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TRF 201 Item #42167

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Foreword: This thread is very image heavy. What can I say? I was a photo major in college. ;) It turns out that while I did size them down for the site I didn't lower the DPI per image enough and the images are about .6MB each. This can (and has) cause slow loading and unnecessary bandwidth usage. I've adjusted my image editing software so that both the dimensions and resolution are reduced to optimal levels for the web. I will update the existing pictures as I can. Once that has been completed I will remove this forward. Until then, I apologize for the large-ish file size of the images.

The build:

I got a TRF 201 for my birthday. I couldn't find any TRF 201 builds here so I guess it's up to me to make one. :huh: I know there are a number of people here who have these cars so if you notice that I'm doing something wrong or if you have any tips for me while I build it, please speak up! I'm going to take my time on this because I want to do it right. It's been like forever since I raced R/C. My last foray was in 1989 when I raced the guys in my shop while I was in the Air Force. We build a small, impromptu track and I hammered my Falcon almost daily. Back then I was running a Technituned motor and NiCad batteries. It'll be interesting to see just how far ahead of my old Falcon this buggy is. If the DT-02 Desert Gator my son and I recently built so he can race is any indication of the potential of this car I'm sure to be blown away. So without further ado, let's get on with the build.

The box is little. Mostly because the body and wing are packaged separately:

12.14.2015-11.16.png

The box may not be very big, but WOW they sure do pack a lot into it! Every single sprue was individually wrapped in it's own plastic bag, closed with 2 staples per bag. I'm not sure THAT'S necessary. It sure did take some time unpacking them all. The screw bags are all still neatly in their bags. It seems like there are hundreds of parts in each screw bag too. Whew! This is really going to take some time to build. You might notice that I have a Super Stock BZ motor. I also have a Dirt Tuned I could use instead but the BZ seemed more appropriate as a starter motor for this guy. Why not go brushless? Well, I will eventually but I have a new Duratrax Intellispeed 12T ESC which won't work with a brushless motor. So I'll stay brushed for a while until I learn how to drive again and then I'll upgrade the ESC / Motor when I get a better feel for what the other 2WD buggies at the track are running. I also have a Futaba S3151 servo to use in conjunction with my Futaba 3PL. To me it seemed that the basic S3003 servo wasn't in the same league as this car so I opted for a bit of an upgrade there.

12.14.2015-11.17.png

I'm going to end the post here and will pick back up with Step 1, building the ball differential in the next post. Wish me luck! :D

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You will experience a night and day difference between this chassis and the DT02. Since you bought the original 42167 chassis ($184 at T-USA), there are a few fixes you'll want to incorporate while building.

54265 reinforced front suspension arms are stronger than the original (more fragile) kit arms.

54262 reinforced ball diff gear set addresses teeth wear issues on the original kit gears.

54276 aluminum motor plate is stronger than the kit plate and includes a ridge to help seal against dirt better. There is a 54225 lightweight motor plate, but it is weaker than kit and doesn't include the sealing features.

These are pretty much the key upgrades to look at.

54220 may or may not add value to you -- these are axle stubs that allow you to use wheels with imperial bearings (like Associated B4/B4.1 wheels) instead of Tamiya wheels, which use metric bearings. When this kit was released Associated buggies were still running pin-drive rear wheels and imperial bearings in the front wheels. You can still get a steady supply of pin-drive rear wheels and metric bearing front wheels from Tamiya, but I'm not sure what the supply looks like for pin drive rear and imperial front from other third parties (Pro-Line, etc.).

Beyond the fixes and maybe changing what wheels you buy, there are other hopups you could buy, but may not make sense given the chassis is dated at this point. The latest chassis have longer wheelbases, narrow tub width, aluminum center chassis plates, options for mid-motor configuration, big bore dampers, updated suspension geometry, etc. If you build and drive this purely for enjoyment, then don't worry about the latest trends or buy a bunch of hopups. If you get super serious about racing, then getting a whole new chassis (B5/B5M, DEX201V2, RB6, 22, TRF211XM) may be more economical than hopping up an older platform.

