Marco-1975

I have one of these, they are sold by Conrad. Just search for the carbon fighter Evo, which is the follow-up model. Technically the same, just a slightly different body shell. I have a spare parts list and a exploded view manual for that, found them on the internet. They are too big to include here. Marco

Are you sure it is Frearson? Tamiya normally uses JIS-standard screws which differ from standard Philips screws. JIS screwdrivers should be available through an automotive tools shop, at least thats where I got them from as they are used on Japanese 1:1 cars.

Check for the Hobbyking receivers compatible with the HK-GT2, Turnigy GTX3, or the chinese sites (aliexpress, banggood etc) for FlySky receivers for the FS-GT3b/c. They all should work as they use the same hardware platform as far as I know. HK: https://hobbyking.com/nl_nl/hobbykingr-tm-gt-2-2-4ghz-receiver-3ch.html Also compatible are the Reely/Modelcraft GT2 rx’s (sold by Conrad). These are the same as the HK, only different color stickers. Don’t know if you can get these down under... AFHDS-protocol is the key-word. All will cost around $6-7 US

Hobbyking use rebadged Flysky equipment under their own HK brand or Turnigy brand. Make sure you check and compare the used protocols AFHDS vs. AFHDS-2. These are not compatible! so no, it’s not better or worse. It’s the same when quality is compared. I use a Turnigy GTX3 and my son has a GT2, which both use the same protocol and RX-types are interchangeable. I think the Turnigy feels a little more thorough. Even Carson and Absima use the same hardware platform for some of their equipment. For bashing they are highly recommendable, great range, no glitching as far as my experience goes. And the GT3B/C and GTX3 can be flashed to 8-channel transmitters. Just search the internet for a howto. Besides the extra channels, it gives you other great options like subtrims and more model memory to name a few.

Hobby King servo tape, transparant with red cover foil. About 1-2 mm thick and sticks like crazy. At least, that's what I used for my last few builds. And not too expensive.

Are you looking for a wheel or stick controller? If you are looking for a wheel controller, an option would be a Flysky gt3b/gt3c or one of their clones and do the firmware mod. Then you can have a 6-channel (or even 8 max) controller with throttle and steering like a normal controller and the others channels can be freely assigned to the buttons/switches on the controller. More info about this is available on the internet.

I started with a Revell 1/8 th scale go-kart, must have been around '83 or '84 I think. Got it as a present from my parents as we did not go on a holiday that summer. Few years later they got me my first Tamiya for my birthday: the iconic Wild Willy M38. Not stopped by any knowledge about maintenance or anything, I almost drove it to pieces. Then the period came where there were so much distractions from RC and it got stored. A few years ago I re-entered the hobby as my son got interested. Since then, the collection has grown with a Reely RTR 1/10th buggy, a TT01R type E with two bodies, a Lunchbox (my son's) and a micro crawler from HK which I am currently modding to take a RC4WD 1/18 Landrover body. And the vintage cars: they will be kept as runners because that's what they were made for, though only mildly as spare parts are scarce. Both cars now have a new 2.4GHz radio system, ESC and lipo batteries. The plan is to redo the WW, already got a repro decall set. Still on my wish list is a rally car, either a modified touring car chassis (like a TT01 or TT02) or a typical rally chassis (e.g. XV01). Now I have to convince my wife I "need" them. But it will be a Tamiya, as other brands are not really my kind of thing, although I do like the RC4WD Gelande.

My son wanted a Lunchbox for his 7th birthday. The monster truck was quite appealing to him (and most kids I guess). He wanted a custom paint job (flat black with flames on the front) and I used nearly no decalls, so I can repaint/retouch as necessary. Until nowbhe is pretty pleased with it, and he will be 9 in july. Hop ups like oil shocks, better motor, different wheels are available. Build was easy, but I did most of the building then. And you can always mod the body. We attached a 1/10th scale wing in the rear and some Ken Block livery stickers I had left over, like a shull and a big USA flag. Only hop up part I would recommend from the beginning is a better servo saver, as the plastic one gets broken quite easily with those big wheels. Just took a small touch to a brick wall to destroy it. Good luck with your choice. And otherwise, buy two: one for you and one for your kid so you can swap...

Hobby King servo tape. It's transparant with red foil on it. Great stickyness, Even sticks to your scissors when cutting it.

I have a Turnigy GTX3 from HK, and I did the firmware mod as available for the FS GT3B/C. If you have some soldering skills it is not that hard. You just need to get a programming device. (Info can be found on the internet) Even if you are not going to use the extra channels, it gives you lots of extra capabilities like proportional 3rd channel, sub-trims, more than 10 model memories, adjustable battery low alarm etc. Quality-wise it might be less than the A-brand suppliers, but hey: where else will you find a Tx with these capabilities for such a low price. And if it breaks, just get a new one as they are dead cheap. Other mod I did was a change in the battery wiring and compartment to take a 3S lipo. But I kept the battery tray so I can also use AA batteries instead. Just need to remove the brace in the tray, so a 3S Tx lipo drops in. And as said before: the Rx's are extremely cheap and range is beyond average. They even come with a programmable fail-safe mode! Just be sure to get the right type, as there are different protocols and Rx type names are quite similar. I think the Absima CR3P is based on the same internal hardware too, it uses the AFHDS protocol and the symbols on the the screen are much alike. Just cannot confirm it, maybe someone else on the forum?

I would get a tt-01R type E. This is the updated E-version with a lot of hopups standard in the box like ball bearings, lightly tuned motor, oil shocks, adjustable turnbuckles, several diffrent angle rear toe-in blocks etc. Not included, compared to a standard tt-01 is an ESC.

You should use shims between the outer bearing and the pin which holds your hex to remove the wobble. The thickness of the hex can be varied to create different offsets. As an example: I used a 6 or 7 mm hex with 3mm offset rims to fill out the wheelwels of my tt01 with a 200mm wide Ford GT body. It looks way off with a standard hex and non-offset wheels. Had to shim about .3 to .4mm on each axle to get the axle stable.

Are you trying to reuse the old solder? Use a desolder pump to suck out the old solder, directly after heating it and use new solder to attach the wires. Probably that should do the trick, if your soldering iron has enough power.

I'm 41 too. Got back into the hobby when my sister asked my advice on a RC car for my nephews birthday. Since I owned a Wild Willy M38 back in the 80's, I was the "subject matter expert" for this Next step was to buy a RTR buggy "for my son" so he and his cousin could play together. Uhu, brushless 2-cell LiPo car for a 6-year old, sure... At least my wife thought it was okay, she thought it was just a toy Then started to update my cars from back in the days to current 2.4GHz with Lipo. First my Revell go-kart, then my WW M38. After that, my son wanted an RC of his own, so he got a Lunchbox for his birthday. After that, I wanted to discover on-road racing so I got myself a TT-01R type E for my birthday with a HPI Ford GT body. And a Rocksta micro crawler which is now under way to get a RC4WD 1/18 landrover body. (My 6-year old daughter loves this thing). I'm really glad that both my son and daughter like "playing" with RC, as it's an opportunity to drag them away from TV/Xbox/tablet computer and get them to play outdoors. Next step will be to convice my wife I am in desperate need of a Honda city turbo (which is also still a childhood dream). And an XV-01, and a 1/10 scale crawler, and..., and ...

Good choice, you will not be disappointed. Until it arrives: check out youtube, there are several comparison movies between Rocksta and other micro crawlers. Only negative issue are the shocks, they are no real piston like types, but the central shaft slides up and down. But I think these can be replaced if necessary. For now, they work for me. The part protruding at the top doesn't touch anything in my Landy shell.