TWINSET 1793 Posted June 25, 2009 As you all know, I'm far too busy to go searching the forums, so I need some help... I got a Lunchbox that desperately needs building, but thought I may as well incorporate all the funky mods that need doing up front, during the build. What would be great is if you guys could raid your faves and post up any links to worthwhile mods for the LB. I was gonna word it as the compiling the ultimate LB FAQ, but thought that was one blag too many Any help'd be appreciated, then afterwards maybe we can do a random 'leftover' bits giveaway (if there are any bits leftover) Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leethal Driver 86 Posted June 25, 2009 Okey dokey (and hope these links work): Front end suspension (post below this one as I type) http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50292 3rd shock mod how to by Hellbelly http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9382&id=278 Chassis stiffening http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=56326 Prob find you'll look at it come up with your own version, lots of people do. Check out Ed's (mymonsterbeetleisbroken) bonkers brushless Pumpkin as well just to see how fast you can make this tub go... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blacque Jacque 4 Posted June 25, 2009 I'm assuming you're starting with bearings & oil shocks anyway. Angle your rear shocks outwards, helps with cornering, well worthwhile, especially if you're considering the FX10 front end conversion; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...51&id=21533 Stick an RZ, TZ or BZ motor in it, next in line in the power stakes is something like a 19t spec motor, much lower & you may as well go brushless. With more power, you can afford to stuff some extra weight low down near the back of the chassis to get the rear suspension working properly too (© TA-Mark). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted June 26, 2009 I'm assuming you're starting with bearings & oil shocks anyway. Bearings yes, shocks have yet to be sourced. Thanks for the links so far guys, with the impending naff weather this could be timed just right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 19, 2009 Any idea how long the front and rear shocks need to be, eye-to-eye? Got a bit bored lately too - probly should have built the chassis first to see it it'll fit, but they're cheap enough now if it's scrap ; Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted July 19, 2009 Cool idea for the body! It will fit on no problems like that with heaps of room to spare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blacque Jacque 4 Posted July 19, 2009 Any idea how long the front and rear shocks need to be, eye-to-eye? Instructions for Short CVA's say 80mm, but anything around that size works. Soft oil & 2 hole pistons should be about right for the inner gubbins. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted July 20, 2009 Any idea how long the front and rear shocks need to be, eye-to-eye?Got a bit bored lately too - probly should have built the chassis first to see it it'll fit, but they're cheap enough now if it's scrap ; Little Red Wagon, perhaps? And BTW, a while back I substituted a solid rod for the 3rd shock, which holds the slider bar for the axle halfway up the slots. It seems to get better articulation, and does much better wheelies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 20, 2009 And BTW, a while back I substituted a solid rod for the 3rd shock, which holds the slider bar for the axle halfway up the slots. It seems to get better articulation, and does much better wheelies. Another fine idea (and cheaper ) Little Red's for sale BTW, News Report Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 20, 2009 Instructions for Short CVA's say 80mm, but anything around that size works.Soft oil & 2 hole pistons should be about right for the inner gubbins. Cheers chap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1893 Posted July 20, 2009 Nobody swaping the wheels and tyres?, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
highflyer 73 Posted July 21, 2009 Great thread, taking notes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr_pushrod 5 Posted July 28, 2009 Hadn't noticed this before, Lunchy pickup could be rather cool! I don't reckon you'll have any clearance issues with that shell Andy, from my experience a motor around 19turns does the job nicely Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfst24 2 Posted July 31, 2009 dont forget to spray the wheels black.this is a must on the lunchbox .lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 31, 2009 That's the second time wheels have been mentioned now - what are the options? I really can't be bothered to spray em Do WW2 wheels fit? Just ordered some shocks for it, will prob start this over the weekend Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blacque Jacque 4 Posted July 31, 2009 WW2 chrome ones fit if you use frog hexes on the back (note; I had to turn the axle down slightly to get them to seat properly on mine) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfst24 2 Posted July 31, 2009 WW2 chrome ones fit if you use frog hexes on the back (note; I had to turn the axle down slightly to get them to seat properly on mine) seems like a lot of hassel and expense. you could get chrome midnight pumpkin wheels,straight fit. or gold chrome lunchbox wheels again straight fit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 31, 2009 seems like a lot of hassel and expense.you could get chrome midnight pumpkin wheels,straight fit. or gold chrome lunchbox wheels again straight fit. Just remembered the MP ones, should be here next week 4 NIP LB rims anyone? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteelRat 46 Posted July 31, 2009 Out of interest is there a reason to fit a third shock rather than fitting a solid bar and locking it? Increase gearbox life? Stop it from doing back flips with brushless motors? None of the other monster trucks have a similar system (afaik) so I'd have thought it'd be more for launch stability rather than anything? Am I right, or have I missed something painfully obvious? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 31, 2009 Out of interest is there a reason to fit a third shock rather than fitting a solid bar and locking it? Increase gearbox life? Stop it from doing back flips with brushless motors? None of the other monster trucks have a similar system (afaik) so I'd have thought it'd be more for launch stability rather than anything?Am I right, or have I missed something painfully obvious? If you were to lock the axle in either the lower or upper position, you'd lose the left/right 'wheel up' articulation of the rear axle, and only have up/down. For drag racing and wheelies that's probably preferable, but for cornering it wouldn't be so great. If you locked the rear axle at half it's travel (mid point in the slots), then you'd still get a little articulation. The third shock allows the rear axle to pivot as 'normal', just more controlled and it's tuneable too The wheely/torque 'flip' may also be a reason for the front travel, but the action isn't damped, so it's only (briefly) delaying the inevitable Other trucks either have independant left/right suspension (like most modern buggies) or an articulating live/beam axle (like the Clod/Jugg/TXT) - the LB/MP is a bit of a weird one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteelRat 46 Posted July 31, 2009 Yeah of course, that makes sense. I wonder if you could get around it by using a steering rod and ball joint instead of a shock. Best of both worlds then, or would the axle twist ("wheel up") in the corners still not be enough? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted July 31, 2009 Yeah of course, that makes sense. I wonder if you could get around it by using a steering rod and ball joint instead of a shock. Best of both worlds then, or would the axle twist ("wheel up") in the corners still not be enough? A solid rod would affect the available articulation, as you'd need the axle halfway up the slot to allow it to travel Too low and you'd lose travel, too high and you'd lose travel The axle would only rotate around the ball end. With a shock, you can set the axle at the bottom of the slot and the axle will compress the shock to travel, giving the full available travel range in that slot - so more 'up' from rest (but no down) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted August 1, 2009 Got the braces done, the rear ones are top links off an Axial crawler Started on the body too, anyone know a good prep thread? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted August 2, 2009 Right, been to Halfords today Filler's a little 'gappy' - is that down to the filler (Squadron) or the prep? Just rubbed it down until it felt dead smooth, but the primer does show some 'pitting' Do I need finer paper or finer filler? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adam1973 1 Posted August 2, 2009 There is a tube of green filler thats for modelling... I've seen it at Snetterton's model shop, but I forget the name of it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites