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Scorchio

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About Scorchio

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  • Birthday 10/07/1967

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    scorchiotc@hotmail.com
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  1. Many thanks GP! Many thanks! Now theres a question. I must have got them about 8 years ago, but cant for the life of me remember what they are. They come with ball ends the same size as SRB steering rods. I just bored them through with a 3mm drill bit. I'll have a dig through my favourites as I know theres an F150 out there I liked with them. UPDATE! Found it in Dante77's showroom, they are "3Racing from a Tamiya Tamtech GB-01" https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=84783&id=19357 Not sure if this means out of stock or discontinued, but can also recommend JC-RC shocks on eBay. https://www.3racing-parts.com/tamiya-gb01-aluminium-front-and-rear-damper-set-light-blue-color-3racing-gb06lb-p-10001026.html
  2. Hectic at work for a while, some time off but got into some finishing up yesterday after recovering from Victorious festival. All previous changes mentioned have been made with lower screen and re printed cage with lower front bar. Re print and colour changes on engine. I've been mostly painting engine parts the last few weeks when time allowed. Quite pleased with my choice of driver head. Ive had terrible problems with liquid chrome reacting to a clear coat I used on number plate cover and rear lights. Will need to be stripped right back and I'll have to go full chrome on rear lights. . In and out of modelling software trying to get the front badge to print with "adequate" detail. But on the whole pretty much there with this one, just dash board rear details and HT leads to do (no idea how I'm going to do HT leads). Steering wheel paint also needs finishing, looking for a wood effect for it. In other news I've just discovered the "insert into post" button for images, RESULT! As I've long forgotten HTML for it. Oh yes, and I am aware rears wheels are wrong way round in pics.
  3. I'm with others on this one, I think the Scorpion wheels look much better!
  4. I must say, looking at my Sand Rover body shells now, they do look very long in the bonnet. I can see another being built in the future. Maybe more of a basher with a more "off the wall" colour scheme. Blue Marble perhaps? Ive managed to find a Manx front badge to print and will model a centre fuel cap for this. No sign of a Manx rear badge so will have to model one.
  5. LOVE IT! Some nice details, and actually looks like fun to drive.
  6. Went out and replicated garden run last night and no return of crack, so calling chassis done. There will be a slowdown in updates as I'm re printing engine and instrument panel etc in highest resolution, 0.1mm layer height which takes some time. Will be painting engine bits as they come off the printer.
  7. Just popped up in my feed, long time figuring out where to post, but suppose it is a Tamiya ReRe.
  8. I see your metalwork skills are on point as ever!
  9. Will be watching this, nice looking kit!
  10. Crack fixed and solid again. Only glued not epoxy puttied, to be sure what I've done prevents it happening again. Made a new much beefier front body post with 2mm added height to match spacer. Instead of printing an entire tub spacer I just started with a BIG washer to test everything still slots together nicely with no stress points. Body now sitting nicely on chassis with no bends or stress points anywhere, all fixing points touching mounts without screws, and yes I've now put all 3 chassis screws in the gearbox. Got an LRP banana to deans cable as it has no balancing wires coming out the top of the bananas, and shortened the negative lead. Now all fits nicely under passenger seat. Done some drop tests and everything feeling really solid for a 3d print now, i can pick it up by the cage with battery in, and turn it over without so much as a creek or click. It may sound like I have terrible things in mind for it, but Its not going to be a full on "basher", but I'd like to spend more time having fun driving it than fixing it or re-printing bits. Currently printing a new windscreen (windshield) with a 10mm chop, saw a 1:1 online with lower screen and liked the look of it, punted a guess at 4" lower.
  11. Crack problem identified, all my own work, nothing to do with Knights Customs at all. Before I go on the test run was 5 minutes up and down the lawn (terrible uneven lawn, we've just moved in) with a standard 540 motor and never over 2/3 throttle. Rear cage is now tweaked and re printed, rear bar lowered 3mm down to exhaust, old bar was pushing rear of body up by about 2 mm, not much but enough when you consider the other things below. I noticed while removing body that there is a 2mm gap between the body shell and chassis. Body sits on top of gearbox front, the chassis attached below it, gearbox front sandwiched between. So front screw pulls body down by 1-2mm and bends chassis up by 1-2mm. You can see the gap in pic below (with front screw loosened off), this means body is actually floating and flexing from gearbox screw (yes I only had middle one screwed in) to front body mount which is now sheared off. Not a problem, just print another. New body mount will be re-modelled and beefed up in a cone shape from chassis up. Im going to print out a 2mm SRB chassis shaped pad to fill the gap, with a couple more forward mounting points up to the front of the tub and epoxy bond it to the tub underside. If id printed out the knights chassis (which I didn't do because I couldn't be bothered to edit my printer firmware) and not used the SRB chassis I doubt any of this would have happened, but I think this route "may" be stronger. ONWARDS! P.S. Top left of pic highlights print lines I mentioned earlier, showing through beautifully.
  12. A productive day yesterday. Went in with the Molotow Liquid Chrome pen, results varied between "AMAZING!" and "Oh my god, please NO". parts have to be SO smooth and life is just too short for smoothing small fragile 3d printed parts. So I've raided the re-re parts trees for SS rear lights & number plate light cover, the Sand Rover Tree for headlights & Steering wheel + column and gear shifter. Headlights look great (but cant touch them as it dulls) Exhaust looks horrible so going matt white with that, and oil filler down tube looks like Gandolf's walking stick. Wind screen surround also looks terrible. I'm going to take some part files into work and see if I can get them resin or SLS nylon printed, more detailed and no print lines. I installed the electrics and wired everything up and took it for a run up and down the garden, all good and great fun! but 2 small cracks appeared, not its paint thankfully. One crack at lower rear of the tub in front of rear wheel where the join is. The upper parts are reinforced with wire and epoxy putty so really strong but lower part is just edge too edge. The other just behind what would be rear electrical box mount on an SRB pretty sure the two are related. As you can see from photo of rear, the body is right down on the rear cage, I'm back in 3ds Max lowering top bar of cage, raising shock mounts by 2mm and lowering mounts that go through parcel shelf. I may delete those mounts completely as they are a bit redundant with bolts through cage.
  13. Absolutely nothing on telly last night, ended up on Thingiverse downloading heads. So...... Who's driving? Quite liking the nonchalant look of Michelangelo's David.
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