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I look forward to following this too - you rarely see the high-end TRF machines being put together.

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You will experience a night and day difference between this chassis and the DT02. Since you bought the original 42167 chassis ($184 at T-USA), there are a few fixes you'll want to incorporate while building.

54265 reinforced front suspension arms are stronger than the original (more fragile) kit arms.

54262 reinforced ball diff gear set addresses teeth wear issues on the original kit gears.

54276 aluminum motor plate is stronger than the kit plate and includes a ridge to help seal against dirt better. There is a 54225 lightweight motor plate, but it is weaker than kit and doesn't include the sealing features.

These are pretty much the key upgrades to look at.

54220 may or may not add value to you -- these are axle stubs that allow you to use wheels with imperial bearings (like Associated B4/B4.1 wheels) instead of Tamiya wheels, which use metric bearings. When this kit was released Associated buggies were still running pin-drive rear wheels and imperial bearings in the front wheels. You can still get a steady supply of pin-drive rear wheels and metric bearing front wheels from Tamiya, but I'm not sure what the supply looks like for pin drive rear and imperial front from other third parties (Pro-Line, etc.).

Beyond the fixes and maybe changing what wheels you buy, there are other hopups you could buy, but may not make sense given the chassis is dated at this point. The latest chassis have longer wheelbases, narrow tub width, aluminum center chassis plates, options for mid-motor configuration, big bore dampers, updated suspension geometry, etc. If you build and drive this purely for enjoyment, then don't worry about the latest trends or buy a bunch of hopups. If you get super serious about racing, then getting a whole new chassis (B5/B5M, DEX201V2, RB6, 22, TRF211XM) may be more economical than hopping up an older platform.

Thank you Speedy! That's exactly the sort of feedback I was hoping for. :) I'll definitely get these hop-ups you suggest. At this point, I'm sure this car is beyond my skill level, which is important because you can't get better if you don't have to stretch. I plan on racing at my local club but I have no idea what the competition is like. If I do out grow this car I was thinking of either a Losi 22 or a Team Durango DEX210v2. I really like the looks/desgin of the Durango. But, those cars are likely a year or two off for me. For now, I have this one to build. :D

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Step 1: Ball differential. Wow, gathering up the bits for this was a bit of a "Where's Waldo" adventure. All the little bags within the A, B, and C bags are unlabeled. Some of the bits were in different bags than what the instructions stated so I am extremely thankful for the to scale line drawings. Right off the bat I can tell you I'm concerned about the Lilliputian tube of ball diff grease.

12.14.2015-11.18.png

Turns out there was enough, but just. I would most definitely buy more if I were going to build this kit again and I'll be ordering up more for myself soon.

12.14.2015-11.19.png

The diff plate goes here...

12.14.2015-11.21.png

Diff grease first, natch:

12.14.2015-11.22.png

More great on top as well. Then the bearing and spacer:

12.14.2015-11.23.png

Diff gear sits on top of all that:

12.14.2015-11.24.png

Using a hex key dipped in diff grease to place the diff balls in their cages:

12.14.2015-11.24.png

Top it all off with the other diff plate and diff joint. It's like a greasy, ball filled sandwich.

12.14.2015-11.25.png

Compressing the spring ONCE as per the instructions. I'm still finding uses for these soft jawed pliers. Just so long as I don't use them to hold shock shafts during a build, I think they're useful. ;)

12.14.2015-11.27.png

The second half of Step 1 is to build this shaft that compresses the diff plates against the diff balls. The super fun part is building the unshielded thrust bearing. Not! First drop a thrust washer down onto the diff screw. Then, apply a layer of moly grease. Then, place the uber-tiny balls onto the grease using the same hex key with a dab of grease method:

12.14.2015-11.28.png

It's a little tricky to get all the balls on the washer but with patience I was successful:

