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Tequila

New to Tamiya

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I just setup my neofighter kit (the frog) and I've been reading up on brushless motors a lot recently. My esc says it is brushless compatible but requires you to set it up for brushless? Also how would I install a brushless motor and would I need to buy a new tooth thing? I have a 17t one currently.

Sorry for not being able to explain in detail as I'm still learning.

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You will have a TBLE02S ESC which was included within the kit. You need to source a sensored brushless motor - hopefully you were supplied with a sensor cable too, but no worries if you weren't - they are very cheap.

The ESC can take any brushless motor above 10.5T. In a DT03 I would recommend something like a 13.5T.

Your standard pinion gear with 17 teeth is fine in theory but with the added torque and speed of a brushless motor you really should replace it with something more hard-wearing. Again, Steel Pinions in 08 Module are easily available, tamiya themselves released some recently.

The change to lipo isn't entirety necessary due to the increased efficiency of the brushless technology, but your Nimh batteries won't last quite as long as they currently do. But if you do consider lipo in the future it is another step up in performance again.

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You will have a TBLE02S ESC which was included within the kit. You need to source a sensored brushless motor - hopefully you were supplied with a sensor cable too, but no worries if you weren't - they are very cheap.

The ESC can take any brushless motor above 10.5T. In a DT03 I would recommend something like a 13.5T.

Your standard pinion gear with 17 teeth is fine in theory but with the added torque and speed of a brushless motor you really should replace it with something more hard-wearing. Again, Steel Pinions in 08 Module are easily available, tamiya themselves released some recently.

The change to lipo isn't entirety necessary due to the increased efficiency of the brushless technology, but your Nimh batteries won't last quite as long as they currently do. But if you do consider lipo in the future it is another step up in performance again.

The esc has 3 different coloured cables coming off it. I only use 2 to connect to the motor and the other one is left

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The first thing to ask is what do you want to achieve. Are you new to Tamiya or new to the hobby.

If new to the hobby then run the silvercan and drive, drive, drive until you "need" more speed.

The Turngiy motors from Hobby king are good and come with a sensor cable. Steel pinion is a couple of quid posted out from Japan. I would agree a 13.5t motor is good for the DT-03 a 10.5 is tempting for the same money but will be a bit OTT.

Added to that there were no pictures in your post, we like pictures :-p

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As ChrisRx718 correctly pointed out, you need a 17t 0.8 module pinion for your car. The Amazon one you linked to is waaay too small.

The best fit would be a Tamiya pinion, in steel for longevity. This one would be ideal:

http://www.goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/mobile_product_info.php?products_id=57354&osCsid=f9hrq7qjvnvsckgsn6r2vko3c2

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As ChrisRx718 correctly pointed out, you need a 17t 0.8 module pinion for your car. The Amazon one you linked to is waaay too small.

The best fit would be a Tamiya pinion, in steel for longevity. This one would be ideal:

http://www.goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/mobile_product_info.php?products_id=57354&osCsid=f9hrq7qjvnvsckgsn6r2vko3c2

Thankyou :)

Is brushed motors just as good as brushless? I've been looking at this?

540 Motor Brushed 12 Turn

Designed to work with 12 turn ESCs or above.

Specifications:

12x2 turns

32.000 rpm

165 watt

7.2 - 7.4 volt

Size 540

Shaft length: 12,3mm

Shaft Ø 3,18mm

Motor length 53,2mm

Motor Ø 35,7 mm

Part Number: 2310072

Made by: Absima

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Brushed motors and brushless motors are essentially mirror images of each other. A brushed motor has a bunch of coiled wire spinning around inside a set of permanent magnets fixed to the motor casing, while a brushless motor has a set of permanent magnets spinning around inside (or sometimes outside) a bunch of coiled wire fixed to the motor casing.

The coils of wire have to be energised by electricity in order for the motor to work, which is fine if they are fixed to the motor casing, but a bit more complicated if they are spinning around inside. To carry the power to the spinning coils, brushed motors use a pair of spring-loaded contacts (called brushes) pressing against a round copper thing (called a commutator) which is in turn connected to the coils.

As the brushed motor spins, the brushes and commutator rub against each other, generating heat and sparks, wasting energy, causing wear-and-tear, etc. However a brushless motor has no such issues, and can therefore typically run more efficiently with little or no maintenance required.

