out :)

I recently acquired a tg10,

nitro isn't really me, but not sure I would take the engine out of it

Is that a mod 1 pinion?

should be pretty quick with that 3.5t

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Good work there Sir . Very neat and tidy . looking forward to hearing how well it runs .

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I will be watching how this turns out :)

 

I recently acquired a tg10,

nitro isn't really me, but not sure I would take the engine out of it

 

Is that a mod 1 pinion?

 

should be pretty quick with that 3.5t

The pinion is 32 pitch, 17 or 18 tooth. I had it laying around in my spares bin and it's just for mock-up. Once everything is sorted, I will pick up a hardened one, just not sure which size yet.

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Very cool! Did you make your own motor mount?

Thank you...the motor mount I found on eBay, and it required minor trimming and drilling to make it fit. I think it's originally for a Traxxas nitro to electric conversion.

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Torque steer is really a thing of the past with modern brushless motors, due to the light weight of the rotor :)

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Today my carbon fiber arrived and I got started on the lower deck. I'm pleased with the outcome, much easier than I expected.

The carbon plate:

26905103-E7BD-42C6-957D-EA4A114BD493_zps

Original lower deck:

ACF88B28-4C74-4E52-BB40-9E0BFFF59A49_zps

Ready for drilling:

7BF2B9EC-2F5D-41F3-90AD-1445549D375C_zps

Drilled with screws and nuts fitted to hold the plates together tightly:

E58518DD-150E-422A-903B-98E1FD656AB6_zps

B56A880B-F5CA-45E3-9F5B-565A4347013A_zps

Lower deck shape cut:

BBDDCA48-C41C-413A-9EC3-B4E9248922A0_zps

8318CD31-07D6-4DC9-85E1-05271568421B_zps

And the two side by side:

164727AA-5A5D-4FFC-9705-849E2C84C58D_zps

And reassembled to make sure everything is correct:

728A3E79-2B87-4115-81B8-AA84F3DCF2A7_zps

539948B9-5A91-48A6-A561-B48236B42B41_zps

577DE5F7-7946-4B72-BD5E-550289469A19_zps

09387E8D-F72E-4535-8196-DED63EA4D42D_zps

I will be replacing all the hardware with countersunk hex screws once I know everything is perfect. Over the weekend I hope to make the upper deck and order the necessary hardware, as well as start looking for available hop-ups, an esc, and a battery.

Once that's all sorted, I will strip is down completely and replace all the bearings, and give it a thorough cleaning/re-lube.

:)

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I Really like that chassis plate :wub:

Might have to buy some carbon fibre :ph34r:

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Today I completed the upper deck, and things are going in the right direction, rather quickly I might add B)

I started the upper deck by tracing the lower deck onto a piece of cardboard, to make a template:

44DF2B42-3FDA-4BC3-B86E-51CCEFE2A968_zps

F7D0E11E-1224-414B-952C-F4F00B047A72_zps

With some trimming, some trial and error, and patience, the final shape of the template was completed:

808BA798-BD9A-4B85-B3F0-182675F97FA5_zps

EA1CB3A8-E38B-4275-91EC-D9221627F0A6_zps

Getting ready to cut the carbon fiber:

435D049C-7DC6-4731-9518-E3A09107A8AD_zps

And fitted to the chassis

C2B749BB-0419-4C86-B434-3EC89C3D5C57_zps

The triangles that I cut into the plate seemed like a good idea at first, but looked horrible in my opinion, especially since I rushed and didn't properly measure all of my proportions:

2842A85B-EB64-442B-83A0-2535D30654F8_zps

A3E8EB96-61D9-4E30-8970-18D9CA5E3D28_zps

So I decided to have another go at the cut outs, this time ditching the triangle idea for a rounded look, which I think looks 100x better:

BDDE9505-D81E-4967-862A-01754FEAE700_zps

I also made some support plates out of aluminum for added strength at the gear box attachment points:

ACBD1C77-B39E-437B-93B9-B3A76E040905_zps

6C1F9087-CA91-434C-BF0B-4ED259AE592B_zps

I still need to take it off again to make some of the lines a little more crisp and cleaner:

24BC354D-4DEB-419C-8F68-24920A96C4B6_zps

I removed the original hardware, drilled the chassis with a countersink bit, and fitted countersunk hardware:

6DC1E604-7B69-4672-AC4B-243E7BB5E666_zps

And fitted some springs I had laying around:

B9E84745-5355-4293-AE28-FCC8F970B1FF_zps

8BBEC4F5-8FD5-4555-B62C-208B5651D256_zps

And that's it for now..stay tuned for more :)

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Really liking this, will be wtchng it develop.

The rounded cut outs are a big improvement over the triangles.

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Dont know if i missed it.... but what you doing with the engine setup and exhaust ?

Right now it's collecting more dust..the carburetor is gummed up but can be cleaned, and the engine does turn freely.

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PM me, not sure where you are located. May not be worth the price of shipping. Besides, I can not guarantee if it runs. I may just clean it up to leave on display as I did with my TGX engine.

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Fresh off of my Boomerang build, I jumped back on the TG10 brushless project.

