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mr crispy

Kyosho HOR NSR500 1/8 motorcycle build

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Couldn't resist starting this build anymore :)

It was Daves956 post in the Kyosho section that first got me interested. As an ex biker myself I've been intrigued by the idea of an RC motorbike but the modern, gyro stabilised stuff that virtually picks itself up doesn't hold my interest. They just don't look or behave in a realistic way IMO and scale performance is an important part of this hobby for me.

So when Dave mentioned about these older Kyosho bikes from the 90's with the moving rider that helps lean the bike over into the bend I was hooked! Watching a few YouTube clips only confirmed how good they looked and behaved. At the time (about 1 year ago) Kyosho had just finished a re-release of them so the prices weren't too bad but I'd have to import and they were still going to be pushing the top end of my budget. I'm also very much an off road RC-er so I just wasn't sure about the outlay if I didn't have anywhere to run it. I put off buying one last year and in the end decided not too.

But the idea of that moving rider just wouldn't get out of my head so every now and then id check them out over the last year. I finally decided to take the plung about 2 months ago and buy one but typically they were all out of stock and the few examples of new kits on eBay were pulling in silly money. I'd just about given up when Kyosho re-released them again this November, so I ordered one from Banzai like a shot and it arrived this week.

I got stung for £32 customs charges which hurt a bit but once the box was in my hands I just didn't care anymore :)

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The box is surprisingly big and packed full of parts.

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This is my first Kyosho kit and the plastic cowling parts and driver are nice & crisp and it seem most of the fixings and metal items are bagged together with there corresponding build sections (unlike the Axial SCX10 I built recently) so you don't have parts spilling out of many open bags early on. The one downside is the "structural" parts that appear to be moulding in that tough, slightly flexible nylon that Tamiya also use. Maybe it's the multiple re-releases but the sprues had a lot for flashing, mould lines and injector pin marks that need removing.

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Being that nylon material it's not just a simple filing job either so it becomes a bit of a pain after a while.

Part 1 deals with constructing the head stock and is pretty straight forward.

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On the left hand side you can see there's a spring and a plastic part with a wedge shaped end. That fits into and V shaped part and the spring allows a certain about of controlled play, much like a servo saver. I put a tiny smear of silicone grease on the moving parts and fitted them together with a bit of thread lock on the bolt.

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That's all the teaser I have for now :D I'll get some more built and photo'd tomorrow but I'm currently looking for a medium sized servo to fit inside the frame. Mini and micro servos are too small and their spines won't mesh with the specific shaped servo horn the bike uses. And a standard servo is just too darn big.

I'll keep you posted.

Nic

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Next step is to fit the head stock onto the left hand frame.

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And it's held in place with a self tapper.

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Now we start on the rear swing arm. Here's all the parts cleaned up and laid out.

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It's so refreshing having all the small metal parts in one bag ready for that section of the manual. I fitted them together with a very light smear of grease on the metal shafts.

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On the top there you can see the bottom end of the rear shock. It will eventually just hold a spring so there's no rear damping at all as standard, I believe upgrades are available.

The swing arm is held onto the right hand frame with a metal shaft.

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And a nylon/plastic brace holds it firm with two self tappers.

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Then it's time to bring the two frame sides together and hold them with 3 self tappers.

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I've placed a ruler infront if the frame to show it's now apx 6.5 inches long and feels pretty sturdy. There isn't a huge amount of travel on the rear swing arm but then it's only going to run on smooth road surfaces.

You can see there's quite a difference in colour between the hard plastic and nylon parts used. I'm intending to paint the frame a light silver or aluminium colour to bring all these miss matched parts together and better resemble the real thing. In a similar way I'll paint the engine and gearbox parts black and give them a gun metal effect to look like the 1/1's engine. Most of this work will end up covered by the fairings but it'll be nice to know it's all done.

Next step is to build the cage that holds the steering servo and driver articulation mechanism so I can't progress any further yet :(

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I've just ordered a Hitec HS225BB servo that fits the dimensions mentioned in the manual so once thats arrived I'll be able to continue the build. For now here's how the cage will mount onto the frame.

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It'll mostly sit under the fuel tank and provides the rear sub frame to mount the seat fairing.

So far it's coming on well. Manual is nice and easy to follow and laid out much like a Tamiya one with 1/1 scale depictions of the hardwear used in each step.

It's been enjoyable to build even with the minor niggles with the nylon parts :)

I might have to skip ahead a few steps until the servo arrives.