12.14.2015-11.28.png

Then the other thrust washer slips down the screw on top of the balls:

12.14.2015-11.33.png

Use an hex key to keep the diff screw inserted and still then drop the spring in followed by the diff nut:

12.14.2015-11.41.png

I used a small screw driver to incrementally tighten the spring and checked for rotation of the diff gear while holding the shafts still using a hex key. I made sure to tighten it up until it was very hard to turn the gear but it still turned, barely. I've read that it's poor form to over-tighten the spring until the gear didn't turn at all then back it off to where you want. It's much better to tighten slowly until it's to the spot you want without going further. I think I'd prefer a gear diff but I guess ball diffs are all the rage for racing. I suppose it's time for me to make the move. :mellow:

12.14.2015-11.43.png

Once it's all snugged up, all that's left is to install the shims and the bearings:

12.14.2015-11.43.png

With a completed ball differential, we're finished up with Step 1.

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Step 2: Idler gear. Gathering up the bits. Using the line drawings again to ensure I have all the proper parts.

12.14.2015-15.11.png

Building the idler gear is pretty simple. A couple of bearing and a shaft is all there is too it.

12.14.2015-15.12.png

Putting the counter gear onto the slipper shaft. This little pin holds it in place and the rubber o-ring keeps the pin in place.

12.14.2015-15.13.png

What it looks like with the o-ring in place:

12.14.2015-15.14.png

Freeing part N15 from it's sprue.

12.14.2015-15.15.png

The rest of the process is just to stack up a shim, the N17 and a bearing onto the slipper shaft.

12.14.2015-15.16.png

That's it for Step 2.

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This is what I've got so far:

12.14.2015-15.17.png

I know it doesn't look like much but I feel like I've gotten good work done today. :)

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Nice detailed build.

This gearbox is almost the same as the FF03. Did you spot the turn upside arrow? It's a bit smaller in the ff03 manual and people miss it.

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Nice detailed build.

This gearbox is almost the same as the FF03. Did you spot the turn upside arrow? It's a bit smaller in the ff03 manual and people miss it.

Yep, I sure did! Maaaaan. Now I have to tear it apart to see if I have the diff nut on the correct side, don't I? What happens if I didn't flip it over during construction because at this point it really is a 50/50 chance.

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Step 3: Gear case. Gathering up the bits. I had to assemble the Fine Pin Vise - [0.1-3.2mm] (ITEM# 74050) and RC M3x0.5mm Thread Forming Tap - Use with 74086 (ITEM# 54232) so that took like a second or two. Yeah, I know the tap is meant for a different tool but the other one is still in transit from Japan and I have the pin vice here. It seems to work fine using the largest insert which was hidden away in the handle. :huh: That took me a few to figure out! I got out the thread lock gel and then forgot to use it, so I had to pull the screws out after I had them in in order to apply the gel. Luckily I realized my oversight as I was tightening up the last screw rather than at the track when they were backing out due to vibration.

12.15.2015-08.06.png

I decided to use a little bit (we're talking a wicked small amount, almost non-existent) of Tamiya grease to lube the tap. I do this with the self tapping screws in other builds so it seemed like sound logic to use it here too.

12.15.2015-08.07.png

Making some threads:

12.15.2015-08.08.png

And I went a little too far. I thought for sure I'd be able to tell when the tap had bottomed out but no such luck. The plastic is domed but not broken through. I pushed it back down a bit with a small file. I sure do seem to be making a bunch little mistakes so far and I'm only on step 3! :wacko:

12.15.2015-08.09.png

Installing the counter gear:

12.15.2015-08.10.png

Applying a thin coat of moly grease with a cheap Testors paint brush.

12.15.2015-08.10.png

All the gears installed and lubed up.

