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pl212

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About pl212

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    Menlo Park, CA USA

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  1. (Not to derail this thread with more Tower Hobbies drama, but count me as another 25-year customer who is disgusted with the way they have handled this. Surly customer chat, no actual order status... I was a February pre-order and they have no idea if my order will arrive. They use language such as 'if we are able to send you your order' in chat. Feels like I'm very close to a credit card chargeback -- in the States, I don't think CC providers are OK with stores that have no order tracking, ETA, or other status...) However if/when my BBX does arrive I'll be sure to post pics!
  2. From today's promotional email from Tamiya USA: Updated Release Date: July 20
  3. Good question; my Feb 15th order with them now has an internal status of “Backorder”, without any further details (and no estimated month.)
  4. To do the “spare tyre on roof” look, I assume one would need: 51715 Buggy Wheels (Plated) (4 Pcs.) 51716 Buggy Front Tires (2 Pcs.) Guess there’s no way of knowing for sure without the manual?
  5. @Hibernaculum, any chance you'd do a write-up of the LaTrax on your excellent site? I know this particular thread is ancient, but my curiosity was piqued when I noticed this buggy in a 1982 Sharper Image catalog:
  6. Great work! Would you consider sharing these, perhaps as a torrent, so that others could regularize their collection? Wonder if there are some copies that have better audio or video, that might benefit from combining streams from two different files...
  7. As a 959 owner I’ve been interested in these too, but I recall the consensus in the forum was that the additional strength of these metal parts would just transfer stress to other plastic parts, including those more integral to the body and difficult to replace. Curious what folks think...
  8. Tower has put a pre-order online for $204, expected late June... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNRD&P=7
  9. For those in the States, Tower has it for US$99, available late March: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNRE&P=7
  10. Wasn't there a thread many years ago where folks discussed who the announcer was? I recall that it was disclosed he had passed away (not surprising given the time period here). Was he an employee of Tamiya USA?
  11. Based on a tip from this page on RC Car Action, I tried cutting the overspray mask around the driver and painting that area white. Looks grim during the process... ...but after removing the mask, it's all good: I've tried out the included driver-area stickers for now, but just can't see them lasting very long. They're trying to cover highly irregular surfaces. I'll probably do some hand-painting once they inevitably fall off or get dirt stuck under them.
  12. Happy to find another car in which I can use the $$$ Tamiya LF Battery LF1100-6.6V Racing Pack (M-Size)!
  13. Agree; I ended up putting unused metal bushings -- three of them -- under the front mount to push it up, instead of the two thin washers recommended. I used those washers instead in the rear which otherwise would have had nothing to elevate it. I do find the body required a lot more "tweaking" than I was used to, having only built Tamiya kits before. The window treatments, for example -- yours look great, and clearly imitate the way the box art is, rather than using the included stickers to simulate the netting. It's not clear if you're supposed to cut all the windows out, or cut just the areas between the sidebars and paint them black, or leave the windows in place and use the decals...? Another area of confusion is the shell around the rear shock mounts. The instructions don't really indicate how much should be cut out, and how far back? I had to cut at least a small area away past that, or else the rear suspension will collide with the bottom of the shell. Overall I'm very impressed with the RC10, especially when running it. But I find that building a nice example is hampered by the fact that many AE/RC10 fans don't seem to take the modeling/scale aspect as seriously as the Tamiya fan base, which results in a lack of well-finished models to look at online for guidance. Yours is an exception of course!
  14. What's odd to me is exactly how the doggone binding is caused, or fixed, by the various screws holding the metal rods in place. I have been able to fix the problems by following the advice above (pull the arms outwards, tighten the inner screw first) but am trying to understand if the problem is originally caused by: 1) The rod holders turning due to the screws being tightened underneath, or 2) The rod holders being pulled too far down due to the same. Put another way, what exactly does pulling the arms outwards ensure when tightening the screws?
  15. So on the original gold-pan re-release (not Worlds Car) -- anyone else find the stickers / decals to be absurdly thick? Rather impossible to get them to curve around the body at all. They're so thick, in fact, that I'm not sure the hairdryer trick would work...
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