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Nitomor

Correct solder -Flux, non flux, rosin etc?!

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Hello all,

I'm looking to get a temperature controlled soldering iron finally for more delicate work - 'Aoyue' brand. It has been on the shopping list for a few years but I've always made do with my gas soldering iron but I'd like more control to carry out neater working in smaller environments.

With solder, for my motorbike regulator it seemd the one to go for is a rosin core flux solder. There are so many options out there, lead, non lead, different thicknesses, with flux, without, rosin, halide free blah blah blah.

I really don't know what to get, the cost varies wildly too from a tenner a reel to £30. I'm not so worried about the cost because a reel will last me ages anyway, I just want the one that will be the most effective, reliable and neat.

This is for use on connectors mainly, such as soldering bullet connectors onto wires and such like.

Any advice or pointers would be gratefully received. It's a 60w iron 200-480 degrees c as part of a soldering station set with pre heater and hot air gun both 500w 100-480 degrees c.

si-866-main_1.jpg

Or is this 70w version stand alone iron a better bet;

2930-main.jpg

Thanks

Nito

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Personally, I just use a 60/40 Tin/lead Rosin core solder for all of my electrical work..

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Personally, I just use a 60/40 Tin/lead Rosin core solder for all of my electrical work..

Me too, and I think the majority of people who do electronics as a hobby still do.

My small soldering station is a Weller WHS-40, that is fine with regular electronics. Although I wish I had chosen an 80 W station instead for some tougher work with heat sinks, thick connectors and screening metal sheets involved.

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Cheers Greg,

I think I'm leaning toward the more compact 70w iron, I can't really see me doing pcb's!!

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I use "old style" normal leaded (60/40) cored solder and a syringe with no-clean flux, for when it doesn't come out pretty from the first try or I pre-tin wires and connectors.

For reference, a 48w iron with a wide tip seems to just do the job, allows me to solder power connectors (deans) at max power; wide tip is essential because, being wider therefor having more metal, it has higher thermal inertia. I'd like a bit more power but I can get the job done.

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Thanks Dan. I'll order up the same as you guys. It comes in varying thicknesses so I was going to get this;

http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/autosol-ra-solder-reel-250g-16swg-sn63-pb37-2-lux.html

They also sell flux pens and syringes, paste, liquid. Is it worth getting that then. What's even better now is thar on Black Friday I checked their website and their was no discount, today the have a cyber monday 15% off so I'm glad I was too busy to order on Friday!!

So do you think at 70w I'll be ok with the stock thin tip?

Cheers

Nito

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Stay away from lead free solder, it's a PITA to use. I have tried silver solder and the working temperature is higher and it doesn't flow as easily so is harder to get good joints with it. Good old el cheapo tin-lead rosin core 60/40 or 62/38 or 63/37 is easiest to work with. Get a non-acid flux pen to go with it, and a desoldering sucker/pump.

You need a wide bevel tip and a fair bit of wattage grunt to solder fatter wires and connectors. I use a Hakko FX-888D and it's a joy to use.

- J

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Thanks for the feedback, I didn't get a flux pen. Will the flux in the wire not suffice? I'm going to be soldering some deans connectors later this week. Will the wire adhere ok to the connector without seperate flux?

I've played with the iron, the difference against my old weller is incredible. It gets to the preset 354 degrees in a matter of seconds, like under 10!

Thanks

Nito

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Thanks for the tip (pun, ish?) ;)

I'll see how shiny it gets as is. So that's the secret to shiny solder!

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