Nic

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STOP THIS RIGHT NOW AND GET ON WITH YOUR WINTER BUILD OFF :lol:

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STOP THIS RIGHT NOW AND GET ON WITH YOUR WINTER BUILD OFF :lol:

Waiting on parts mate... and this doesn't involve a shed load of plasticard work :D Besides, I use to watch NSR500's racing on TV, sooooo this could also be my WBO2014 :)

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Thinking about the NSR500 takes me back to the classic battles between Sheene on his Suzuki RG500 and Donan on NSR . Oh to be young again . i miss Barry - knew him quite well . One heck of a nice bloke . RIP

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Interested in your thoughts on these also. Wonder if it might be too small.

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Legend of Motorsport ! Baz was so much respected Down Under and around the world in fact. His years here as a Motorsport commentator meant that Aussies got to know and love him.

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Interested in your thoughts on these also. Wonder if it might be too small.

The whole bike? Once the forks and wheels go on it'll be a lot longer and the fairing will bulk it out quite a bit too. Don't forget it's a racing bike and they're usually smaller than a road bike. I know I was surprised just how small they were at the NEC bike show I helped out at. Got to sit on the 2005 Suzuki racing bike and I looked very much like a fat adult on a child's bike :) The teams rider (his name escapes me ATM) was a right skinny short fella, I guess they all are?

Once I've got it a bit more together I'll take some photos next to an RC car to get a better idea of the size.

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Legend of Motorsport ! Baz was so much respected Down Under and around the world in fact. His years here as a Motorsport commentator meant that Aussies got to know and love him.

I grow up with the Padgetts lads as mates . They run Honda's race bikes here in the UK . In my youth i used to go to all the race meeting's with them so i got to know a lot of the Team riders really well . Barry was always a really friendly guy with us kids . As you say a real Legend - and a real gent .

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Now now boys play nice and everyone can get what they want :)

One thing that's come out of my eBay search for a smaller servo is I also found some reasonable "continuos rotation" servos, I need one for my Aliens APC turret!

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I didn't think I'd be the only one to find these bikes fascinating :D

The HiTec mini servo arrived so I gave it a quick radio test, all passed fine.

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Tried it out in the servo cage and it was about as tight as you could get away with.

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You can see the two halves don't quite meet, they might've tightened up once screwed together but I had another idea. I rubbed the servo on a flat sheet of 240 grade glass paper on both sides to remove the high points and get a uniform flat surface on both sides.

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With that done on both sides the halves now meet up fine.

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I plugged in the radio gear and made sure the servo was centred with the trim at zero and fitted the kit servo horn part #8 which matched the Hitec spines perfectly.

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The kit includes servo foam to hold it in place but as the Hitec is a much tighter fit I used some double sided carpet tape to hold mine.

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The manual says to remove the little tab at the bottom right corner here presumably to help squarer servos to fit flush. It wasn't necessary with this Hitec servo so I left it to help strengthen the screw mount there.

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With the two halves screwed together and tape on both sides of the servo it fits perfectly and isn't going anywhere! The servo horn does just touch the outer case as it rotates so I gave that a rub with the glass paper to remove any burrs.

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Next step is building up the mechanism that will move the rider. I started with the left side parts laid out.

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And fitted to the cage with a 3mm bolt.

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The right side fits onto a shaft that connects to the servo horn and has a sprung servo saver much like the head stock.

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The shaft travels down the right side of the cage and connect the servo horn at the front to the "legs" at the rear.

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Those legs pointing up will eventually be where the riders "cheeks" are connected :)

The spring and top end are added to the rear shock and this is passed through the cage.

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Strangely according to the instructions you just leave it rattling around loose until much later on. Checking the manual I couldn't see any reason why so I fitted the top shock mount now so it wouldn't fall apart, and I could see how stiff the shock is.

I also found these nodules on the rear swing arm severely limited the movement of the arm.

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They are not shown in the manual anywhere and I chose to remove them with a sharp knife.

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The spring is very hard and has no damping at all, not sure how well it'll work.

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The servo wire should run down behind the shock mount but the Hitec servo doesn't leave enough room so I've fed mine around it as above. I'll see how it goes.

The cage is then held on with 3 self tappers. The servo cable is fed down through the frame to the area where the radio gear will be stored.

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Quick clip on how the steering and rider mechanism moves.

I held the legs together with a bit of string as the left side one flops down on its own. It's doesn't look like the steering forks need much steering throw does it? I guess the riders movement isn't just for show but has a positive effect of the weight distribution and steering.

