Jump to content

V1nce

Members
  • Content Count

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About V1nce

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

1355 profile views
  1. When compared to the other Tamiya options the modern Abarth body is quite a slippery shape for a Mini shell. IIRC (and its been months since I last run the Abarth) the bib spoiler on the front of the actually works which leads to more steering.
  2. As long as you configure the M05 for MWB you'll be fine. In my experiance all tamiya M chassis share the same body post locations. If you’re racing the Abarth has the aero advantage Plus it normally rolls back onto to wheels when you get grip roll! LOL *Edited for brain farts*
  3. My favs... Didier Auriol's 33 Export livery The Rothmans car of Jimmy McRea Political correctness ruined liverys!
  4. Haven't run the 3racing spool myself but I have seen a few cars running it and i've run a spooly diff (tight ball diff) myself. Basically it gives you MORE under steer on entry and loads of snappy bite coming out of the corner under acceleration. A spool only really works on long open corners. Forget it on a tight twisty circuit. If you’re blowing Gear diffs I’d recommend a ball diff. TA03, not the rubbish M05 ball diff. 2 reasons... 1) your less like to blow it up 2) its adjustable, so you can get a spool action by tightening it right up.
  5. 3Racing produce a set... #M05-02. Theyre a bit complex to set up and are made of cheese, I wouldnt bother.
  6. The M05 arm gives the steering arms about same overall angle with a standard ball joint (As pictured). Yes that the M05 C hub. Its similar to the short versions found on the M03 R/Swift/Fiat 500. The only differance is a detail on the back which removes a stack point in the M05 steering. The kingpins are TA05 jobbies, but I'd recommend replacing these with top hats and M3 screw just like the M03 R. The kingpins tend loose themselfs pretty quickly. Thats correct you can use the M03R ally arm, but it sounds like Duane is running a early M03 with the huge C hubs. Therefore would require a F part tree from the later M03's or 5's. Personally I'd just buy the correct arms in the first place. Its not like theyre rare...
  7. M05 steering arm and C hub on a M03... The M05 uses the same bearing as the early (non swift/500) M03's.
  8. Mask and spray, which is probably going to be easier if you're painting the arches a lighter colour then the body.
  9. Some really nice Golf bodied FF03 over on RC Tech. Noticed that... Then again a FWD chassis is always going to be traction limit, so a bonker low turn brushless (problem in the DF03) is going to a waste of time. Therefore i'm guessing FF03 owners probably won't see the same failures seen in the DF03.
  10. Looks like a Mad Rat chassis. Have a read about them...
  11. The M05 improves the M03 design by correcting its flaws. Mount the RX and ESC next to the servo on the M04 and you pretty much have a RWD M05. What areas could be improved on the M04 to make that step to the M06 ?
  12. I don't mean to wizz on anyones fireworks but that says M05. The odd metalic blue M05 font makes it look like a 6 in all of the photos from the show. Its a bit more clear in this photo...
  13. ABC been the manufacture of that RWD thing (is it really called the goose?)... And PMSL at that image PaPeRo posted. I think its great that theyve designed RWD car that you cant fit a FWD body onto.
  14. Because all ABC bodies are SWB?
  15. Like this? New Genetic chassis IIRC.
×
×
  • Create New...