Vintage Tamiya help. (Bush Devil + Taisan Porsche)

[stedaley 0]

Hey guys!!

Im new to this so i was wondering if i could get some help!!

Firstly I got given an vintage Bush devil to fix so i thought id make it a 2 car show!

I picked up a vintage taisan 911 porsche and am looking to fix up both and restore them!

Firstly they are both in pretty good condition with id say 99% of the parts intact, with a good clean up and slight improvement they will be as good as new!!

Shall start with the Porsche.

-recieved it today and can see the back of the body is rubbing the wheel, it seems to be sitting very low but i cant seem to see why? the body is in alright condition, the front sits well on the frame, its just the back.

-I presume it hasnt been run in a long time so need to clean it up, Id be willing to restore the parts but need a supplier in the uk, anyone used any good ones before?

-Id like to restore the shell, it looks original but has cracks and scratches as was expected, is it even possible?

Now on to the bush devil

-This is in better condition than the Porsche, with only one fault, the front tracking arm has snapped off the support as it was only plastic (and very thing to be holding the support arm), so will need a need a new part with either stronger plastic or a metal support. any ideas if any one has done this or knows where to source?

I have all the original tech on both, so will need a new battery no doubt, but i would like to keep them fairly original, or if i could swap out parts for running them and still have all original parts for swapping back in when i display them.

if you have any ideas let me know!!

Ste

[Crash Cramer 617]

Any chance you have some of the photos to go with??? On the front support piece for the BD, same things happen to the Super Blackfoot part rendering that parts tree SUPER expensive for whatever reason and it isn't that easy to find a loose "arrowhead" part as I call it(shape is similar) I had hoped to find a 3D printer person to mock one up and simply print them off individually, but that hasn't panned out. The OLD part from cars like the Frog and Brat and Blackfoot, Monster Beetle, don't really work out for the later two cars, so finding a replacment like I said could be hard.

I did buy a modified set up once from eBay, but it was a piece that allowed a lot of slop as it was a ONE OFF repair kind of thing. I have struggled forever in posting photos on the forum, so I still don't know how to and I am uncertain I have a good photo of this part in my showroom.

I wish you luck and onto the Porsche, has someone perhaps cut the rear body mounts too short??

[stedaley 0]

I dont have any pictures of the BD, but i have seen that part being particularly hard to find. I may be able to sweet talk a CAD?CAM aluminium milling machine to creat a thinner solid piece. or at least some strengthening pieces.

I do have some of the porsche but they are too big to post...

the read body mounts have been cut but are there supposed to be clips under and over the shell? or just over?

[Flerbizky 225]

I dont have any pictures of the BD, but i have seen that part being particularly hard to find. I may be able to sweet talk a CAD?CAM aluminium milling machine to creat a thinner solid piece. or at least some strengthening pieces.

I do have some of the porsche but they are too big to post...

the read body mounts have been cut but are there supposed to be clips under and over the shell? or just over?

Over and under is my guess.

As for the pictures - upload them to Imgur.com and link them here.

[stedaley 0]

http://i.imgur.com/N64YUEAl.jpg

thats how the car sits...

[Flerbizky 225]

http://i.imgur.com/N64YUEAl.jpg

thats how the car sits...

That definitely needs a clip under the body (:

[stedaley 0]

I agree!!!

Where is the best place to source parts form?/

[Flerbizky 225]

IMHO, the Bay of Fleas.

[Crash Cramer 617]

Ha, the bay of fleas, vs the bay of pigs????
I agree, small body clip UNDER and over the body would fix it up surely. The build manual is quite specific on most road cars(M chassis is my knowledge) on just where to cut the body posts and then where to put the clips both under and over. Since you didn't do the cutting, you can always count from the bottom and double check the posts weren't cut too short.

Please start sweet talking that CAD/CAM as I think an alu piece would look both very cool and provide a better option for WHEN IT BREAKS as opposed to IF it breaks. It really doesn't help that the bumper is attached to the part too.

