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Byteme909

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About Byteme909

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  1. I'm sorry I don't have the link anymore, it was listed for around 300k yen and I believe the final price was around 250k or so. Aside from the two listed on Tamiyaclub by Tamiyaman and B-collection, the Japan car, yours and my own are the only ones I know of that are still NIB and unbuilt with yours and Tamiya man being sealed ones. The yahoo Japan car did not indicate chassis number either.
  2. I have an extra set of SOK McLaren decals, trim/details and the livery sheet.
  3. There was a TRF414X on Yahoo Japan about a month ago or so. It is NIB but not sealed and appeared to be complete. Just out of curiosity does the sealed box indicate which number chassis at all?
  4. As far as I know PC paint, water based, and oil based paints may all be used on hard plastic bodies but lexan bodies require PC paints specifically. Kyosho used to have a line of PC paints that can be brushed on but not sure if those are still available. The problem with brush on paints is they don't tend to stick on the lexan that well and even then you'll have issue with coverage. If you are using it on hard bodies its fine, but I would still stick with sprays even if masking is a PITA. The results will be much better for your body.
  5. I went through a phase of hoarding what I thought I wanted NIB and preserving. At one point I purchased almost every late 80's and early 90's F1 livery and as much TA01/02 NIB as possible. I found I had zero connection to any of them and eventually got bored of becoming a warehouse for NIB kits. I sold off the entire collection and reflected that I'm only interested in kits that I'm interested in building. I love technically advanced kits with exotic materials so I'm mostly drawn to any TRF kit available and why I got bored of pan car F1 kits or plastic TA01/02 kits. My current selection of R/C cars is more a reflection of what I would want to build but never got a chance of owning/building as a teenager. I had a decent collection of HPI Racing cars that I have built and then sold again due to the fact I didn't really care for owning those cars and I was building capital for a Tamiya collection which is my favourite brand. My most current Tamiya collection is more or less the same philosophy of building first even if its the last NIB on the planet and I would carefully consider if the car is really what I want to build and add to my collection. If I add too deep into the collection I start feeling disconnected again, so I try not to add for the sake of adding. My strong internal debate now is if I want to expand into offroad and in what direction. I never had any connection to buggies but have recently found them fascinating. One itch I have not scratched is the Tamiya Monster Truck bug but again it feels out of place from my on-road, race vehicle only collection at the moment.
  6. interesting listing. not really comparing apples to apples but I think some recent masami 4wd buggies that changed hands went for less than this and with far more unique and exotic prototype components. I guess if you're a TRF415 fan, have everything else, and a completist then you'd want to negotiate for this. personally if I had to have something from the TRF415 family I would go for a NIB TRF415MS with the pro module rear suspension set. agreed on the TRF414 family of course as that's what I've been passionate about for over a decade and a half; so call me bias. who knows though, we've all had our moments of spending ridiculous money on the ask price to get a car. maybe someone would want this. but based on the insights that qatmix was nice enough to provide, this car just doesn't seem to have much that differentiate itself from its production counter parts. also since the TRF415 was based off the Tech Racing MY02, I'm curious how much prototyping was needed to adopt the MY02 designs to Tamiya production.
  7. The aluminum outdrives are unique to the 414/414X cars. Design was updated for 414M release and later 414M2 cars replaced aluminum with plastic for material. Suspension arms are optional tuning component that came with the 414 car. It is a softer material for low traction conditions.
  8. +1 on what lupogti mentioned. they have something for everyone but they do it in a way that is somehow very high quality that makes them attractive. it doesn't matter if you're buying a lower spec TA06 that is plastic fantastic or if you bought a high end MS model, you still get that quality fit and finish that makes their models an absolute joy to build. and you can tune it to whatever spec in between because Tamiya provides a ton of tuning options in house. I've owned HPI, AE, Kyosho, etc and I still purchase items vintage and non-vintage from various brands. but there is a specialness that comes with opening up something shiny and new from Tamiya, whether its a full car kit or something as small as aluminum screws. the closest OMG feeling from opening non-Tamiya product is probably Kyosho. always so happy when the mailman delivers my parts to contribute to my K-cars.
  9. +1 on all the above. Nothing but good things to say about Tony and great to talk to as well.
  10. as with anything there are pros and cons to both. ABS can be more tedious with sanding and prepping but mistakes are forgivable as you can always sand and redo. If you have experience building any sort of plastic model its basically the same idea but on a larger scale. Lexan is a lot less forgiving if your prep work isn't perfect with the masking and you get paint bleed. I know they make products to clean up the bleeds but in my opinion the results are hazy on the clear lexan and you really should get it right the first time around. you mention that you have zero experience with sray cans. I would recommend you practice on a piece of scrap to get used to it. shake the can extremely well and if you can warm it up a bit to get the paint flowing all the better. start from beyond the piece you are painting and end beyond the piece as well (helps avoid paint sputter). lay down in light even layers. this is a general method for spraying. whatever material you're painting on will always come out nicer with spray, either via can or airbrush.
  11. Hi Paul, The part number you are looking for is 49273 for the 414M SSG lower chassis and 49272 for the SSG top deck. The 414M and TA04 platform shared drivetrain and suspension components so stuff like diffs, belts, control arms, etc; chassis components are not interchangeable so bulkheads, shock towers, and the chassis decks are not compatible. ~Chuck
  12. full cockpit with red would not be a problem. all you would have to do is lay down the red first with the white areas masked, then re-mask the interior that you don't want white paint to hit, spray the previously masked area in white and you should have the result and paint scheme you were looking for. only thing to be careful with is masking off areas previously painting because you can accidentally lift the paint off if your masking tape is too strong. also the areas where the white bled are deeper channels in the body; its very difficult to get the tape to conform to those types of curvatures. personally I've went as far as using electrical tape because it tends to be very rubbery and sticky and conforms well to tight areas without bubbling. but electrical tape tends to be very thick so you have to trim before use.
  13. may I ask what color you are painting the rest of the car? it looks like you are trying to do the WRC scheme of red/white which means you should have laid down the red first before the white. the way you started this body it is highly possible that the red will show through under your white coat. rule of thumb for polycarb bodies is the opposite of painting hard bodies; you would want to go dark to light instead of light to dark.
  14. looks like a long and fun rebuild process. I guess the first thing to decide on is what to do with the engine; are you planning on rebuilding it or replacing it completely? Back in the day it was fairly easy to get new conrod & piston and sleeve set but I'm not sure how easy it is to obtain engine parts. Also you'll have to check the front bearings as well for wear and also leakage; you can replace these but you'll need to pull everything off and heat the block for the bearings to fall out. replacing the engine would be my suggestion but I can understand if you want to keep things original. looking forward to your restore.
  15. A lot of good points already made in regards to Nitro vs Electric comparison. In absolute terms of performance and speed relative to price I think an electric setup has surpassed nitro. Nitro requires a much higher learning curve in regards to maintenance and tuning. But if you are adept and know what to do, I feel it is much more rewarding when yanking on a fist full of throttle and you hear that 2 stroke engine scream vs hearing the whirring of an electric motor. Also depends on what you're doing with it. if all your friends are running electric 1/10 buggies you wouldn't have much fun buying a 1/8 nitro buggy and vice versa. if you're backyard bashing then whichever is your cup of tea. go to your LHS if you are lucky to have one in the area and take a look at some cars. see which one peaks your interest the most. the first car I saw that made me get into this hobby was a Kyosho GP10 and I ended up with an HPI RS4 Pro 2; both are 1/10 touring cars but I took the electric route.
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