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ChrisRx718

Jimny 58614 Build

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I'll start off by saying that I was building this on Sunday night and beer was consumed - so apologies for the quality of some of the pictures! (they looked good at the time I promise!)

Kit arrived on Saturday which was nice-

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I had bought the following in anticipation -

54114 - CR Tuned Motor (35T)

53597 - M-03 Universal Driveshafts

51425 - M-05ra F-Parts Uprights (replaces parts moulded in red)

51436 - M-06 PRO 3X34mm Ball-Head Suspension Shaft Not compatible in the end

54606 - One Piece Lwr Sus Arm Set - M-05 Ver.II (actually left over from my M-06 build but figured I'd use them!)

53301 - TL-01 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set

Electronics used:

Blue Bird BMS-631 servo

Hobbywing 1060 LiPo compatible ESC

HobbyKing HK3100 2.4ghZ receiver

On to the build!

Step 3-7: Rear Gearbox Assembly

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Anyone familiar with building a TL01 will recognise these parts as they are completely identical - the only difference being the square outdrives vs the splined version found in the old TL01. I was slightly shocked to see that Mr T had included 2 (yes, 2!!) tubes of the standard grease - usually you are only supplied with one tiny little tube to use sparingly.

The only variation from spec was that I packed the rear diff with Tamiya TRF Gear Diff Putty. I didn't get any pictures of this stage as needless to say, it is very fiddly! I was glad when it was over...

Step 3 contained this curiousity - the application of some sponge tape?!

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Rear Diff and Counter Gear in place - I have used rubber-sealed ball bearings throughout, with one exception later in the build.

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The other half of the gearbox, and another sponge curiousity:

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Rear Gearbox completed, rear upper suspension mount attached:

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This concludes Step 7.

Step 8-11: Steering Servo Setup and Installation

Another variation from spec, I have opted to use a Tamiya Hi-Torque servo saver in place of the standard kit item:

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Steering arms; I swapped out the kit threaded shafts with some 32mm turnbuckles

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Attaching the servo to the 'cradle' in which it is held-

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This cradle is very rigid, especially with the servo fixed at all 4 corners. I was almost certainly going to buy the upcoming hop-up aluminium part, but I'm not so sure now!

The next step is awkward; because of the position of the steering servo (transverse if you will) the kit is supplied with 3 different spacers which are sandwiched between the 'cradle' holding the servo and the chassis. The idea is that you can then position the servo so the steering pivot is in the centreline of the chassis. Easier said than done.

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Example of one of the spacers is in the lower right of the above picture.

Now we have two halves of a chassis (almost) -

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This concludes Step 11.

Step 12-15: Front Gearbox Assembly

Standard specification with the exception of the ball bearings, I built the front differential up with minimal grease to keep things smooth.

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Front half of chassis now complete:

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Curiously the little side 'spats' for the battery retainers are not the same as those found on the TL01.

This concludes Step 15.

Steps 16-18: Chassis Spacer and Propshaft Installation

The Jimny is to be built with 225mm wheelbase. The MF-01X offering 3 wheelbases in total, 210, 225 and 239mm.

The modular chassis is easily put together like a jigsaw, with each opposing section slotting into one another.

Someone asked if it would be possible to build the MF-01X with no spacers at all...

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You absolutely could! I measured it to be around 185mm diff-to-diff.

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This was the only disappointment of the build for me - the spacer sections of the chassis didn't slot together particularly well and indeed I was able to over-tighten a screw which warped the spacer 'block'. Backing the screw off returned the section to its' desired shape, but it's not something you see in Tamiya mouldings typically.

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The Propshaft is of the exact construction of the old TL01 shaft - albeit of varied length of course. It's weighty, too - so expect a variety of lightweight alternatives to follow, particularly when we see the first low-specification road-going variation of the MF01 chassis.

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This is the only exception to the rubber-sealed ball bearings, the two inner-most bearings on the propshaft are actually flanged 850 bearings. I still don't understand why the kit comes with regular 850 nylon bearings yet when 'upgrading' to ball bearings you have to use a flanged type. They do slot neatly into a recess in the side of the chassis though:

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This concludes Step 18.

