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Fourth Protocol

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About Fourth Protocol

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  1. Spent the last four months scratch-building a Ford Bronco Concept. Today I gave the truck a Big Oly wing, put my Tamiya Mountain Rider 2.2s into Gmade beadlocks and tried them on. Still have quite a way to go before it's ready for paint. I also started researching my next project, which will be a Jeep Hurricane, also scratch-built, but probably based on a Tamiya WR-01 chassis or similar.
  2. Thanks for all the replies. The WT01/WR01 option seems promising, although having worked out my requirements a little more, it will depend on being able to run drive shafts individually to each hub, i.e. four individually-controllable drive shafts, one for each wheel. I'll probably have to fabricate something new entirely...
  3. Hi, I'm toying with the idea of a 1:10 scale scratch-built 4WD with independent suspension all 'round, and 4-wheel steering. The truck needs an interior so Clod and similar 4x4x4s aren't suitable. Looking around at possible chassis, CC-01 seems like the best candidate - I imagine I'd get two and use the front of each to make a new whole. Has something like this been done? Any other approaches I'm missing? Note that independent suspension, 4WD, and 4WS are a must, so SCX 10 is out, but a GCM chassis might not be. Steering preferably using two servos so that I can do 0° turns as well as crab-crawl.
  4. Do Bruiser tires fit all 12mm hex beadlock wheels, for example anything from RC4WD? I want to use them on a scratch-build based on an Ascender chassis, so need a 2.2 wheel with hex connectors to make the Bruiser tires work.
  5. I've found the Bruiser tyres to be REALLY good in wet mud. Better than any other tyre I've used (mud thrasher, rock crusher, super swampers from Vaterra and from RC4WD). They're also pretty good on beach sand. But little else.
  6. Thanks man, didn't know about the Bruiseruptor axles. Yes, keeping the option for an open diff is appealing (the Hilux shunts like a bat out of badword in 2WD high, which is great fun). And the stronger RC4WD axle is discontinued :-(
  7. So I was going through photos and had a look at the ones I took on the Southbank. Those wide-track rear wheels make me cringe :-( They just stick out too much. Catch the wrong angles, like in these pics, and it's so many types of wrong. Long story short I'm taking the plunge and narrowing the back axles as described in the YSS Crawlers blog post further up this thread. Step one is complete - just ordered a replacement rear axle, and Metal Parts Bag A. I want a contingency in case the cutting or drilling go south. The bigger problem is that I don't have the tools to drill the holes into the shafts, or cut the axles, collars and hubs. Approach A is to man up and learn, and then use the tools at London Hackspace (http://london.hackspace.org). Approach B is to find someone that can do it for me. I'll pursue approach B and if I haven't found anyone by the time the replacement parts arrive, I'll go with A.
  8. I've been asked, so I put together a complete inventory of the parts I used to make this truck at https://www.wittenburg.co.uk/entry.aspx?id=0f6ba03f-be9d-4969-ae9e-c377c421675c (it's right at the bottom of the page). Cost totalled out at ~ GB £1,300 or so.
  9. I agree with DoJo Dave. I have a Mountain Rider I completed about a month ago, and even though price was no consideration for me, I only paid GB £30 for the ESC in mine. Which is an Axial AE-5 waterproof ESC. I went with the AE-5 because a. it's waterproof, b. it has a drag brake which is AMAZING and c. because it works with both 2s and 3s LiPos without needing a BEC. Whilst I don't have a BEC, I am getting one because I need more power on my waterproof Savox servos, which an ESC BEC won't deliver. Think about how you're going to use the truck once it's done. If you're planning any crawling, get something with a decent drag brake. Think about waterproofing. And while you get what you pay for, know that you don't need to spend a fortune to get something decent.
  10. Just found this - http://www.ys-solutions.co.jp/ysscrawlers/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=2787&language=en Seems to offer a relatively robust solution to narrowing the back. I'd extend the thread on the axle rather than use spacers though. Going to look into the machining.
  11. The thread goes all the way down from the hex-shaped part to the bottom of the first cylinder-shaped part beneath the hex shape. Not sure I'm explaining that well. Either way, if the wheel fits around the adapter after it's ground down, there will definitely still be enough thread left for a screw. That said, the RC4WD axles will poke through that hole, and the wheel would be secured to the axle with a nut, rather than a screw. I'll play with it next week (going to the Goodwood Festival of Speed this weekend).
  12. Thanks for those photos. I actually have a similar set of hex adapters, but without that cone part so I think slightly less offset. I bought them because I read somewhere that the RC4WD hex conversion kit is not entirely reliable. Should maybe try them on the front (easier to change the front, too). Not a fan of wide tires on the Hilux though - they make it look like a monster truck, but without enough lift I think the truck starts to look a little comical. Which is why I went with 1.55. Just had a look at my hex adapters - The thread seems to go all the way down that cylinder with the hex on it. Might have a go at grinding the cylinder down into a hex shape, and then narrowing the adapter... Will have to fit a wheel to it and see what's possible.
  13. The tyres are 1.55 Interco IROKs from RC4WD (http://store.rc4wd.com/Interco-IROK-155-Scale_tires_p_1421.html), and the wheels, also from RC4WD, are Stamped Steel 1.55 white beadlocks (http://store.rc4wd.com/Stamped-Steel-155-Stock-White-Beadlock-Wheel-_p_36.html).
  14. My Hilux is done. It's mostly stock, except for the 12mm Hex Conversion from RC4WD, the wheels and tyres, stickers, which I made myself, and the front bumper, for which I used a high lift jack on the stock bumper mounts, which are dyed black. Also added lights and a TLU-01 and TLU-02. Took the TLU-02 back out because the indicators started annoying me really badly. I can't seem to copy/paste into this editor, so rather than re-type a wall of text and images, you can read more about the build at https://www.wittenburg.co.uk/entry.aspx?id=51d49de6-e0f3-4054-acf6-325f668040b5 The thing I'm hoping to still do to it are a custom back bumper - something inoffensive but cool, and to either widen the front track, or narrow the rear. While I haven't found much useful information online, it seems widening the front is more realistic, because the rear is constrained by the chassis width. Has anyone done this to a 2012 Bruiser or the 2014 Mountain Rider?
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