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The steering on these bikes is meerly just a suggestion. The front forks float. It's affected slightly by the servo arm but it's more the weight in the front wheel and the momentum of the rider flipping side to side that get it to turn.

I'm happy they rere'd this bike. That means parts will still be available for a while. I've had one of these bikes almost 25 years now. I used tamtech radio gear as that was all I had available at the time. It is dismally slow. I would like to try one with a modern brushless motor and some 2.4 ghz radio gear. Plus all those HR alloy parts on eBay look tasty.

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I forgot to add. It's going to make you laugh the first time you run it. It looks so cool when you throw it in a turn and the rider shifts and hangs a knee out

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I hope so :) I've also been eyeing the upgrade parts but I'll see how it grabs me once I've run it standard for a bit first.

Had some time to push on with this today. First up was the gearbox and I was a little surprised to find all the gears including the pinion and both chain sprockets are plastic... or that nylon material. I guess it's better they wear than the chain, that is at least fully metal.

Here's the chain with the forward gears in the gear case. I put a thin smear of grease on the shafts and bushings.

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The black discs are hard plastic bushes... it's been a long time since I built a kit with these instead of bearings right from the start but that's something I plan to swap over when I strip it down to paint.

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Cover over the mains gears. You can get a fully alloy gearbox upgrade.

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You get a little suppressed motor in the kit and a choice of 3 sized pinions. They are just push fit onto the splined motor shaft.

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I went with the standard 10 tooth pinion and the kit includes a spacer tool. It's a nice tight fit to force it on.

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There's is a metal motor plate the fits into the gearbox and you have 2 small bolts with grip washers that pass through the plate and screw into the motor end just like a 540 motor. I've no idea what this kit motor is rated at.

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These bolts and some of the screws are tiny so a magnetic screw driver is well worth buying, just to aid getting the bits you want out of the packs!

I used the paper trick to get the right amount of space between the pinion and spur gear before tightening them up.

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Fitted into the frame, you have to manoeuvre the chain around the swing arm as it doesn't disconnect.

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The gearbox is screwed to the frame with two self tappers in elongated slots, this allows you to adjust the tension on the chain by sliding the whole gearbox forwards/backwards.

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Then you build up the battery tray and it's good to see an RC manufacturer putting the battery in exactly the right place for once! If this was an Axial or Vaterra bike it would probably end up strapped to the riders helmet ;) Strangely the front end incorporates a protective roller.

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At first I thought this might be to guard against grounding but it's final position it's too high for that and it'll be surrounding by the plastic fairing.

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Fitted to the frame it becomes a bit more obvious.

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I think that on full compression the front wheel could move back and make contact with the front of the battery tray, so the roller should prevent it from jamming solid and giving you a spectacular but expensive stoppie :D

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I had intended to run this on lipo but I'm wondering if it's worth picking up a 1600mah Nimh to get the extra weight? I could just add weights to a lipo I suppose.

The radiator goes on next and encloses the "engine" area on the rear thing but here's it's where the ESC and RX go.

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There's actually quite a bit more room in there than I first expected, plus it should get decent ventilation. I'm hoping to fit a TEU101 and a simple 2ch 2.4ghz FlySky system. I thought the 101 might have to lose its outer case but seeing the available room it might be fine. Can you set up a TEU101 to just run forwards and brake? I've never tried and I obviously won't need reverse here :)

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Im not too keen on that exposed pinion and spur gear but it will be covered with the fairing.

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On to the wheels! Plastic wheels with soft rubber tyres.

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Fitted they feel semi pneumatic but they don't have any vent holes or foams. I guess you don't want them deforming too much.

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The front wheel has two weights that are screwed to the wheel.

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This makes it surprisingly heavy! This is what provides the main gyroscopic effect on the bike

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You have two front brake discs that are moulded a little better with hardly any flashing.

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They push fit in with more plastic bushings and will be held in place by the front forks.

The rear wheel doesn't have any weights. It also has a single brake disc and the main sprocket gear.

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Not so much detail on this brake disc but you can get drilled alloy replacements that look absolutely gorgeous :)

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The sprocket has a splined arrangement to fit into a corresponding well in the wheel so you can't get it on the wrong side and you won't have it slipping under power.

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Interestingly there's no mention of glueing the rear tyre to the wheel... maybe it's just not needed?

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The rear is slightly larger and fatter than the front.

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The rear is held on with a threaded rod that has a smooth centre section. Two nylock nuts hold it in place.

