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Nobbi1977

WT-01 Mud Blaster II

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I was ordering a few bits from Tamico and this was on for 100 euro and since I was paying postage any way I thought it would be rude not to get it.

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A random ebay search threw up a couple of possible basher bodies for less than a tenner for the pair.

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Volvo S80

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911 GT1 (200mm so might be a bit wide)

First thing to do is strip the pre-built gearbox and take all the plastic bearings out

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I did not strip the diff, looking back I wonder if I should have.

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Torque Tuned in for fun

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Building arms

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Fitted

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Drive shafts, impressed they were metal and not plastic

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Rear done

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Front "fake" motor

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Building steering

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Shocks built (they are truly shocking but I need something to keep it up until the nice ones turn up in the post)

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Servo part built. No radio gear yet so cannot set it

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Chassis parts

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Servo fitted

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The kit came with an 04 or something ESC but I had a brushless one so thought it would be future proof

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I cannot fit the front properly until I set the servo. I cannot set the servo until i get radio gear.

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So I fitted the wheels anyway to see what it looks like. I LIKE :)

Any ideas, tips or clues going forward?

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Looks great so far!

Other than the shocks and shock towers, which I take it you already have in hand, there isn't really anything else you need to do in order to make this a fun and reliable runner. My WT01 runs a 21t motor, steel pinion, full rubber sealed bearings, GPM shock towers and 95mm shocks, but is otherwise stock, and it runs great!

However there are plenty of things you can do to it if you want to. The most popular mods are 4WD and 4WS, both really easy to do thanks to the symmetrical chassis. And then there are loads of options when it comes to power. The dogbones, although metal, can twist under extreme conditions, but other than that, the drivetrain is virtually indestructable once you have fitted a steel pinion, so you can go wild with the power and not worry about the gears. Or you could go the other way, fit low-revving high-torque crawler motors, lock the diffs, and make it into an extreme off-roader.

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XV has summed it up well . The sky really is the limit in terms of what can be done with this chassis . To ensure you will never twist a dogbone i highly recommend these replacement universal drive shafts . Far stronger than stock Tamiya parts . I have had them fitted to my 4x4x4 wild dagger for around 2 years now and despite lots of abuse they are still going strong .

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Tamiya-DF-03-Universal-Shaft-Strong-Type-Tobee-/350507624646?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519be1e8c6

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As I was building I was looking at the front motors on EBay. £20 plus a set of drive shafts it seems rude not to do it.

I found there was a lot of slack in the front steering. A small movement in the upright pivots and movement in the axle add up to a lot when moved by hand. Is it possible to shim the axle to take the play out?

I guess the best thing is to go and beat the badword out of it for a while and see what happens :-)

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The WR01/WT01 is not a precision race chassis, and as such it has a fair bit of slop in most of its components. I might be wrong, but I think this is one of the things that makes it so tough - it has the flexibility to absorb impacts and keep on going rather than cracking under the strain as a stiffer, less sloppy rig might do.

When you get it running, you'll probably find (as I did) that the slop doesn't really affect it when it is underway. My 2WD WT01 tracks straight and true with no anti-slop mods. On my 4X4X4 WR01, the only anti-slop mods I found necessary were stiffer servo savers and broader washers on the servo posts to stop them moving around under load. (Many people just fit alloy posts.)

I think you have the right idea really. Get it running with the essential mods, then go out and enjoy driving the thing. Chances are nothing will break, and if it does, you'll know what to upgrade next.

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Have fun with it :)

Somebody on here bought the Blackfoot III version and shortened the chassis to match the wheelbase of the shell - it looks stunning and is probably more fun to drive too. I seriously intend to copy that work sometime next year :)

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Mine is even more simple than XV's, but probably the most fun car in my stable.

It runs a 10.5T brushless, ball bearings and CVA's. That's it!

Don't be tempted to lock the rear diff; whilst it may be less likely to get stuck but it becomes very unstable at speed!

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Mine is even more simple than XV's, but probably the most fun car in my stable.

It runs a 10.5T brushless, ball bearings and CVA's. That's it!

Don't be tempted to lock the rear diff; whilst it may be less likely to get stuck but it becomes very unstable at speed!

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Love that paint job

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Posted Image

Out-laws here this weekend so not chance of getting these fitted :-(

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I like the black shock towers! Where did you get them? I can only ever seem to find the silver and blue ones in stock.

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Fusion, you have me nervous I have ordered the wrong bits now

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Nope, those are the right bits. Just unusual to see them in black, that's all. I wonder if they have any more? I'll have to check...

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Posted Image

Posted Image

Broke my own golden rule and fitted the front one in the living room to be sure.

Need another pack of longer screws now to mount the rear lowers, I just used the last lot up fitting balls the the CVAs on the DT-01

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Work space for the morning

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Another one of these to fit

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Almost done

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Small issue - the shocks are hitting the tower plates

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Not sure what to do, others have reported using this same set up so not sure why mine do not fit.

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Bit more clearance if I loosen the bottom a bit. Need some spacing out

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Quick YouTube to see how to set up the radio gear

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Wires tidied up a bit

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Trimmed the bottom off the body for a quick fit. Not using this body yet but it's nice to see it on

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Sticking a Volvo touring car body on. It will look out of place but that is sort of the point

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This seemed like a good idea but it was not great to use

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Needs jacking up higher but not as high as the BRAT body, that sits a bit high for my liking.

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Had a quick crawl around the kitchen. Need to adjust the steering arms but apart from that it is ready to rock

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I see you have your shocks attached to the inner holes on the lower arms. Perhaps try the outer holes instead? That is how I have mine mounted, and they fit fine without clearance issues (just).

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I see you have your shocks attached to the inner holes on the lower arms. Perhaps try the outer holes instead? That is how I have mine mounted, and they fit fine without clearance issues (just).

I will give it a go tomorrow, thanks.

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I tried moving the shocks to the outer holes with no luck. Someone has changed specs slightly and now the dampers clash with the tower. I have a solution, not a great one but it will do for now.

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I'm not sure but I think some real car performance shocks are mounted like this (in the upside down position). With the weight lower down its meant to help with handling etc. They might be better like that.

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I'm not sure but I think some real car performance shocks are mounted like this (in the upside down position). With the weight lower down its meant to help with handling etc. They might be better like that.

I would give that go - flip the shocks before trying anything else . If not you could always file the mounts slightly for clearance . Iwould also consider a small spacer and longer screws to move the mounts away from the lower arm .

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I would give that go - flip the shocks before trying anything else . If not you could always file the mounts slightly for clearance . Iwould also consider  a small spacer  and longer screws to move the mounts away from the lower arm . 

I thought about spacers but the arms are so soft I think the screws would work out. I could drill through and bolt them though.

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I thought about spacers but the arms are so soft I think the screws would work out. I could drill through and bolt them though.

that sounds like a decent plan .

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Mmmm interesting, adjustable ride height. Cool

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now thats ingenious - fully adjustable top mounts . Great idea

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