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An M-05 Monte Carlo Mini build that isn't

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As those of you who read my recent "What shall I buy" thread will know, I have an M-05 Mini Cooper '94 Monte Carlo kit to build while my wife is away in Switzerland.

Well, I have just dropped her off at the station and it is too late at night/early in the morning to go back to bed, so what better time to start the build?

Step one - open the box!

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(I should apologise at this point for the pictures in this thread - the good camera has gone on the trip with my wife, so I am using tablet and phone cameras.)

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Page one of the manual sees the assembly of three large chunks of chassis.

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The added complexity of this kit compared to it's predecessor the M-03 is immediately noticeable. Whereas the M-03 would have used six plastic parts and one type of screw for these assemblies, the M-05 uses ten plastic parts and four types of screw!

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The next page deals with the assembly of the diff and gearbox. Nothing out of the ordinary here, just a nice rugged TL-01 style gear diff with metal internals, and two other gears that each take a 1150 and 850 bearing. I may be mistaken, but it looks just like the gear set used in the M-03.

Like the M-06, the M-05 uses 1150 diff bearings that clip into plastic holders that in turn clip into the gearbox halves.

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This clever arrangement allows the use of a wide range of diffs, including the type with flanges moulded into the sides that fit into larger bearings, such as used on the TA-06 for example.

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With the gearbox gubbins installed and riding on sealed bearings from RCbearings.co.uk, it is time to close up the chassis.

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Why use one type of screw when four will do?

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Front suspension goes on next.

P_20150310_064345_zpsphrm4vpo.jpg

The upper arms are a new design, but the lower ones are carried straight over from the M-03. It should thus be easy to find aftermarket hop-ups if that is your thing.

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Steering rack is next:

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The M-05 shares the same steering rack as the M-06, which is more complex than the direct-to-servo arrangement used on the M-03/M-04, but causes considerably less bump steer.

It rides on bearings rather than the stock plastic bushings. This is one of the reasons I like getting my bearing kits from RCbearings.co.uk - when they say they are selling a complete bearing kit, they mean it, as they include ALL the bearings for a given chassis, rather than omitting the steering rack bearings as many others do.

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Here we have the steering rack in place, and the front shocks fitted:

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Super Mini CVAs are my shocks of choice for this build, as they work well, look neat and don't break the bank. I raced my M-03 for several seasons on Super Mini CVAs, so I see no reason not to trust them on my M-05.

(I wouldn't even bother assembling the stock pogo sticks, unless for a shelfer. Taken from the TT-01, they provide no damping and are a toy-like insult to what is otherwise a rather nice hobby-grade car.)

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The manual tells us to install the motor next.

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If/when I get back into racing, I will install a motor appropriate to the regulations of the club/class in which I am taking part. However until then, a 27t rebuildable Etronix motor occupies the motor mount. Surprisingly well-made for the price, they offer performance similar to that of a black can Sport Tuned, but can be cleaned and rebuilt, making them last a lot longer.

The pinion is a 20t 0.6 module steel RW Racing item, which should far outlast the soft aluminium stock one, thus also protecting the spur from premature wear.

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When installed, the motor is almost fully enclosed by the chassis.

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I don't see this being an issue with my current motor, but temperatures will be something to keep an eye on if I go racing.

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We now move our attention to the rear, where the lower suspension arm design from the M-03 makes a reappearance, along with upper arms unique to the M05.

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The arms are attached to bulkheads that have different mounting positions to alter the wheelbase, rather like the FF-01 of old. While quite a neat solution, it does mean the M-05 isn't as versatile as the M-03, which could easily be extended to touring car length and beyond through the fitment of multiple chassis spacers.

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(BTW, the really observant amongst you who were wondering about the thread title will probably have gone "Aha!" upon seeing the above photo.)

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Rear shocks are on:

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The upper and lower shock mounts are not aligned with each other, which means spacers need to be fitted at the bottom to bring the shocks vertical when viewed from the side. Luckily the kit includes the necessary spacers.

