Super Astute Jeek's Specs Build

[jeekelemental 528]

Today all the parts ordered during the past weeks are arrived at home so I haven't had more excuses to start the build.

I will not re-build the car following the manual, it will be a kind of random build considering step-by-step what could be better to obtain a full jeek's specs buggy.

[jeekelemental 528]

During the build of the front bulkhead I noticed that I Was wrong ordering the stainless steel screws of the same lenght spite the original... stainless steel nuts are taller so I have had to trim some screws for first.

[jeekelemental 528]

This evening I've assembled the TTC. For first the housings: new plastic parts, polished plate, stainless steel screws and new bearings.

[jeekelemental 528]

The following steps:

The differential rebuilt with the original and cleaned parts but unfortunately the screws aren't correct. It's packed with anti-seize grease.

Gears ready and ballraced:

[jeekelemental 528]

Gears in place with ceramic grease.

[jeekelemental 528]

And after the slipper clutch: all the metal hardware is new (axle excluded), the spur (as other plastic gears and washers are the original but cleaned).

[jeekelemental 528]

Transmission assembled. Motor (16x2 refurbished by me) already in place

[jeekelemental 528]

[jeekelemental 528]

Last two shots for the evening!

Left:

Right:

[jeekelemental 528]

I want to add that I'm very happy for how the car looks and how is growing up.

The refurbished Corally motor (16x2) that sits on the back looks awesome, 20t and 21t pinions are on the way and I have, only, to wait for the shakedown to decide if going down or up with turns).

I have to order all the uniballs, all the turnbuckles and the connected hardware but, more or less, is all defined.

I have to devise something really smart and simple for the battery strap... I've already got a raw idea about it.

Contrariwise no ideas concerning shocks and body paint, but they are long to come.

[kontemax 1725]

21 teeth pinion gears for sure but a brushed 11 x 2 (or brashless equivalent) will be better for this gear ratio.

Excellent job done here.

What about the front bulkhead? Is it 3D printed?

Max

[jeekelemental 528]

21 teeth pinion gears for sure but a brushed 11 x 2 (or brashless equivalent) will be better for this gear ratio.

Excellent job done here.

What about the front bulkhead? Is it 3D printed?

Max

Max I never owned a 11x2... :-D

All plastic swapped for 3d printed except the tranny housings.

[kontemax 1725]

Included the arms???

Max

[z00ter 392]

this has got to be the most interesting build yet I do hope you will continue once you have started using the buggy to update on the 3D plastic parts good and bads.

[jeekelemental 528]

Included the arms???

Max

Nope! I'm going to use MadCap's arms all around.

[kontemax 1725]

Mmhh... I suggest to find the Super Astute arms, they are far away better and saves your rear dampers.

Max

[Thommo 1217]

Contrariwise no ideas concerning shocks and body paint, but they are long to come.

You will need to make the shock selection carefully. With the Madcap arms and standard front shock tower, Hi-Cap dampers will work perfectly. If you choose modern dampers (like TRF buggy dampers), you will almost certainly have to use a taller custom front shock tower. I only just recently found this out with my Super Astute build.

[jeekelemental 528]

Mmhh... I suggest to find the Super Astute arms, they are far away better and saves your rear dampers.

Max

Why? MadCap's arms could damage dampers?

[jeekelemental 528]

You will need to make the shock selection carefully. With the Madcap arms and standard front shock tower, Hi-Cap dampers will work perfectly. If you choose modern dampers (like TRF buggy dampers), you will almost certainly have to use a taller custom front shock tower. I only just recently found this out with my Super Astute build.

This will be useful, thaks a lot :-)

[kontemax 1725]

The Madcap arms are very flexibles.

This means some things:

1) Your car will be less precise when it runs (but this is not necessarily a bad thing. It's just a characteristic).

2) Your car will be less prone to breakages.

3) Madcap arms and front bulkhead have different measurements from Astute and Super Astute ones, so you will alter the geometries of the front suspension and the wheelbase lenght. You can also have some issues with the front dampers that will stay more inclined than they need.

4) the flection of the rear arms will make the rear upper links to scratch over the damper cylinders. They will get ruined quickly.

5) At the end the SA arms are better designed, you can change the weight balance of the rear end and the lenght of the wheelbase and they have a better geometry design, also on front end. In addition you can add a brace at the rear arms.

Check my Astute guides on my TC profile, you will find there more infos.

Max

Why? MadCap's arms could damage dampers?

[jeekelemental 528]

Thanks Maxs, exhaustive as usual :-)

[jeekelemental 528]

This evening I've continued the build of my Super Astute with the last 3D printed part I've purchased and adding the wing posts on the shocks tower.

Not much but another step forward
I'm a bit disappointed by the german stainless (?) steel screws because of the weakness of the head and because of the rawness of the small M3 self locking nuts (I found some far better nuts in a normal DIY shop in Venice).

[jeekelemental 528]

Thanks to Mastino, that sent me a full set of DT02 arms, I spent some time considering the idea of a little revolution.
For the front end it's a direct fit and at the rear end some minor modifications to the rear arms mounts are needed because DT's arms are a little bit narrower.
There is a natural gain of wideness but to quantify it the modifiy have to be complete.

[mastino 1085]

super sand viper astute! No guts, no glory!

[Thommo 1217]

Very interesting ! Regarding the front arms damper position, will you be mounting the upper damper at the back of the front tower now instead of in front of it ?

Could the front arms be flipped over ?