At this stage it was difficult not to make a quick comparison to the TL01 I had on the bench for repairs:

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They look very similar, especially given the lightweight chassis hop-up on the TL01 being of the same grey coloured plastic as the MF01 chassis.

I'll post up the second half of the build tomorrow...

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Looks to be a great kit! Thanks for writing up a build thread :)

185 mm - does this mean a Honda City Turbo shell can be adapted to fit?!

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Great to see build thanks, wonder what the square foam does? lol did you use standard size servo? instructions look to have mounting for low profile one to.

I expect I will start mine before year is out lol

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185 mm - does this mean a Honda City Turbo shell can be adapted to fit?!

I had exactly the same thought when I read that... 4x4 Rally Wheeler!

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4x4 F1?! This day is too much for me - although I figure those bodies will not fit well even if the wheelbase of 260 mm works!

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Cool build, not a massive fan of the Jimny but I like the new (ish) chassis.

Are those wheels from the Golf GTi Mk4?

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Great to see build thanks, wonder what the square foam does? lol did you use standard size servo? instructions look to have mounting for low profile one to.

I expect I will start mine before year is out lol

Still no idea about the square foam, one theory I have is that there may have been a squeaking / rubbing of the plastic gearbox halves without it, since the foam gets 'sandwiched' between certain parts during assembly - what do I know!

That might have been me... I was also wondering if you could attach more than one space and stretch the chassis out to, maybe... 260mm?

Dorvack.

The other spacer is 30mm - so you'd end up nearer 255mm / not far off of touring car length.

Cool build, not a massive fan of the Jimny but I like the new (ish) chassis.

Are those wheels from the Golf GTi Mk4?

They are indeed, albeit plated with a sort of shadow-y chrome. Not sure I like them to be honest!

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Next stage-

Steps 19 - 23 Installation of rear suspension

I mentioned earlier that I had some one-piece suspension arms left over that didn't arrive in time for my M-06 project. They are a bit unnecessary on this build but I used them anyway! As for the rear upper control arms; I swapped out the stock threaded shaft for a set of blue aluminium turnbuckles.

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Stainless Steel TL01 hinge pins replaced the stock screw pins-

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Steps 24 - 25 Installing rear hubs and dampers

For the dampers I went overkill and used a set of Touring car TRF dampers stolen from one of my TA03s. These are silky smooth but the yellow springs were way too hard in the end and were swapped for something else later in the build

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In place:

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One observation about the rear right-hand suspension is that the upper control arm actually comes into contact with the propshaft gear cover. Downward travel is therefore at maximum in the MF01X configuration, this would probably work better with more clearance on the low ride-height setup.

Steps 26 - 32 - Installation of front suspension

I got lazy with the pictures here as this is an almost identical step to anything M-chassis related,

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I went for Universals on the front, the stock driveshaft angle is quite acute, so I may upgrade the rear dogbones in future too.

Front dampers, bumper and bodyposts fitted -

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As a bonus, the TL-01 quick-release battery holder does fit to this chassis;

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Steps 33-36 Installation of motor, wheels and electronics.

I went for a CR Tuned 35T motor for my Jimny, powered by a Hobbywing 1060 ESC for its' Lipo cut-off. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of the motor being installed, sorry about that. Pretty straightforward though.

I also modified a TT01 motor heat sink to fit, by removing a single fin from one side. This was surplus to requirements and I think it just adds a bit of bling.

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Chassis complete!

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You can see here I have swapped the springs out for some nice squishy soft gold coloured springs (no idea of origin).

Finally some comparison shots with other chassis-

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Bodyshell next....

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Thanks looks great, and it seems many M-03 options I have will fit to hehe, though the TRF dampers maybe to short but I think has a spacer in side maybe need to check.

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Took this out for a little test drive today - it's really loud?!

I'm going to check the mesh on the pinion, but I think it's just a result of the complex gearbox, although I'm sure my TL01 is quieter....

I'm going to say something controversial now - I think this little rig is more capable off-road than my CC01. There - I said it.

The approach angle is much better, the little bumper protrudes barely further than the front tyres, so you can attack near-enough vertical obstacles!

I only locked my rear diff, but I imagine it would be even more capable with the front diff locked too. One more observation - the turning circle seemed quite large. Possibly an affliction of big wheels on a tiny car and not enough steering angle, but could also just be the grass surface I was running on. Of course I've never run the M06 on grass so don't know what effect it is having.