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As I am running the Super Mini CVAs, the long step screws supplied in the kit weren't any help, so I used a pair of screw-through ball connectors and longer screws from my bits box.

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So when you say the that this is a Monte Carlo Mini that isn't am i right in assuming that your going to change the decals to the correct Paddy Hopkirk ones to make it period correct as well as using the M0-03 parts ?

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So when you say the that this is a Monte Carlo Mini that isn't am i right in assuming that your going to change the decals to the correct Paddy Hopkirk ones to make it period correct as well as using the M0-03 parts ?

Nope, but that is a very good idea - one that I may well attempt one day! :)

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What batteries are you going to run?

I need to rebuild my M05 with V2 A parts so I can run my square lipos.

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Nope, but that is a very good idea - one that I may well attempt one day! :)

you may find these interesting XV http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Tamiya-Mini-Monte-Carlo-Rally-stickers-Decals-/161065052176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258039a810

you would need to add the single roof mounted spot light but as far as i can see that's just about the only change needed to get it looking correct .

http://www.classiccarportraits.co.uk/pages/33EJB_1964.htm

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What batteries are you going to run?

I need to rebuild my M05 with V2 A parts so I can run my square lipos.

At the moment I still run NiMH, so my stick packs fit just fine. If I switch to LiPo, it would be to rounded packs to fit my oldies, so I should still be good with the V1 plastics. Still, it is nice to know the V2 option is there.

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you may find these interesting XV http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Tamiya-Mini-Monte-Carlo-Rally-stickers-Decals-/161065052176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258039a810

you would need to add the single roof mounted spot light but as far as i can see that's just about the only change needed to get it looking correct .

http://www.classiccarportraits.co.uk/pages/33EJB_1964.htm

Hmm. That does indeed look interesting.

I think I will stick with the '94 replica livery this time, as the '94 fullsize attends local Mini Club meetings and I want to photograph my model with the real thing one of these days.

However now that I have an M-03, M-04, M-05 and M-06 in my fleet, the next logical step would be to work backwards and add the M-01 and M-02. I'm thinking the classic decals would make sense on an M-01 Mini Cooper. That is one more model added to my wishlist! :)

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Hmm. That does indeed look interesting.

I think I will stick with the '94 replica livery this time, as the '94 fullsize attends local Mini Club meetings and I want to photograph my model with the real thing one of these days.

However now that I have an M-03, M-04, M-05 and M-06 in my fleet, the next logical step would be to work backwards and add the M-01 and M-02. I'm thinking the classic decals would make sense on an M-01 Mini Cooper. That is one more model added to my list! :)

no problem sir and the decals are of high quality .

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Onwards with the build!

Radio gear goes in next:

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The stock ESC is joined by a ballraced Alturn servo and a Spektrum 2CH RX. I got a bit creative with the aerial tube to accommodate the short antenna wire.

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Getting near the end now! Time to add the wheel hexes:

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After a spate of cracked plastic wheel hexes a few winters ago when the low temperatures made them brittle, I now add metal ones to all my runners to make them cold weather capable.

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Now to add a means of securing the battery:

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Although sold as fitting the TL-01 and M-03, the Tamiya Quick Release Battery Holder also fits the M-05. (And the WR-01 and WT-01.)

Apart from making battery changes more convenient, it has another advantage in that it shifts the battery slightly off-center away from the motor, contributing to better chassis balance.

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Wheels and tyres are next:

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And if you are thinking "That doesn't look like a Mini Cooper wheel and tyre!" then you would be right!

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So we might as well put a bodyshell on it.

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"But what of the Mini Cooper shell?" I hear you ask.

Well, that will be appearing in my next exciting thread, dealing with the rebuilding of my ex-track M-03 into a Mini Cooper rally car. Coming to you soon, live from our dining room table! :D

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