[Flerbizky 225]

Also - if you don't have the manual for the kits, they can be found at Tamiyusa.com:https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/4wd-shaft-drive-on-road-(ta)-36150/rc-taisan-starcard-porsche-911-58172

[stedaley 0]

thanks guys!!

if i was to use the GT2 starcard, would it be worth buying useable parts for it? and keeping the originals separate?

I think i got a bargain buying it, so i have some cash to spend on it!

[InsaneJim69 1584]

Regarding the Porsche. The body and all plastic parts are to be re released soon, so don't pay any premium prices imo. The decals are hard to find, although replicas are available, but not as good finish quality to the originals. So don

T be too rash buying partsfor it of the chassis, as Ī believe the chassis is being rereleased too.

If your chassis has he all important grey gearbox covers and are in good condition then hang on to them. As I cant see the re release having those, although I could be wrong.

James

[stedaley 0]

yer its an all original model,

i was more saying part that i could run instead of original parts, or would it be better waiting for the rerelease parts?

In regards to the shell, is it possible to restore it?

[InsaneJim69 1584]

Depending on the condition of the body, yes a restore can be done on lexan to an adequate state, but def not shelf state imo. But easilly to a state that from a few feet away its hard to notice any defects. I have recently bought another Tamiya Porsche 911 GT 1 , which was in bad shape front all split etc, but just recently repaired it and its now looking very good indeed.

Imo wait for the re release and buy one, then you can build a mint shelf example with all the best parts and possibly some original parts too. And then sell the other one as a runner, or use the other one as a runner as am doing with my Porsche 911 GT1

James

[stedaley 0]

How did you go about fixing the shell? Any tips?

and very true, i would like to try and keep it as a restored runner and swap over to a used shell when i do use it and swap it back when i shelf it.

[InsaneJim69 1584]

If you post up pics of the damage, then it can be assessed and advised.

But for large front splits, they need backed with reinforcements of either old bits of polycarb cut to size and glued on. But all depends where the damage is and if that part needs painted again.

James.

[XV Pilot 1936]

If the bodyshell is split, it will never be perfect again. However it can be made to look pretty good again as follows:

Strip the paint using your chosen method - brake fluid, Tamiya paint remover or whatever.

Stabilise the cracks from the outside, using a good masking tape or similar.

Spray the shell from the inside with the polycarbonate paint of your choice.

Reinforce the cracked areas on the inside with scrap polycarbonate and a flexible glue such as Shoe Goo.

Once this is set, remove the stabilising tape from the outside, and the shell will be as close to good-as-new as you are going to get it.

[stedaley 0]

http://i.imgur.com/j2LsVbb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CDeuy3S.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PU59lV9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NnC48mq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6tb6d8U.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xDgzJvk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/521QcpE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1ltCPlY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2Ks5Sqe.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JkQ10tK.jpg

i think theyre all there!!

Got all the breaks in

[stedaley 0]

and whats the best way to remove the paint? in order to repaint?

Acetone and Polyethylene Glycol come to mind, but im not sure what is actually used on models?

any ether based liquid will take the paint off, but obviously dont want to damage the plastic,

[GregM 1109]

Carson Lexan Paint Killer worked well for me removing Tamiya PS paint in some spots. It is essentially Methoxypropanol PM, which I used with great results for removing Tamiya primer, TS paint and X paint on styrene and resin parts.

I'd avoid Acetone at all costs.

[stedaley 0]

acetone too strong for the plastic?

Ill have a look around for that

[XV Pilot 1936]

Acetone too strong for the plastic?

Indeed, especially if it is old plastic. I tried it once on an old shell and while it removed the paint, it also removed several large chunks of the shell itself.

Rather use one of the established methods - brake fluid, or a preparation designed for Lexan such as the Tamiya or Carson products.

[stedaley 0]

Brake fluid is easily picked up, i shall have a go with that!!

[redzone 212]

Most brake fluid will turn the lexan cloudy