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Fried Tyres

CC-01 Unimog

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I picked up a CC-01 Unimog kit a few days ago. I don't plan on opening the box until I do a lot more research on the model and figure out what hop ups are best.

I know hop ups are plentiful for this chassis and there are a lot of home made mods that get the most from them as well. But as I'm new to the scene I don't really know what's best and what's not. I'd like to use this thread to document the build but I'd also like to get lots of advice about what parts are best to use.

I had planned to build the kit and drive it, upgrading as I saw fit. But I recently built a Novafox and already I've noticed some weaknesses with it. That has convinced me to upgrade the CC-01 chassis during the initial build.

I want a capable, waterproof Unimog. As close to scale as I can practically get. I want to use it for light to medium crawling if possible and it will also need to be fast and stable enough to drive on trails. If money was no object, what parts would you source to build it? I am mechanically competent but my access to specialist tools is now limited (I don't have a lathe for example!). I do not wish to just throw the most expensive parts at this thing. Nor do I wish to chop up the chassis too much. I will buy a CR-01 in time. For now I'd like to get this going. So give me your suggestions for a dream build.

IMG_2477_zps6930za9p.jpg

Chris.

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I asked the same thing a couple of months ago. I will find a link to the tread when I get home.

Have a look on Asistees for the GPM products. http://www.asiatees.com/model?Tamiya-CC01-Upgrades-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=Tamiya&model=CC01&c=search_enter

I hope to build mine over the Easter break so it will be great to see what direction you take

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So I've been doing a lot of research here and around the net. I've had a look through the box at the pieces and I've sort of come up with some upgrades I might get for this truck. Here's a list of stuff so far. Please comment on the parts.


Front End:


GPM Steering Kit

GPM Lower Arm Plate

GPM Upper Suspension Arm

GPM Lower Suspension Arm

GPM Front Damper Mount

GPM C-Hubs

GPM Steering Knuckles

Tamiya CVD's (#54608 )


Or is it worth looking at the RC Channel front end? Not many reviews about it.


Rear End:


Junfac 4 Link Conversion

Tamiya Stroke Extension Links


Wheels/Tyres:


Junfac SR03 Steel Beadlocks (matt black)

GPM Aluminium Hex Drives


I'm still undecided on tyres. I'll also grab some black wheel nuts to suit the SR03's lol.


Driveline:


Fast Eddy Bearing Kit

GPM Servo Mount

GPM Gearbox Mount

GPM Motor Plate

Junfac Uni Shaft


I'm also unsure on what gears need upgrading. GPM do a bunch. They worth it?


I think these mods will get a bit more durability and performance out of the truck. I'm yet to properly research the electrics. I will really need advice on that as it's still very new to me and there is so much choice it's a bit overwhelming at the moment. Thanks.


Chris.

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Massive post warning!

In my opinion a lot of that stuff is unnecessary bling - I would recommend building the model as box-stock then deciding for yourself what you want to upgrade. The only exception I would make to that rule would be the bearing kit, which is essential as taking the driveline apart again is a lengthy process.

Parts I have tried-
GPM Steering setup - Silky smooth operation once fitted, however, due to the now incredibly rigid construction and lack of any 'give' this has limited the suspension travel somewhat...I may remove it if it become prohibitive

Steering knuckles I may consider - but primarily because they can be purchased in black and occasionally the CC01 is shipped with blue plastic knuckles. This isn't really a weak point, but the colour change is a must for an OCD builder like me...

GPM 4-link - again, without modification this limited the articulation of the rear suspension from stock. I absolutely recommend some form of link upgrade, since the stock plastic is way too bendy, but the Junfac / eBay kits are much, much better.

Junfac shaft - The stock unit is plenty strong enough, but the Junfac item looks incredibly scale and has the added advantage of being supposedly much stronger. Judging by the amount of stock Tamiya propshafts we used to sell in the shop, they do wear out over time.

