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gordb

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About gordb

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  • Birthday 01/01/1973

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  1. Well, I made the critical error of not looking here before ordering some CVDs for my Hotshot. I bought some from rcmart that were specifically marketed for the Hotshot by the manufacturer. They were indeed 70mm and were binding like crazy. I've taken a punt on the suggestion above and ordered the DF03 68mm part above - so fingers crossed. I managed to find it in stock in Turkey of all places. Has anyone had any luck dremeling the suspension arms to let the wheels turn more? Unless it's an optical illusion - the inside of the rim is stopped when it hits the back of the arm.
  2. That's exactly what I needed thanks @moffman. And I'm with you - the Hotshot needs to be low!
  3. Nice - exactly what I think I want to do too. Do you just need to replace the cage? Or is the top body mold different too? (I thought I heard somewhere it was) And is it just me, or does the picture no longer load?
  4. I haven't bought a new car in years ... but as a fellow Hotshot lover, I might have to grab one or two of these! I never got on with the design of the Hotshot II, but this redesign looks kinda cool. I'll admit I'm already working out how I could drop the roll cage back down, and convert the rear back to a mono shock
  5. Hey @hedge I (he) is still here ... but actually very good at leaving things half finished ;) I got stuck where I always get stuck ... painting the body. I was so enormously afraid of painting the pristine vintage body, I actually sourced a second vintage body set that I could paint and run, with the comfort of knowing the real body was safe and sound until I knew what to do with it. It took me a while to find the parts (and I'm still short the body rails) - but I did actually start painting it in the absolute most boring way imaginable. So look forward to seeing that. My other challenge is that the gaskets leak - so debating whether to try again there, or just bite the bullet and silicone it as nature intended. This Hilux will see the trails this summer, and I'll make sure to add an update here.
  6. After years of trying to get my kids into Tamiya, I figured the hobby is more important than my brand loyalty, and got one of my sons the Traxxas he needed. He now wakes up, charges the cars, and pulls me out of bed to head to the local bike track ...
  7. Hi there, If that "wee box with the wire" is the thing at the bottom right of that picture - you're in luck - that's the receiver You just plug the black/yellow/red wire coming out of the speed controller (middle of the picture) into the receiver's throttle / channel 2, and that will usually power it too. Then just plug in the steering servo wire into channel 1. You then need to connect the motor to the ESC (speed controller). Your speed controller looks like it can handle brushless and brushed motors. Brushless motors needs the 3rd wire - brushed do not (that's what you have). I can't quite read it, but assuming that is a TBLE or something like it, you just connect the blue ESC wire to the green motor wire, and yellow to yellow - you can ignore the orange wire. Wiring is shown here: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/electronics/rc-esc-tble-02s-brushless/
  8. I can't remember who made this picture originally (simensays perhaps from the number plate) - so full credit to them. But this is my dream kit: an old school metal 3-speed FJ40 hardbody - ideally a short wheelbase version.
  9. Mark - all in on the Phantom Tollbooth! My dad read it to me when I was young - and I read it to my kids a few years back too. I'm still waiting for a large mysterious package to show up with my tollbooth in it.
  10. Thanks for the link - unfortunately not in the UK. I'd originally balked at buying the rear shocks from Japan as they were $20 + $20 shipping - but given those are 20 quid, I think you've convinced me I should just "spring" for them (groan). Thanks friend!
  11. Hey folks, Anyone have any suggestions for spring sets that would work with the 54505 big bore rear dampers? I managed to track down the front spring set (54506) - but the rears (54508) don't seem to be easy to find at all.
  12. I'll let others weigh in on the gears. But front knuckle slop and pogo-stick suspension are a hallmark of the Tamiya 3-speed experience. Enjoy!
  13. I love this! I've been doing some shopping around for old stick radios to do exactly this kind of thing. The 2.4 GHz conversion is pretty popular on the RC plane side of things from what I've seen. A lot of them seem to keep most of the guts of the old radio in tact (so all the mechanical trims, etc still work) and then magically shift the modulated signal into the right bands to feed the 2.4GHz transmission circuit. But certainly this doesn't give them the model memories and controls you get from the modern radios. Really interested to see where this project goes!
  14. You could definitely do a "58028 inspired" re-release with the parts that are shared or similar, but my guess is they're more different than the same. My guess would be that only common or inter-changeable parts would be: The gearbox and motor are different but probably interchangeable? (would need to confirm mounting holes) Axles probably (haven't check width and the front one-way binding on the actual axle shaft itself) Shackle mounts Much past that, and everything changes (from the solid chassis frames and cross members, to the radio box, to the body, to the steering/gear shift mechanisms, to the hubs and tyres, to the bumpers, etc). Again just my guess - would love a more scientific answer! Still, Tamiya have showed 3-speed re-releases are a thing - so bring on the original Hilux and the Blazer!
  15. So a little aside: I didn't realise the hub design on this model was actually part of the real truck (but seemingly only on the front what what I've been able to find): Does anyone know if this has a function on the 1:1 truck (e.g. 2wd to 4wd)? Or they just decided to add this huge sticky-outy bits to the centre of the front wheel?
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