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emory70

Shock shaft pliers

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So I'm getting tired of the cardboard and needlenose trick for building my shocks. I'm ready to spend the money on some decent shock pliers.

What do you folks use? I'm not interested in the Tamiya style with the hinge at the end. I'm leaning towards the Losi, but I hate the idea of spending money on a tool I can't touch first.

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I have the TLR ( team losi Racing ) shock shaft pliers . TLR 99101 .

Nice pliers . But it's still NIP :lol: ... Not sure why .

Must be an adiction of leaving things NIP :D ..

But they are bulky handeled a mate has said & he's 6 foot big guy .

So i can't say to much on the matter . I'm sure they work fine &

would get used to it .

size in pic .

1c4555cb49d8fee1dd87512f12448ea3_zpsba7e

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FWIW, I use "Flush Cutters". They are small and work awesome. Might be a more affordable approach and can be bought at a good hardware store. They were originally designed for use cutting things such as small zip-ties close enough that the cut is flush and no sharp edges. They also just work remarkably well for building dampers properly. They are great for an RC toolbox for sure:

46.477.jpg

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I use the TRF ones and like them, but I can see how you'd prefer regular hinges and handles.

I've also used the Tamiya Non-scratch pliers for this, but they're a bit too slippery.

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FWIW, I use "Flush Cutters". They are small and work awesome. Might be a more affordable approach and can be bought at a good hardware store. They were originally designed for use cutting things such as small zip-ties close enough that the cut is flush and no sharp edges. They also just work remarkably well for building dampers properly. They are great for an RC toolbox for sure:

46.477.jpg

I should have reiterated how I use these for what you are describing. I think the correct term is "micro flush cutter" for the correct size. I think I watched it on ultimate RC and just happened to have a set for working on network equipment, but what you do is get a set of micro flush cutters above, you take the flush and flat side and face that down towards the threads, then use "bite side" NOT on the smooth shaft of the damper rod, but you clamp on to the last thread or two. This way you can tighten the rod-end all the way up the threads to the last bit, but you have enough bite with the flush cutters on the thread that it won't spin on you, you aren't harming the smooth part of the shaft, and there isn't enough force to cut or harm the damper rod/shaft. I hope that makes sense and helps.

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I've seen that trick. But on my G Made shocks, the ball link goes all the way up to the end of the threads

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I'm using these with good success:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools-accessories-80/tools-74000/non-scratch-long-nose-pliers-74065

To make them work well, the shock shaft needs to be freed from remaining oil or grease, otherwise it will slip.

I use the same pliers. They do work, but takes a lot of strength to squeeze hard enough near the end of screwing in the ball cup. I wish the handle was longer or the bevel cutout in the plastic insert was closer to the pivot point for more leverage.

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I like to pre-thread the plastic holes with a regular screw before. This makes screwing in the shock shaft easier using the pliers.

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