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Wobbleboxer

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About Wobbleboxer

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    Northants, UK
  1. I remember going through a few torsion bars when I had my Cheetah. If you stick with this solution (and don't convert to shocks) I'd suggest taking the tension off if you ever leave it standing for a while.
  2. You might find the seller will only send to the registered buyer's address, which might mean that you would need to get your helful postman to actually buy for you too (maybe) which could make it more tricky.
  3. Just about sums it up for me. The US are scared to ban guns regardless of the long term benefits of doing so.
  4. There was a thread on this a while back. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73733&hl= Dish soap (Fairy Liquid) and water to allow them to move about a bit, squeeze the water out and dry.
  5. Hi Brandsmithy, I recently got my first TT-01 (secondhand) which I will just be using for bashing. I stripped it down and rebuilt it pretty much from scratch with a new pinion and bearings and BigSteve helped out with one missing part. Other than that the chassis will stay as it is. I might look at shocks at some point, depending how it handles once i get a new body sorted and get the chance to run it properly. Bottom line is how much do you want to spend and do you want the bling look? If it's just for bashing, go with the advice in the posts above.
  6. No, cos they are XR311's not Cheetah's despite the (bad) descriptions. This is a Cheetah, http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251971957243&globalID=EBAY-GB I believe the originals shared the same chassis with the XR311 but the re-re XR does not.
  7. Do away with bushes and put bearings in all kits. Do away with soft cheese pinion and put steel pinions in all kits. Re-re the Cheetah... it was my first Tamiya back in the day (in fact we had 2 as my Dad had one as well) and I really loved them, for all their design flaws. As long as it came with bearings and a pinion . Proper shocks would be nice as well instead of those awful torsion bars.
  8. Thanks Dave, I'll let you know if someone in the UK comes up with something.
  9. Greg, yes it is the part A14 on an older chassis. I hear what you're saying about bling, but am trying to avoid going that route. Chris, the upper suspension cross-member is there (part A4 on the picture) and is fixed with what I assume are the screws shown, so not sure if these are too long if the stiffener isn't there. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the gear cover. If anyone else has a spare left over from a hop up I'll take it off your hands, but otherwise I'm inclined to leave it until it all explodes a horrible mess of gears and melted plastic
  10. I am in the process of rebuilding a TT-01 chassis bought from a member. It's only going to be used for bashing so not looking at massive or expensive changes. So far I have done a full strip down and rebuild of the chassis and have added a steel pinion and bearings so far. I might do the drive shafts and shocks at some point, but it works fine for now. Just need to look at a new body and paint job now. One thing I noticed when rebuilding was there was a part missing that was shown on the downloaded instructions. First of I thought maybe I just had a different version of the instructions. The part that is missing is the rear gearbox stiffener, but I'm not 100% sure what harm it's doing by not being there. Is it worth be trying to source one to replace it? Will it make any difference running without it? Why is it there in the first place? Thanks.
  11. No other takers as yet Kevin. Let me know when you have the money and we can exchange PMs.
  12. As title. Full working order. £12 posted, £10 collected, Northampton.
  13. Had this arrive yesterday... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=76620&hl=%2Btt01+%2Broller Going to to make some basic mods, pinion and bearings to start with and a new shell, but probably not much more. I don't plan to go mad but are there any must do's on a TT-01?
  14. So, just to clarify, If i wanted to take a drift spec car and use it for normal road bashing, the only things I really need to do are change the tyres to something more grippy and unlock the diff? How do you lock a diff and what's involved in unlocking it, or is a new diff an easier option? Have been looking at a road car for a while, not so much the drift side of things, so following this thread with interest. Thanks.
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