With some time and patience, I sourced out some hop ups and some replacement parts:

590499B5-2564-43AC-92A5-250AACC75C31_zps

Savox low profile servo and Tamiya servo saver:

4FB70BB3-6295-43DB-AE04-1B0489AFAE49_zps

Tamiya alloy steering hop up:

0602C4E5-262F-40D3-8194-ACB2418EA356_zps

Hopping up the hop up :D with sealed bearings:

932F196D-8471-4A09-83FF-313A231293D6_zps

Before:

C6ED753B-FB04-4EEF-A6EA-E45EBDB3C87F_zps

After:

9183262B-BF10-4CBE-935D-8E2B04C37BA5_zps

Front gear box removed:

B750FB17-7236-44AE-8687-9533B9B9E89F_zps

A better look at the steering hop up:

F7936AB0-5F51-4BB5-A38D-46374AD0B060_zps

Suspension arms removed from the gear box:

B4F418C2-E8D2-4665-863E-9CF44BFFE646_zps

Arms removed and new long arm suspension hop up laid out:

AD78D52E-FF42-4FDE-AB30-D144E1ACB1D8_zps

Differential diasassembled:

8B6EB364-DC71-444A-97C7-05553D91B913_zps

I used the Tamiya turn buckle tie rod hop up for upper arms so that I can have camber adjustability:

CBD45576-679A-4C95-96E2-E734EEE7BF37_zps

Stabilizer set:

7190D2ED-C9B1-4FB8-85C5-51BEA0CA0BD1_zps

F7AF2301-EFDE-4A0E-B19B-5EE7AB198CD2_zps

And back on the chassis:

AF63B4A7-DA51-47A5-9D3A-D06B8311758B_zps

Steering servo mounted, and turn buckles for the steering links fitted for easy adjustments:

4B790398-844E-42EC-9F0C-9170F99ADEBA_zps

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On to the rear of the vehicle:

93BDC35B-2E30-42DA-A212-CE6B360F0BE0_zps

Rear gear box removed:

2AC27463-4BAD-4A6D-865C-2234A485B809_zps

Disassembled:

FB0699B7-0448-4964-B368-E68F4C722267_zps

Long arms vs. standard 2 piece arms:

B2ADEF55-FAB7-4257-A113-C74A8EC8E0B6_zps

All ball ends on the vehicle were replaced with Tamiya hop up ball ends:

C70D5EE0-6865-41E6-8DF4-D176B666B537_zps

Back on the chassis:

7FDFC84B-D4BE-47D6-9F89-90F7F49EFB84_zps

TRF damper set:

1655625A-2EEA-47E7-9D36-B3B995324D01_zps

861FD646-A579-4FA1-A308-5CA5042DF670_zps

Versus standard dampers:

1475B4C3-F924-405A-8B80-054F01047A4C_zps

In the rear:

EABCBE5B-AB9F-44D4-9193-EF1CA97BD9F8_zps

Up front:

E770469A-4E97-472C-8906-455F5C3D1E20_zps

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Cut some slots out in the lower deck for battery straps (not the cleanest, but I have since filed them evenly) :

43E10F9C-F1E7-44BF-A785-81B21867DD8E_zps

Straps fed through the chassis, and I fitted some pads to cushion the battery a bit:

C683DA50-6797-4028-B82E-E0B0CCCE4348_zps

Venom 2s 5000mah battery ready to go:

CA9D473B-DA90-4AA2-BFDF-7C7841D3CE51_zps

And with the upper deck reinstalled:

AAE3DB5D-8712-49AC-9532-52B21C7CEDD0_zps

136EF09F-C33B-4DA8-BBC1-64799F77D625_zps

That's it for now. I need to decide which esc I will use, mount the receiver, and fit the stealth body mounts, and I think it'll be done :blink:

Thanks for viewing!

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I finally got a chance to get back in this project. My biggest hurdle was getting a proper esc. Since I'm running a 3.5T brushless, esc's are limited and are quite expensive. I found one from Tekin, but it was still expensive at over $200. Then I came across Alien Power System esc's. Much more affordable, and they can handle the power. So I went with the 3.5T 120A version.

Here's the car again.

d16f27f0543cdfce594852e5c885221d.jpg

25cad3a40ff6dab1adb3a7c3e4810328.jpg

The Alien esc.

8be79a2caca18974237e8f4e51749ce3.jpg

1cc3137e1a9e06bc454570c9b407ddbe.jpg

Getting ready for soldering.

229a3a82f814fd3095f9c63e30df0d44.jpg

Attaching the leads.

8fe3ec6756e7aba39fb741653580874d.jpg

f67e38c36bb6a4a92ef8da5e362fac1c.jpg

Into the chassis.

f615927c138898a98598f06743103b41.jpg

8c1924cea6099714820fcb0a09d45351.jpg

4fb0de1f8d5f87d7c88dbde953b0f2d5.jpg

And I decided to dress up the wheels as well with some flat black paint.

Before.

11160ff7fa192399e2b878e3948cd1e0.jpg

And after.

17afbaf1b02e9f77c4d223efed304964.jpg

To complete the wheel, I added black wheel nuts, and glued the tires.

7db4da0efa49869d32c8744405eb3083.jpg

Here's the reason why I needed to glue the tires [emoji16]

(Don't mind the music)

https://vimeo.com/141474871

Thanks for viewing!

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