Aluminium hex drives - These are great if you swap and change wheels often, they also run a little bit more 'true' to the axle as the plastic ones do wear over time.

Parts I deem unneccessary (opinion only!)
- CVD's - I've never had one dogbone fall out on me (I have 3 CC01s) - but they should mean that if you wish to modify the maximum steering angle you have a little more scope than the dogbones would allow.
- Dampers - the stock oil units are actually very, very good in terms of performance. I've tried GPM (too hard) and Topcad (not enough travel) and Tamiya aluminium (too expensive!) and nothing really added to the stock 'performance' - they just looked nice...
- Motor mount - Again, no more options for mounting different gearing over stock, just hidden, unnecessary bling on a part which isn't under any relative stress.
- GPM Lower Arm Plate - it's just going to get scratched up, offers protection to an area which doesn't really need it
- GPM Servo Mount - The Servo is quite distanced from the pivot points - in stock form the flex is absorbed in the steering shaft which passes through the chassis tub. Upgrading to the aluminium setup will obviously pass this tension on to the servo, most of which is going to be absorbed by the servo saver. Then, and only then, will any additional force be applied to the actual mounts. So, it depends how far you go, but I have never witnessed a CC01 twisting its' servo mounts.
- Suspension arms, tie rods, suspension mounts, C-hubs are all things I deem unnecessary too - the stock plastic is durable, and less likely to get scratched / bent. Introducing more components in these areas can introduce more unwanted slack where there is a lack of precision in the GPM production line - I think almost all of my GPM stuff has required a multitude of shims (which you will need if you want smooth operation)

Parts you didn't mention which I would recommend:

- Junfac front skid plate / Radshape RC front skid plate - both good options if you don't want to hack the front 'brick' off the chassis.

- Junfac underbelly skid plate - still waiting on delivery of mine, but one major 'snagging' point on the underside of the chassis is the output shaft housing and the links to the lower arms.

- Hex-head stainless steel screws - if you plan on using the car a lot, hex heads not only look smarter but are often a bit longer-lasting in the head department and won't round as easily as the Tamiya steel ones. They also won't rust if you plan on using your CC01 in damp conditions.

- 55T motor or similar - standard these cars are not much slower than a touring car, which translates as being way too fast for anything other than a Paris-Dakar rally replica!

- Steel Pinion - standard ones have a reputation for being a bit soft

Now...Tyres...

I really like the 'Kong' tyres which have been re-branded by many manufacturers from the far east - they can be purchased from Hobbyking, Boom Racing, Fastrax and many others, but they are all the same thing. Mine are all 90mm size, to fit under hard-body shells. You should get away with the 96mm or 106mm tyre sizes with the Unimog shell though. They look like this -

gen__vyr_952_vyr_825IMG_2128.jpg

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ChrisRx that's excellent feedback. Thanks.

The Junfac underbelly skid plate comes in their 4 Link Kit, so I'll be getting that. I'd read their front skid plate is just another item to get stuck on rocks etc. I guess I can grab it and if I don't like it I can always take it off and remove the "brick".

I'm still in two minds about the stainless screws. Stainless is softer so I'm a bit worried about stripping a head. It's also going to be smoother and I've read of complaints where the screws can back out of the holes more easily. Also, I can't find a kit with the correct size screws for the CC01. Do you know of any? I do like the idea of rust resistance. I've been looking for a titanium kit too but haven't found much worth while on the web yet.

Motor and pinion... school me up! There are SO many motor options. 55T seems to be the most popular so I'll start there. I do see lower turn motors on the web advertised for crawlers. RC4WD have many, including 20T. I don't understand what's going on there. Also, have you had success with the GPM steel pinion, or is there something else you prefer?

I'll go with the Kong tyres on your recommendation.

Thanks mate.

Chris.

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55t is a good start for most scalers, however the CC-01's gearing is taller than most, so I find a 65t suits it better.

RW Racing steel pinions are well-machined and run quiet. I would recommend them.