12.15.2015-08.11.png

I did some research and it seems that the proper orientation of the differential is very unclear in the manual, and I agree. So the best I can suss out is that the diff nut needs to be facing this direction which should give access to the tensioner side of the ball diff thus allowing on-the-fly ball diff adjustment. I hope I'm right but at the rate I'm going, I've probably got this guy in backwards too. :blink:

12.15.2015-08.12.png

I'll continue with step 3 after dinner. ;)

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I would like to know if the metal gear is steel made or aluminum made.

Max

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Hey Max,

They seem like steel to me. Maybe someone with more authority / experience can corroborate my statement.

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The rest of Step 3. Technically this is the 2nd time around for me on this because in my first go I forgot to use the anaerobic thread locking gel. But I can be taught, see?

12.15.2015-08.14.png

All 4 screws are affixed and I cleaned off any excess AG to keep things from getting tacky, gross. I'm going to have to wait until next month to get that alternative motor plate that Speedy suggested so for now it's the stock jobber.

12.15.2015-08.14.png

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Step 4: Attaching spur gear: Not too many bits for this step.

12.15.2015-08.16.png

Gotta make a sandwich out of all these bits but here's the tricky part; the slipper pads (those are the hexagonal rubber jobbers), yeah they don't lay flat. They're intended to stay in the hexagonal indentation in the spur gear, but they like to push out. Since they and the pressure plates are both smaller diameter than the spur it's really quite the challenge to get everything all lined up correctly.

12.15.2015-08.18.png

I finally did manage to get it done though, not without a few well chosen curse words. ;) Once the built up slipper / spur assembly is in place, you pop on a spring and a washer and top it all off with a cherry, errr I mean a self-locking nut.

12.15.2015-08.18.png

Once again using a hex key to keep the gears from moving, I used my handy dandy Tamiya tool to tighten up the lock nut. A third hand would've really come in handy on this step!

12.15.2015-08.19.png

How do you know how far to tighten the slipper you ask? That's a very good question! As it just so happens, you turn to page 19 and it says to set it up for track conditions. Initial setting however is 1mm of thread protruding beyond the lock nut. Why did they have to send me to page 19 to tell me 1mm?

12.15.2015-08.20.png

That concludes step 4 and that also does it for me for today. Not sure if I'll get to work on this again until next weekend. Here's to hoping!

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Yeah Dorvack, that's pretty much spot on. That was a little too much. I've always put the thread lock on the screw rather than the nut, it's just how I was taught. As it turns out, on the motor plate I only put the AG on the one screw because once the motor plate was attached I didn't want thread lock pushed the whole way through the screw holes in the gear box.

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You just need a magnet to resolve the mistery.

;)

Max

Hey Max,

They seem like steel to me. Maybe someone with more authority / experience can corroborate my statement.

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You should be able tell right away with the weight. Alloy will be very light and a steel one considerably heavier. If the gear is a similar weight to a plastic part it will be alloy.

Nice build so far though. :)

The TRF cars really are a joy to build.

James

:)

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You just need a magnet to resolve the mistery.

;)

Max

Doh! You're so right. I feel like a moron for not thinking of that myself. If I open up the gearbox I'll definitely put a magnet to them. I'm 99% sure they're steel though.

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I found this information which answers my question about what might happen if I run the car with the diff nut installed backwards. The important bit is, "the screw gets inset and is not adjustable externally. This also causes the diff nut to protrude out and come in contact with the ball on the dog bone." I guess I'll be tearing down the gearbox and diff to ensure I have it correct. :wacko: I don't want to start out wrong and IMHO it's worth the hassle to check now than to repair later. Since I'll have it apart, I can get a magnet and verify that the gears are steel.

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Bad news: I definitely forgot to flip the ball diff during assembly.

Good news: It was easy to open up the gear box, partially disassemble the ball diff and correct my mistake.

Good news: Max, according to my magnet, the counter gear is steel. B)

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Step 5: Rear upper deck. Gathering up the bits. Sorry for the pic quality. Black parts on a black mat are a bit tough to make out. :huh: I guess that's what I get for building after dark. There's no sunlight coming through the window to help offset the parts. I'll try and do better next time.