How you use this extra efficiency is up to you. You could choose a motor that gives the same performance as an equivalent brushed one, in which case you would benefit from longer runtimes. Or you could choose a brushless motor that gives the same runtime as an equivalent brushed one, in which case you would benefit from extra performance. Most people do a bit of both, choosing brushless motors that are both better-performing and capable of longer runtimes than their brushed gear.

I take it you are using the speed controller that came with your kit? If so, the Absima 12 turn brushed motor you mention will not be suitable, as the speed controller can only handle down to 25 turns in brushed mode. (Lower turns = more current draw = more stress on the speed controller.)

However if you switch it to brushless mode, it can go down to 10 turns. For your buggy I would go for something around the 13.5 turn range, giving a good balance between extra power and extra runtime.

This one here would work with your speed controller and fit your buggy nicely:

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__21955__Turnigy_TrackStar_13_5T_Sensored_Brushless_Motor_3040KV_ROAR_approved_.html

If you want to stay with brushed technology, this motor would work without over stressing your speed controller:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sv2-method-25x2/rc-car-products/23569

However it wouldn't be as fast as the brushless one, it would require more maintenance, and runtimes are likely to be less than with the stock kit motor.

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Brushed motors and brushless motors are essentially mirror images of each other. A brushed motor has a bunch of coiled wire spinning around inside a set of permanent magnets fixed to the motor casing, while a brushless motor has a set of permanent magnets spinning around inside (or sometimes outside) a bunch of coiled wire fixed to the motor casing.

The coiled wire has to be energised by electricity in order for the motor to work, which is fine if they are fixed to the motor casing, but a bit more complicated if they are spinning around inside. To carry the power to the spinning coils, brushed motors use a pair of spring-loaded contacts (called brushes) pressing against a round copper thing (called a commutator) which is in turn connected to the coils.

As the brushed motor spins, the brushes and commutator rub against each other, generating heat and sparks, wasting energy, causing wear-and-tear, etc. However a brushless motor has no such issues, and can therefore typically run more efficiently with little or no maintenance required.

How you use this extra efficiency is up to you. You could choose a motor that gives the same performance as an equivalent brushed one, in which case you would benefit from longer runtimes. Or you could choose a brushless motor that gives the same runtime as an equivalent brushed one, in which case you would benefit from extra performance. Most people do a bit of both, choosing brushless motors that are both better-performing and capable of longer runtimes than their brushed gear.

I take it you are using the speed controller that came with your kit? If so, the Absima 12 turn brushed motor you mention will not be suitable, as the speed controller can only handle down to 25 turns in brushed mode. (Lower turns = more current draw = more stress on the speed controller.)

However if you switch it to brushless mode, it can go down to 10 turns. For your buggy I would go for something around the 13.5 turn range, giving a good balance between extra power and extra runtime.

This one here would work with your speed controller and fit your buggy nicely:http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__21955__Turnigy_TrackStar_13_5T_Sensored_Brushless_Motor_3040KV_ROAR_approved_.html

If you want to stay with brushed technology, this motor would work without over stressing your speed controller:http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sv2-method-25x2/rc-car-products/23569

However it wouldn't be as fast as the brushless one, it would require more maintenance, and runtimes are likely to be less than with the stock kit motor.

Ok thanks but where are the coloured cables that plug in?

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Ok thanks but where are the coloured cables that plug in?

You need to solder them onto the tabs on the back of the motor.

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I don't think so, no. Most people don't bother with them, as the Tamiya motor plugs have resistance, and it is more efficient to solder the ESC wires straight onto the motor terminals, like I have done here on my M-05:

DSC04900_zpslelxowph.jpg

The wires that come fitted to your speed controller should be long enough, but if you need to extend them, this wire is suitable:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/mtroniks-14-gauge-silicone-wire-black-1-metre/rc-car-products/28749

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I don't think so, no. Most people don't bother with them, as the Tamiya motor plugs have resistance, and it is more efficient to solder the ESC wires straight onto the motor terminals, like I have done here on my M-05:DSC04900_zpslelxowph.jpg

The wires that come fitted to your speed controller should be long enough, but if you need to extend them, this wire is suitable:http://www.modelsport.co.uk/mtroniks-14-gauge-silicone-wire-black-1-metre/rc-car-products/28749

The blue orange yellow wires from the esc aren't long enough to reach all the way to the back where the motor is. Could I buy the wires you suggested to extend all 3 so it will reach and then solder it all together?