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It's the typical PITA to hold it with paper wrapped pliers without marking the surface. I must get some rubber coated pliers one day! The instructions suggest to leave 3mm of thread after the first nylock nut but I found 2mm will centre it better on mine.

Don't forget to insert the plastic bushings & brass tube before inserting the axle through the rear wheel... I didn't... honest :)

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I loosened the gearbox and slid it fully rearward to get the chain around the rear sprocket. Then slid it forward and re tighten the screws.

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Then I opened the fairing bag and dug out the rear hugger. These parts are nicely moulded with just a few mould seams to sand down. The hugger is held on with two lugs fitting into holes and then two small self tappers.

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It's really coming together now. You get a much better idea of how big it'll be.

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It's now about 11 inches long with the front wheel roughly in place.

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Very nice build thread . Hay Stella has sprockets & alloy gear box for this :D ..

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Crispy, I'm not seeing any bearings in the gear box or wheels. No bearings and slow stock motor will be so slow it might not even have enough speed to keep it upright. Honestly I'd invest in a set of bearing asap.

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Nope, I've said I'm building this totally stock as the kit comes, then I'll see what to upgrade. It'll give me a chance to strip it right down, check for wear and tear and get it painted. Bearings are a certain on the rebuild plus a few other goodies.

Forks are up next. There's a smooth metal shaft with a brass top thats threaded at the bottom and screws into the lower fork ends. A plastic tube goes over that and the upper plastic fork tube fits over the lot, holds a spring in place and screws into the metal dark alloy cup at the bottom.

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You grease the inner shafts and the brass parts and it kind-of provides a minor friction damping effect... but not much. Depending on how tight you screw the alloy cups it stiffens the friction resistance. I'm not entirely sure if this is part of the design or just the effect the plastic parts have when over tightened. It took a bit of fettling to get them both compressing smoothly.

All together with the front brake callipers held on with two tiny self tappers.

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The instructions arnt too clear but you need to ensure you get the lower fork ends around the correct way so the smooth, flush face side will sit closest to the wheel. Brass tube put through the wheel bushings and the axle fitted with a nylock nut.

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All fitted together with a plain nut on the other side.

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The front huggers is held on with four of those tiny self tappers and keeps the forks in line.

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The trees hold the forks onto the frame much like a full sized bike with a metal shaft and plastic bushes.

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The fork tops fit into the mounts and are held tight with a self tapper in each side.

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The overall length works out at about 10.5 inches and I was right about that roller, on full compression the front wheel can just touch it.

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Next to fit is the foot pegs, they are held onto the hangers with a small self tapper and incorporate a ball connector cup.

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That fits into notches on the frame and is held with another small self tapper.

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Same thing on the other side.

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Then a plastic lower exhaust pipe/fairing mount goes on with a self tapper.

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The handle bars or clip ons also incorporate a ball cup but don't actually connect to the forks at all, they are bolted to the frame.

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Same on both sides and the overall looks is convincing.

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Next up you get to fit the seat/tank fairings. I noticed while cleaning these up that they have moulding lines that correspond with the blue/white paint scheme and should make masking a lot easier.

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The side exhaust cans are screwed to the right hand fairing with a pair of self tappers. The fuel cap fits into a slot in the tank.

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The two fairing halves are then held together with two screws and the seat pad goes on top with another couple of self tappers.

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Eventually I will glue these together for added strength and it'll help with filling and making a clean join line before painting.

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The front of the fairing has a lip that catches and holds under the frame.

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The rear end clips over that servo mount sub frame and is held in place with a self tapper each side.

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The rear exhaust tips clip into their mount.

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It has that classic "buns in the air" racing bike stance :)

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You have to cut a section of tubing to represent the exhaust pipe to connect the mount on the lower frame and the twin side cans. The manual gives you a full size diagram to follow and make things easier.

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It's a neat solution and fits nicely around the swing arm without fouling it.

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The downside is that rubber tubing won't take paint very well and I'm pretty sure a racing bike would really have welded pipe work here.

Next you move onto the rider mount that connects to the legs that comes up through the seat. The mount holds a clip and uses ball collars that are screwed on with self tappers.

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Brass tubes fit into the legs and 3mm bolts pass through them and are held onto the mount with nylock nuts.

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This allows the mount to sway from side to side.

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I assume the riders legs will fit onto those ball collars and should allow a lot of smooth movement.

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It's looking good propped up against the box, I'd better put that paddock stand together ASAP :D

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