Must paint!

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Sounds promising. Doesn't surprise me that it's more capable that the CC01, that chassis needs a major overhaul.

I did an off road driving day when I worked for Suzuki UK, they had a selection of different 4x4's from their range to drive but the most capable was the little Jimny. It's narrow so could fit through gaps the others couldn't, short wheel base meant it didn't ground out over obstacles, had the tightest turning circle and the front and rear approach angles meant it could pretty much get over anything you drove it at 😉

Just imagine how much better it'll be with some slightly bigger tyres fitted!

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Just once I'd like to hear someone say of a new Tamiya design, "wow, this thing steers much better than I expected!" (hey, a guy can dream, right?)

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Haha!

I didn't say it was bad - certainly it's better in every respect when compared to the CC01 - which is what I have to compare it to as they both run on the same surface. Ground clearance, steering circle, grip and approach angle - all better. It loses out on scale realism but it really looks the part running around at ankle height!

I really want to make a drift version now, I think it would be quite capable.

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Thanks for test drive info, do you think locking diffs etc means it does not turn so so tight?

is there scope for adding more turn to wheels? I was hoping it be able to turn quite tight as plan to use in garden etc.

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I was intending to try swapping TL01 arms onto mine when I eventually get it for wider stance. That should push the wheels out to allow more clearance for steering and larger tyres. I'm thinking to open the wheel arches up a bit for that weekend off-roader look. Obviously it'll need TL01 drive shafts for that.

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Final step was of course the body,

I think I pointed out already the bizarre use of Pajero Metaltop wingmirrors on this model. Even more bizarre is that they don't actually fit - until you modify them!

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With that out of the way it was time to think about colours. I had considered just silver (like those seen at the hobby show) or boxart blue... but in the end went for a more European-spec 2-tone paintjob.

First and foremost you must paint some black details onto the body. I did this with a brush and some PC-5 paint.

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I then set about masking. It wasn't too tricky - the wheel arches slowed me down a bit though, getting the curves right. I didn't take any pictures of the masking process, I was too busy sticking tape to myself and generally swearing.

This was the first peel-back of the protective film though - mmmmm!

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Stickers for this model were pretty straightforward. It was nice to see Tamiya back to their routes of supplying the window rubber surrounds but allowing you to choose whether to have clear or tinted windows, rather than having to stick one gigantic tinted sticker on.

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I decided that the standard wheels did this little truck absolutely no justice at all, so swapped on some white wheels onto the other side. The wheels are by Yokomo and designed for an AE86 Corolla drift car, but I think they look nice and chunky on this little off-roader.

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You may also notice I added a spare wheel and a sticker on the back. There is also an exhaust tip, albeit a bit 'racy' for this kind of vehicle I didn't have anything else that would fit in the confined space.

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So that's that folks, I hope you enjoyed the build. I'm sure many modifications will follow!

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Looks great thanks for info to. I am thinking of standard silver as have that already to lol.

The wheels sure don't look quite right. Think I'm gone be raiding my mo3 lol

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Great thread Chris,

I agree on the kit wheels, they just don't look right with this bodyshell.

Rob

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I wouldn't fancy being in that if it went around a corner too fast, it looks very high 😮

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Had a few hours last night wife at cinema lol, few beers thought may as well start! Strange this foam tape lol

Agh photo to big to post on from iPad lol

It's far easier to using proper jst screwdrivers got tamiya ones nice handles to

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Wonderful build and paint. I have one of these that should be arriving any day. Excited to build it. The only thing I disagree with you on are the wheels. I think the kit wheels look so much better than the white ones you put on.

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Me neither - I think I might try some F350 wheels next.

One thing this model really suffers with is body wobble - because the rear is so high. I know tamiya make a rear body post stiffener for the M05 which one would assume should fit, but how effective is it? I don't want to order if it's just aftermarket bling!

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I ran mine earlier seems pretty good, nice size. Just trimmed body and realised holes are not drilled! Cost cutting I guess lol

Is the norm to drill the? Start off smaller up to 6mm?

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I typically start with a 2mm drillbit that centers nicely in the dimples, then work up to the necessary size in 0.5mm increments so the hole doesn't wander.

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