Bearings - I would strongly recommend that you get rubber sealed ones. RCbearings.co.uk do a kit for the CC-01 that is good value and decent quality. May as well tag four extra 850 bearings with rubber seals too, to replace the metal-shielded ones that come with the GPM steering kit.

Glad you went for the Kongs - good choice! I use them on mine too.

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+1 to a 55T as your starting point . i use a reduction unit in my CC-01 too but that's very much a personal choice that suits my driving style off road - very slow picking my lines carefully . Another +1 to the Kongs - excellent tires .

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Thanks guys. Well I bought some bits today. I grabbed the 1.9" Kong tyres in 96mm. I also ordered the CC-01 bearing kit from RC Bearings in the UK. They're the rubber sealed ones and I added the 4 extra 850 bearings for the GPM Steering Kit as XV suggested.

From the Junfac site I ordered the 4 Link Kit, a set of 1.9 SR03 beadlocks in matt black with matching wheel nuts/covers, a set of 12mm Hex Adapters and their Hardened Uni Shaft.

I've also ordered the Tamiya Stroke Extension Kit for the rear shocks and the Tamiya front CVD's.

There's a few GPM parts I'd like but I'm having a had time finding them in black. I guess I'll just have to keep looking.

Hopefully these parts arrive soon and I can start the build. Or I'll just get impatient and start building anyway. I'll have to start sourcing electronics soon too, so I'll have a million questions regarding that.

Chris.

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Fusion seem to list GPM parts in black more than anywhere else

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While I agree with much of what ChrisRx718has written, there are a few points where my experiences have differed from his:

CVDs - I didn't have any trouble with the stock dogbones when I had stock steering throw and stock suspension travel, but when I increased the throw and travel, the dogbones popped out regularly. CVDs solved this issue nicely.

Dampers - the stock ones work nicely enough, but longer dampers allow longer suspension travel. I use 75mm Ansmanns rebuilt with Tamiya seals.

Motor mount - a good alloy one wobbles less than the stock plastic one, and acts as a heatsink to aid motor cooling.

GPM servo mount - not so much an issue for the steering, but if you are running a servo winch, they are a worthwhile add-on as the stock mounts flex if asked to support the full weight of the vehicle (especially if it is carrying other metal add-ons).

Suspension arms - normally I recommend against alloy suspension arms as they are stiff and pass collision forces onto other components that are not necessarily designed to take them. However on a slow-moving vehicle with well-protected wheels such as the CC-01, this isn't such an issue, and the GPM alloy lower arms allow a bit of extra suspension travel without having to trim (and thus weaken) any plastic components. The stock plastic upper arms are fine though.

On another note, are you sure you want all-black alloy components? They might look great on a shelfer, but if the vehicle is going to be a runner, silver anodised components also look good, and show wear and scratches a lot less than black ones.

One final thing (for now) - the stroke extension kit is not directly compatible with the Junfac underbelly plate. The extra stroke causes the propshaft to rub and bind against the edge of the plate. You'll need to grind part of the plate away if you want to run these components together.

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I jumped on to Fusion Hobbies and had a look around. I ordered the GPM Steering Kit, Servo Mount and Motor Mount. I also ordered a set of black GPM Steering Knuckles. I'm unsure if I'll use them but they seem to be hard to find so I thought I'd grab them just in case. Thanks for the heads up there Nobbi.

XV Pilot, I hadn't actually thought about the black anodising getting all scratched up and looking crappy. It's a good point. I also didn't know the GMP lower arms allowed more travel. I'll put them back on my list of considerations. It's also good to know that 75mm dampers are an ideal length. I may look at getting some later on.

I was worried about the compatibility of the Junfac 4 link and the Tamiya Stroke Extension Kit. I assume you've run these together before? I couldn't find any info online. I can see how the links would foul on the skid plate. If that's all it is I'll just grind the plate a bit to get it working.

Chris.

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I also didn't know about the compatability issues with the stroke extension kit and skid plate. The stroke kit was in my basket waiting for payday, but I'll have to reconsider now!

