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Corona Powered

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About Corona Powered

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  • Birthday 07/31/1973

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  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Super Fan of the Tamiya SRBs and the Subaru Brat. Also specialize in the RPS Yokomo SE, and the Kyosho Optima Mid and Double Dare. And a Corona on the side!

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  1. Great work on that steering setup! Looks incredible. Any chance you could post a template?
  2. Hello. Just wondering if there is a source any more for Brat Alloy wheels/covers. I purchased a set of Rad's original "deep offset" F150/early Brat style when he was making them. I didn't jump on the newer shallow offset front style soon enough (the kind that fit the later Brats and the reissue), and then he stopped production. I noticed there was someone on the 'bay selling Brat alloy wheels, but those are no longer listed (pargu2000 I believe). Anyone else producing these? I know there are a few options out there for Rough Rider/Sand Scorchers. Shoulda stocked up while Rad was making them
  3. Wow. That is awesome news about the Tamiya Polycarbonate body cleaner. I'll have to get some. Off to the hobby shop... Is it similar to Parma Fashine?
  4. Well, I thought I was on to something promising. The Krud Kutter Graffit Remover: I submerged a 959 shell in it for a week. Now, I purchased this shell used, so I can't say for sure what paint was used on it. The body was painted red and the windows were painted black. The solution removed the black paint off the windows very quickly. The red paint came off it spots, but did not "melt" off like I was hoping. The good news is that the lexan was not harmed and did not cloud, after a week. It did remove some fresh dupli color spray paint from a different piece of polystyrene as a test - that fell right off after a couple minutes, so the product does work! I'm going to try spraying some fresh Tamiya PS over the old paint and see if that helps the process at all.
  5. Wow. Thanks for all the replies. And thanks very much to Zakspeed for the info. Yep, I have the side plates too, which have the holes drilled in them (I didn't know it was all part of the same set). I'll post some pictures of what those look like too. Zakspeed, if you wouldn't mind posting a picture of your NIP set that would be a great reference. What a great hop up! It seems like a much sturdier setup. Although, unless you glue those metal bushes onto the swing arms, I could see the plastic swing arm just rotating inside of those. But metal on metal is really a much more precise arrangement. As far as my restoration goes, it looks like I just need an original Brat chassis that doesn't have the holes for the skid plate. The one I have now is the earlier grey plastic (it's a different, milkier color than the later Brat re-re) but it still has the holes for the skid plate. Thanks for that tip B.M.T. - I didn't even know such a variation of the ORV chassis existed. I'm always learning something new at Tam Club!
  6. Thanks for the reply, B.M.T. Interesting theory about the Mud Blaster. I have a very original Mud Blaster, and it does not have this setup. Not to say it was not phased in later, but this gearbox really seemed like it came from a very early car as opposed to a later production model. Also, the fact that the plastic center gearbox molding (that sandwiches between the plates) has always been the diameter of the brass tube to me indicates that this was an early gearbox - it seems the unit was simplified to remove those parts (less parts to produce) by adding an additional flange to the metal plates (so you have to replace the aluminum side plates when it wears vs the tiny metal bushings). The plastic molding was left oversized because the metal sideplates carried the trailing arms. Anyone else have any further insight? As far as other Brat differences, I was aware of the bell crank setup. I actually prefer retrofitting this setup to many of my models, to keep equal length tie rods. It also mounts the rods at a lower/better angle that helps minimize bump steer. A pity that they evolved into the simpler direct drive servo setup. I seem to remember of thread that talked about all the differences of the early Frog ORV chassis, (vs the later re-re and other mutations), but have not been able to dig up that thread.
  7. Hello. I am currently restoring an early Brat kit (an original, not the re-re). Everyone knows that the early Brat had the "locked" (some call it positraction) rear end. However, at an earlier time I purchased a shed of a car (don't know if it was a Frog or a Brat - didn't have a body) and as I disassembled it, I noticed that the rear gearbox metal plates were quite different than ones I have seen before. Where the trailing arms enter, there is a wider hole that houses a large piece of brass tubing and some steel collars. I will attach a picture. My question is: was this only on very early Frog or Brat kits? Was it from a different kit, like the Lancia? I don't see reference to this design in any of the directions posted here on Tamiya club (or in my tatty old manuals). Anyone have any insight on this? I will post a picture. Thanks.
  8. Wow Trexx75. That paint killer DOES look like magic in a bottle! It claims to remove all kinds of lexan paint without harming the plastic. Please keep us informed how it works when you get it and try it. I'm guessing it's yet another solution that us Yanks won't have access to.
  9. Wandy - That is interesting to hear about the Nitro fuel. I have two theories on why that may have happened. 1. The % Nitro in the fuel you used may have been too high. From what I read, the nitro is the ingredient that is doing the dirty work. Other members had said the more the better, but perhaps it is better to stick in the 15% range? 2. Perhaps Nitro fuel is only good for brushing/wiping and NOT submerging in a bath? It seems like the members who had luck with this method brushed it on and wiped it off. Just trying to get to the bottom of this tangled web. This particular thread was very informative. Lots of folks advocated the Nitro Fuel, and one even used it on an Optima, so go figure... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...0paint&st=0