I found this on Amazon, would it work the same as the one you suggested? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Foxnovo-Gauge-Flexible-Silicone-Battery/dp/B00RE0X56U

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Yes you could, and yes it would. :)

If you don't already have some, you might as well order some heat shrink tubing too, to insulate the cable joints once you have soldered them. It looks far neater than insulation tape, and is less likely to come off.

This is the pack I use:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-61262-Shrink-Assortment-Pieces-x/dp/B00NIM0PHU/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1441178802&sr=1-2&keywords=Heat+shrink

It gives a neat, professional look to the joints:

DSC03950_zpsqx7xwxfs.jpg

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Yes you could, and yes it would. :)

If you don't already have some, you might as well order some heat shrink tubing too, to insulate the cable joints once you have soldered them. It looks far neater than insulation tape, and is less likely to come off.

This is the pack I use:http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-61262-Shrink-Assortment-Pieces-x/dp/B00NIM0PHU/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1441178802&sr=1-2&keywords=Heat+shrink

It gives a neat, professional look to the joints:DSC03950_zpsqx7xwxfs.jpg

Ok thankyou :) and how do I know which wire is the correct one to connect to from the motor because I remember certain ones have to connect to a certain colour from the motor?

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The motor terminals are marked A, B and C.

A = blue

B = yellow

C = orange

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The motor terminals are marked A, B and C.

A = blue

B = yellow

C = orange

So aslong as I remember to connect them to the corresponding ones I should be fine? I thought I had to buy a specific colour of wire for each one haha

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That is correct. The only difference between the different wire colours is the pigment in the insulation. The copper stuff inside that carries the current is the same in all three.

Unless they have the appropriate wire colours to hand, many people just use black wire when making up extensions. It looks neat, and avoids confusion when connecting things up.

On the subject of extensions, the motor comes with a sensor cable, but I am not sure how long it is. If the ESC wires need to be extended, you may need a longer-than-standard sensor cable too. Here are a selection of lengths to choose from:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?search=1&search_string=Sensor+cable&x=0&y=0&CategoryID=992045&ManufacturerID=1140&CategoryID=992045

(The plugs are standardised, so will fit both the motor and your speed controller.)

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That is correct. The only difference between the different wire colours is the pigment in the insulation. The copper stuff inside that carries the current is the same in all three.

Unless they have the appropriate wire colours to hand, many people just use black wire when making up extensions. It looks neat, and avoids confusion when connecting things up.

On the subject of extensions, the motor comes with a sensor cable, but I am not sure how long it is. If the ESC wires need to be extended, you may need a longer-than-standard sensor cable too. Here are a selection of lengths to choose from:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?search=1&search_string=Sensor+cable&x=0&y=0&CategoryID=992045&ManufacturerID=1140&CategoryID=992045

(The plugs are standardised, so will fit both the motor and your speed controller.)

Just found this one, do you think this will work with everything we discussed?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/221871317542

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Yes, that should work. It is within the turn range of your speed controller, the connection terminals are far enough back to clear your gearbox, and it will have more than enough power to make your buggy quite rapid.

My only slight concern is that at 11.5t it is quite close to your speed controller's limit of 10t, so if the weather is very hot, or if the car is running strenuously, for example on grass, there is a chance that it might trigger the speed controller's thermal cutout.

A 13.5t motor would give you more thermal leeway, would only be slightly slower, and would give longer runtimes. Plus if you wanted to go racing at any point, 13.5t is a popular racing class for which your car would qualify.

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Yes, that should work. It is within the turn range of your speed controller, the connection terminals are far enough back to clear your gearbox, and it will have more than enough power to make your buggy quite rapid.

My only slight concern is that at 11.5t it is quite close to your speed controller's limit of 10t, so if the weather is very hot, or if the car is running strenuously, for example on grass, there is a chance that it might trigger the speed controller's thermal cutout.

A 13.5t motor would give you more thermal leeway, would only be slightly slower, and would give longer runtimes. Plus if you wanted to go racing at any point, 13.5t is a popular racing class for which your car would qualify.

Thankyou for your advice and suggestions. The motor and sensor cable is £24 is this reasonable for the product?

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Yes I would say so, especially since it is local. I typically pay over £30 for the ones I use.

You might be able to get them a bit cheaper from the Far East, but then you often have to wait a while for delivery, and you may get hit with customs charges. It is also more of a hassle if anything has to be returned. I think buying local is worth the couple of extra quid.

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