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From the link that was posted about the skid plate stopping some axle articulation it looked to me that if you fitted the link on top of the spacer, closer to the skid plate, then you would gain travel. I have the GPM links but might get the JUnfac ones now just to try.

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The trouble isn't with the links hitting the skid plate. It is the propshaft that hits the skidplate when a stroke extension kit is fitted.

As the rear axle articulation increases, be it through the fitment of a stroke extension kit or overly long shocks, the rear axle is allowed to drop further away from the chassis. This in turn causes the propshaft to drop further down. If it drops too far down, it hits the Junfac skidplate. One solution is to grind away part of the skidplate to provide more clearance for the propshaft.

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Not really got anything else to add that hasn't already been said. But I'd be interested to know a rough idea of the cost of all the upgrades and the kit so far, to help work out of it's worth while.

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The trouble isn't with the links hitting the skid plate. It is the propshaft that hits the skidplate when a stroke extension kit is fitted.

As the rear axle articulation increases, be it through the fitment of a stroke extension kit or overly long shocks, the rear axle is allowed to drop further away from the chassis. This in turn causes the propshaft to drop further down. If it drops too far down, it hits the Junfac skidplate. One solution is to grind away part of the skidplate to provide more clearance for the propshaft.

I see now :-)

I am tempted to rip open the box and start on mine now but the weather is foul and I want to be one of these people that do the body first so the kit is finished when it is built

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*Hack off brick

*Drill through gearbox screws and nut & bolt

*Bearings

*55t motor

*Decent tyres

*Lock both diffs

*Gpm steering kit

*Junfac 4 link with skid plate and driveshaft.

*Hobbywing 1060 esc

*Gens ace 3s 2200mah batteries.

15kg servo.

That's my recommendation. I would run a servo mount/brace too, have snapped the little post for the steering servo, too much flex there, dont run a servo saver and would like this area strengthened.

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Not really got anything else to add that hasn't already been said. But I'd be interested to know a rough idea of the cost of all the upgrades and the kit so far, to help work out of it's worth while.

It will be less than the cost of the kit, but I do need electronics yet. Relative to the kit it's probably a bit expensive, but overall we're not talking large sums of money. I often have up to 5 1:1 cars that I'm either building or racing so this hobby is cheap fun. Which is probably why we're all in it and enjoying it. For me, the "worth" is the pleasure of putting it together as best I can.

*Hack off brick

*Drill through gearbox screws and nut & bolt

*Bearings

*55t motor

*Decent tyres

*Lock both diffs

*Gpm steering kit

*Junfac 4 link with skid plate and driveshaft.

*Hobbywing 1060 esc

*Gens ace 3s 2200mah batteries.

15kg servo.

That's my recommendation. I would run a servo mount/brace too, have snapped the little post for the steering servo, too much flex there, dont run a servo saver and would like this area strengthened.

Thanks for this info. I'd read about people bolting the gearbox cover in, but I didn't realise it was that important. Have you had issues with screws backing out?

Is there a neat way of locking the front? Or is it just a case of jamming another gear/blutac/glue in there?

I've been looking at servos. Savox look to have a good rep and make some that I think fit the bill. The SW-0230MG and the SW-0231MG which has more torque. Would the 31 be OK? Noob question - it's digital. Does it require anything specific to run it?

Lastly, does that Gens Ace 3s require I hack up the chassis to fit it? I'd like to find something that just slips in to begin with. Thanks for your help.

Chris.

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Imo, unless you're frequently removing the motor and you don't overtighten those screws there is absolutely no need to modify that area. The key is knowing when to stop tightening that screw, something you will probably be rather used to if you're regularly building real cars!

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^^^ yep. This is what I'll do. Just wondered if there was a Tamiya part for the job like the rear end. Thanks mate.

Chris.

