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nosthevamp

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About nosthevamp

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  1. It is pretty for a thing of destruction, but it is a modern tank, not WW2. You may be getting it mixed up with the WW2 big cats, the Panther and Tigers
  2. Thanks for the heads up. Found it, but it ain't cheap, plus shipping costs. Seems quite rare, and would be far to heavy I would have thought. Must admit it looks good, puts me in mind of the Corgi one I had in 1967 although this one is a lot bigger.
  3. How about the 1966 batmobile or is that to early? Much better than the more modern incarnations IMHO
  4. Brasso works well. I've bought a tin of Tamiya Metalic red to do an old mud blaster body I'd stripped the old paint off, Will it be enough, for just a covering coat? nothing fastic wanted, its just a basher I made up from old parts i collected on an old frog chassis.
  5. I think its pretty cool to. There are quite a lot of ugly cars, but this ain't one of 'em.
  6. I think its pretty cool to. it deffinatly ain't ugly. there are quite a lot of ugly cars
  7. I had a virtually unused TEU-104BK ESC languishing in an old frog based buggy. It was fitted with an old silver-can and an old Futaba BEC 27MHz stick system. All worked fine. Later on I changed the ESC & motor in this for an even more basic ESC, as I wanted the TEU-104BK ESC to go with a new Sports Tunned I was putting in a new FF03. I got a new 2.4 ghz gear with BEC, and after running throught he setup sequence in the TEU-104BK manual all is running fine.
  8. Me too. The TT01 engine mount is clearly a lot better designed/stronger than the TA01 which definatly needs changing. Some Hop-Ups can be aesthetic, but this one is hid away out of sight so if it doesn't do what Greg suggests it may be better spending the money on something that does, or at least can be seen.
  9. Not sure if you can still get it, but the best stuff to get rust off chrome (the original springs are chrome plated) is "Solvel Autosol". If you can't find any you could try Brasso for Chrome, or even Brillo pads.
  10. Yea thats the heat sink that came with my TT01D
  11. If the motor mount takes heart away from the motor I would be a little concerned. As the mount is totaly enclosed within the plastic chassis and not open to the air the only place for the heat to go then is into the chassis, possibly damaging it. Perhaps it would be better with the plastic mount acting as an insulator between the motor and chassis. Cheers for the input guys.
  12. I have a TT01D - Type E fitted with a 12t brushless motor. At the moment it is still fitted with the original plastic engine mount. Would I be better getting the metal hop-up version, and what would it give? I have fitted a metal mount to my old TA01, but only because the plastic one was broken. Other cars I have that have metal mounts, have them as part of the cooling system. Whereas the TT01's engine mount is not, and this version comes with cooling fins.
  13. It's the other way around, the original batch had white bodies (with flat mudguards), the later came with red (but I thought they still had the flat gaurds). I know as I still have the original I bought for my son when they where first released. Also the glass on the original had a bit more tint. That said unless you paid hundreds for it, it is a very good base for a restoration with most bits there. Oh yea it looks like the front mount is from the Black Foot, but someone has just started making Monster Beetle alloy ones.
  14. I thought the WW2 Jeep had no centre diff at all, which was the cause of its poor on road handling. I don't think my TA01 or TT01 have them either, so not quite sure how they manage as they are both on road.
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