Mad Ax 9313 Posted June 30, 2015 Is it as simple as changing the wheels, or are there other differences? I'm booked into a wheelie race next month but I only have a Honda City Turbo. It's being held at a buggy track and I'm worried that the poor Honda will be too low and road-focused to handle the jumps and astroturf. I'll probably work out my own custom body arrangement, but will I have to change anything besides the wheels to make it drive, and if so, will all necessary parts (besides wheels and tyres) be in the standard WR02-C kit? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IBIFTKH 1369 Posted June 30, 2015 If you want to use the Wild Willy style front wheels you'll need to change the steering knuckles and steering arms, which aren't included in the WR-02C kit. The rear hexes are also different but you might get away with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterbok 1282 Posted June 30, 2015 You will need an extra pair of10mm hex wheel hubs for the front which are not in the kit, (wheeler front axle is the same rear axle as from the other WR02models, wheeler rear axles are longer) and F&R wheels with hex mount, wheeler body will be a problem I would advice to get a Jimny shell. try ebay there are several who offer an alloy set of 4 or get the Tamiya hopup set. ps I might still have the plastic hexes from my wheeler build somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted June 30, 2015 Look at the manual, and the "leftover" parts from your Wheeler kit, and it will be pretty obvious what you need. I think the only parts that are missing are the front axles, which are the Stadium Blitzer style (bearings in the wheels) and some hardware. You should already have all the plastic parts you need. You also need to turn the front suspension arms around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted June 30, 2015 Thanks for the advices. I haven't built my Wheeler yet, it's still NIB in my garage. I can't work out from the above if the Wheeler has bearings on the front wheels and the WW2 has hexes on the front wheels, or the other way round? I'm sure I've got some sets of WW2 wheels from another project that never happened and they are hexes both ends - but that might be because I bought two sets of rears. I'm sure I've got a bunch of 10mm hexes from an M04 and I've got some TL01 hubs and axles somewhere. Maybe some longer WT01 axles too. Maybe I'd best get building to work out exactly what I need Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterbok 1282 Posted June 30, 2015 wheeler has bearings up in the front steering knuckle not in the wheels (like an Mchassis or TL setup), so you only will need a pair of 10mm thick hexes for the front and you are all set. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted June 30, 2015 If you have 4 hex (rear) wheels already, then just flip the front arms around to shorten the wheelbase, pop some hexes on the front axles, and you're all set. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted July 1, 2015 Sweet, thanks guys I've spent an absolute fortune on RC stuff over the past few months and I promised I'd stop spending, now I'm tempted to bag a Jimny body off ebay too. It's that or try to hack something together real quick out of a battered of Blackfoot shell and some styrene sheet. Hmm, what's the wheelbase of a Pumpkin vs a Wheeler? I've got a lexan pumpkin shell all painted and ready to go on something... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterbok 1282 Posted July 1, 2015 Pumkin has 207mm, standard WR02 172mm, WR02c 185mm (flipped front arms). Go for the modified Blackfoot that way you can build the wheeler chassis as per manual. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted July 9, 2015 OK so I got my WR02-C built up over the last couple of evenings and yesterday lunchtime I hacked up a battered old Mini shell to fit. I have to say it looks pretty neat with WW2 wheels, although the wheel arches are properly daft. I noticed after the build that the gearbox is really stiff - at first I thought it was locked solid but it will move with a bit of force. I test-ran it this morning but only very briefly, as every time I came off the throttle the rear wheels locked up. Not sure if this is normal for one of these so I'll pop the gearbox out at the weekend and check for problems - it's possible I reassembled it wrong when I fitted bearings all round... I'll grab some pics later if I have time - I'm hoping to go out for a play at lunchtime Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IBIFTKH 1369 Posted July 9, 2015 The gearbox shouldn't be stiff, these usually run quite freely. The two mistakes I've made are fitting the motor incorrectly (using the 18t holes with a 20t pinion) or using too-long screws to attach the motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted July 9, 2015 The two mistakes I've made are fitting the motor incorrectly (using the 18t holes with a 20t pinion) Hmm, I wonder if I did that..? I'd have thought it wouldn't go in at all - but that's a real obvious thing to check. I'll give it a look at lunchtime, I have my screwdrivers and the chassis with me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted July 10, 2015 This is a really interesting thread. Over on the Wheeler re-re thread people have been complaining that the front wheels can rub on the arches. Now I realise that Tamiya just reversed the front arms to lengthen the wheelbase it makes sense that it was not 100% designed for the Wheeler body so I can see why there is an un-Tamiya-like level of fudge. Still want one though! Quick question re the Wheeler wheels. Above there are mentions of 10mm hexes and I also know the Wheeler comes with some sort of adaptor. Could anybody take some photos of the wheels for me, particularly the back of them showing the fronts and rears with and without adaptors? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted July 10, 2015 I'll see if I can grab the time to take photos this weekend. Don't have the stock wheels with me and I'm not sure what the original setup was like - I guess a bearing hub that screwed in from the back? Basically (if I can describe) you get black plastic adaptor that screws into the rear of the wheel with 5 little screws. That adaptor has two slots in for the drive pin. that's pretty much it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted July 10, 2015 I'll see if I can grab the time to take photos this weekend. Don't have the stock wheels with me and I'm not sure what the original setup was like - I guess a bearing hub that screwed in from the back? Basically (if I can describe) you get black plastic adaptor that screws into the rear of the wheel with 5 little screws. That adaptor has two slots in for the drive pin. that's pretty much it i think I can imagine it! What about the front? Is it just an 1150 bearing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterbok 1282 Posted July 10, 2015 i think I can imagine it! What about the front? Is it just an 1150 bearing? Front has the adapter, rear has hex but needs a longer axle than the standard Wr02 (+6mm?) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