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On the subject of gearbox screws:

Like you, I did quite a lot of reading, research and question-asking before my CC-01 build, and I came across several sad tales of the gearbox cover screws pulling themselves out, even on new builds by experienced modellers. It doesn't happen to everyone, but it happens to enough people to be of concern.

From what I have read, all seems fine when running a stock silver can, open diffs and standard tyres, but trouble can start when running a setup that demands that the gearbox handle more torque. Like the DF-01, the CC-01 gearbox cover struggles to keep the gears in their place.

With this in mind, I built mine with 12mm screws keeping the cover in place rather than the stock 10mm screws. While not as extreme as the bolt-through approach, it has kept my 'box securely closed for over 3 years now.

Whether it would have stayed shut with 10mm screws, I do not know. However the extra bit of security gave me the peace of mind to enjoy running my car without worrying about blowing the 'box every time I took it out. You may wish to do the same?

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Been a while since I updated this one. I did some careful buying and acquired as many of the hop-up parts I thought I needed to get this thing going. I didn't want bling, just the staff that was supposed to improve the suspension and steering mostly.

IMG_2615_zpsjez6womv.jpg

I finally got it going. I'm using a factory locker in the front after some failed attempts with the Blu-Tac. The steering is woeful. It's loose and vague, and the turning radius is very large. I had to take the GPM steering kit apart and screw it back to gather with thread lock. It just kept coming apart. I'm yet to grind the hubs down to get more lock, so I hope that helps.

IMG_2873_zps7clohqwh.jpg

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IMG_2875_zpsalrqlsjv.jpg

I tried to use quality electronics, but I picked up a very cheap 55T motor. I didn't know if I'd like it with the stock gearing. I think I'll go to an 80T.

IMG_2871_zps5iffnhes.jpg

IMG_2872_zpsoqttdefz.jpg

The suspension is working well, particularly the rear. I've got the Tamiya stroke extension links in the back with the Junfac 4 link. Still on stock dampers.

IMG_2876_zpseal8aimg.jpg

The front? Meh, not so much. Dampers and some careful cutting, including the brick, should do the job.

IMG_2877_zpsamekvbwq.jpg

It's good fun though, and the kids love it!

Chris.

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On 8/6/2015 at 7:42, Fried Tyres said:

Ha pasado un tiempo desde que actualicé este. Hice una compra cuidadosa y adquirí la mayor cantidad de repuestos que pensé que necesitaba para que esto funcionara. No quería bling, solo el personal que se suponía que mejoraría la suspensión y la dirección principalmente.

IMG_2615_zpsjez6womv.jpg

Finalmente lo puse en marcha. Estoy usando un casillero de fábrica en el frente después de algunos intentos fallidos con el Blu-Tac. La dirección es lamentable. Es flojo y vago, y el radio de giro es muy grande. Tuve que desmontar el kit de dirección GPM y volver a atornillarlo para juntarlo con el bloqueo de rosca. Simplemente seguía desmoronándose. Todavía tengo que moler los cubos para obtener más bloqueo, así que espero que ayude.

IMG_2873_zps7clohqwh.jpg

IMG_2874_zpsg2oce8mb.jpg

IMG_2875_zpsalrqlsjv.jpg

Intenté usar electrónica de calidad, pero compré un motor 55T muy barato. No sabía si me gustaría con el engranaje de valores. Creo que iré a un 80T.

IMG_2871_zps5iffnhes.jpg

IMG_2872_zpsoqttdefz.jpg

La suspensión funciona bien, particularmente la parte trasera. Tengo los enlaces de extensión de trazo de Tamiya en la parte posterior con el enlace Junfac 4. Todavía en stock amortiguadores.

IMG_2876_zpseal8aimg.jpg

¿El frente? Meh, no tanto. Los amortiguadores y algunos cortes cuidadosos, incluido el ladrillo, deberían hacer el trabajo.

IMG_2877_zpsamekvbwq.jpg

Sin embargo, es muy divertido, ¡y a los niños les encanta!

Chris

Este es el mio

 

base unimog.jpg

unimog 425.jpg

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