  10. Thanks for your reply Mouton. My purpose for creating this thread was to create a bit of an END ALL discussion on this topic since opinions vary widely. Ideally, this would be a Wiki entry that could be updated by the more experienced members. As it sits now, to get any kind of real answer you have to sift through many different threads, with all different kinds of titles. I am merely collecting info and passing along my findings. The 959 shell is a good guinea pig because it is expensive and also probably the most fragile lexan shell out there. My hope is that I can post before and after pictures of my 959 shell (I have three to experiment on) and let readers be the judge on what worked. Yes, it appears that brake fluid is a no-no for lexan, as far as submerging in a bath. Have people used it on lexan before with favorable results? This thread has one poster citing his positive experience with it (for a 959 shell no less): http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...hl=remove+paint I think one aspect of this discussion that is making everything a little vague is the difference between brushing/wiping techniques and submerging in a bath. Some chemicals will only attack polycarbonate (fog, dissolve or cause brittleness) for extended periods of exposure. Some attack instantly. I intend to specify that difference in my findings. For something as fragile as a 959 shell, a submerged bath method would be ideal because you would not have to handle the shell or rub as much (minimizing the chance of cracking or crinkling).
  11. I have purchased several box art Scorcher bumpers from J-man. They are the best. First class all the way. You will not be disappointed.
  12. Hello - I have (as I am sure many of you do also) a shelf full of old polycarbonate shells with paint flaking off that could be "saved" if there was some miracle way to strip the paint off. After searching many threads here on Tamiya Club, this is all the information I have been able to collect on this subject: 1. De-Solv-It Graffiti Remover: This is the best method I have read about. Tamiya Club member "pandafred" had excellent results using it. He mentioned that he left the product on for 10-15 mins and the paint came off. The results speak for themselves in his showroom: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9&sid=29543 I don't know if he tried letting it soak for any long period of time. Unfortunately, I live in the United States and this product is not available over here. I tried contacting Orange-Sol directly (they market De-Solv-It products) and the product is actually produced by Mykal Industries, a UK based company. I haven't gotten a reply from them yet on US distribution (but I doubt it), so I'm desperately trying to find a way to get this stuff over to this side of the pond! 2. Brake Fluid: Not Recommended. Brake fluid is safe for hard plastic polystyrene bodies. The consensus is that brake fluid attacks lexan, causing it to fog or become brittle. 3. Nitro Fuel: Some members have recommended using nitro fuel. Apparently it is the nitromethane that actually removes the paint - look for a higher nitro content and a low oil content. I will experiment with this method myself once the weather warms up. There are hazardous fumes, and nitro is a known carcinogen. Although the consensus is that it does not attack lexan, I did read of at least one member complaining that it fogged the clear plastic. NOTE: some polycarbonate paints actually etch into the plastic, causing clouding, so it may not have been the fuel. This thread had a lot of info on using nitro fuel... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...0paint&st=0 4. Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover: I stumbled upon this product on Amazon and ordered some (should arrive in a few days). This is a water based (not solvent based), non-abrasive biodegradable cleaner. The product claims to remove all different kinds of paint AND be safe on plastic and plexiglass. It is available in the US, so I'm hoping this stuff works. 5. Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner/caustic soda: Not Recommended. It damages polycarbonate. 6. Parma Fashine: I have read mixed results on this product. I does not appear to cause any damage, but may not be effective on Tamiya PS paints. I intend to get some from my LHS and give it a try. Any other ideas for removing paint off polycarbonate without doing permanent damage? In particular, I have a nice 959 shell (among others) w/o too much damage but with plenty of old paint on it that I am hoping to save, but these are very brittle to begin with so I really do need magic in a bottle. THANKS! NOTE: This post has been updated. It will continue to be updated as new information/results from experiments are available.
  13. Thanks for the reply. The question I am really putting out there is: Has anybody successfully extracted/replaced a rubber o-ring from the SA11 damper cylinder? In most shocks like CVA, HPI, etc. you actually install the o-ring that seals the shaft. With these, the damper cylinder seems to be a whole unit. It looks like there might be a brass washer holding the o-ring in or something and I'm not sure it can be extracted without damaging the unit. Maybe Tamiya's answer was "just replace the whole SA11 part" which at this time is not easy to find. The rubber o-rings are a dime a dozen though, so it would be a lot easier to be able to take it apart somehow - just not sure if that is even possible.
  14. Hello - I am in the process of rebuilding two Porsche 959 kits. I have researched the process here on Tamiya Club and was not able to find a difinitive answer on this particular issue. I just finished rebuilding two full sets of dampers (front and back). I used a thin grade 20wt oil, cleaned everything up, used new tubing for the reservoirs. They were perfect when finished. I came back a couple days later and the shocks were "stuck." I applied a bit of upward pressure to the shafts, rotated them a little and they went back to feeling free again. Put them aside, came back a couple days later and the same thing happened - sticky at first and then fine once I worked them loose. In my research here on the forum, I saw that other people were having similar issues - the solution being, before you take the car out, work the shocks loose first so you don't break the fragile A-arms. I'm trying to solve this in a more permanent fashion. Is there a rubber o-ring inside the SA11 damper cylinder? Is it sandwiched between two brass spacers like the SRB shocks? The damper cylinder is so tiny, and not having any spares I was reluctant to start trying to pry things apart. My guess is there is a 20+ old o-ring seal inside there that needs to be replaced. I have rebuilt quite a few of the yellow plastic CVA shocks before, and I found the old black o-rings can be quite sticky at first, until they get a film of oil on them. (even some NOS "new" old black o-rings had the same effect). The newer red colored o-rings that Tamiya includes with the newer Black CVAs don't seem to have the same sticky nature. If the SA11 damper cylinder has a standard-sized o-ring inside it, these new rings could be installed and fix the problem for good. Anyone tried to take one apart further? Thanks in advance for your help.
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