12.15.2015-13.50.png

I can't seem to locate the "Dust covers". Can anyone give me a hint? Are they metal, plastic, rubber, maybe felt? I'm totally lost on these little jobbers.

05.18.2015-20.41.png

Part 1 is the rear upper deck. I tried to use the Tamiya tool to screw in the ball connectors like I've done in all my other builds but it was a fail.

12.15.2015-13.51.png

As it turns out, you're supposed to use a hex driver. I'm so glad I bought a set of TRF hex drivers. Trying to screw all these hex heads in with the supplied hex key would be a nightmare!

12.15.2015-13.52.png

Part 2 is the rear lower deck. I used a tiny little bit of Tamiya grease to help the threads cut into the new plastic.

12.15.2015-13.53.png

I had to hold tight (as you can see from my index finger) to get the screws to cut in. Once they got started it was much easier to keep going until they were snug.

12.15.2015-13.53.png

Step 6: Attaching the rear decks. Gathering up the bits. Yay! I get to work with the chassis frame already. So different than the DT-02 where the frame was one of the last things we touched. I also need the upper and lower deck from Step 5 and 8 screws. The 8mm ones seemed a little shorter than the illustration in the manual. I was so unsure I had the right screws that I got out my precision measurement tool and checked. Sure enough, they were 8mm. Go figure.

12.15.2015-13.54.png

Tightening down the 8mm screws to hold the upper deck onto the body.

12.15.2015-13.55.png

Tightening down the 10mm screws to hold the lower deck onto the body.

12.15.2015-13.55.png

That's it for Step 6 and that's also it for me tonight.

12.15.2015-13.57.png

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I found the "Dust cover for adjuster" (53980) in the sticker bag of all places. Gee, I wonder why that eluded me? Here's a picture of it to help others find it in the future. It's basically just a strip of black foam with donuts pre-cut into it that you sort of pop out. I've added a Tamiya tool for size reference purposes.

12.15.2015-14.01.png

And here's what they look like installed:

12.15.2015-14.02.png

I ordered up a few spare parts:

  • A set of RC Reinforced F Parts - TRF201 Front Suspension Arms (Item# 54265) as Speedy suggested
  • A tube of RC Ball Diff Grease Set - U53042 (Item# 53042) since the teeny little tube supplied with the kit is all used up
  • A replacement RC A Parts: 42167 (Item# 9004269) since I got a little over zealous with the thread tapping tool and domed a little bit of plastic
  • Some RC Dust Cover for Adjuster (Item# 53980) because those look easy to lose or damage
  • Spare RC Ball Diff Spring - Order 9949299 (Item# 49299) because it seems these guys are easily over tightened which breaks them

Seriously, now I'm going to bed. :D

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Loving your work! This is really detailed build and your covering it nicely :) I agree with speedy and also use a 54276 aluminum motor plate and the reinforced suspension arms. Keep up the great work!

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Loving your work! This is really detailed build and your covering it nicely :) I agree with speedy and also use a 54276 aluminum motor plate and the reinforced suspension arms. Keep up the great work!

Thank you for the nice compliment. I do plan on getting the motor plate and the other bits Speedy suggested, they're just going to have to wait a few months is all as I've blown my R/C budget pretty badly these last few weeks. The Mrs will have my head if I continue to over do it.

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Thank you for the nice compliment. I do plan on getting the motor plate and the other bits Speedy suggested, they're just going to have to wait a few months is all as I've blown my R/C budget pretty badly these last few weeks. The Mrs will have my head if I continue to over do it.

I feel your pain! I always start a build with a budget in mine I have never once managed to stay within said budget :blink: My wee trick is to load my paypal account with money each payday and when there's enough buy what I need etc so the better half doesn't see the family account getting lighter B) I also used to drink a lot of coffee and at $4NZ dollars it adds up fast during the course of a week! I don't drink coffee anymore and instead that money now goes into the RC account! Gotta say it wasn't pretty giving up coffee but well :) worth it

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