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Terz1

Battery question, which is best?

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Hi all. I've only recently returned to the hobby so sorry for this really basic question. Years back when I was a kid I loved the tamiya rc's, the building, painting and driving. I always remember being disappointed by the run times though, I always wanted to drive it for longer. They seemed to last for 5 or 10 minutes max.

So I'd just like to know what good quality, long lasting batteries are out there? I've had a good look but it's a sea of different makes and like anything you have good and bad versions.

I'm not really going for speed/racing it's more run time I'd like. It will be powering a mix of tamiya sport and torque tuned motors. I know lipo are probably better performers but I've recently bought a NiMH charger and want to stick with NiMH. Everything's moved on in leaps and bounds since I was last in the hobby 20+ years ago.

After a search I found this turnigy 5000mah battery and the price seems amazing. Is this a decent make of battery and what run times could I expect from it powering my tamiya torque tuned and sport tuned motors? Thanks for any help and any recommendations welcome. :)

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__56159__Turnigy_SC_7_2V_5000mAh_High_Power_Series_NiMH_Stick_Pack.html

56159_zps961ef1f5.jpg

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I have only had experience with their lipos which are ok.

Depends on the vehicle, but i would expect an average of +/- 45 mins with a silvercan.

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Thanks berman. 45 minutes would be plenty. Probably slightly less with my sport tuned and torque tuned motors, they're not very high performance after all. I plan on buying a few of these if people recommend them.

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I have used the above Turnigy 5000mah Nimh since August 2014. Maybe done 20 or so cycles. No complaints so far. Great for the price. Similiar mah battery at my LHS is $70 or more. Turnigy about $30 including postage.

Sports tuned i have been getting 40min to 1hour, depending on the terrain.

I also have a few of the other types 2000mah and 4200mah also. Good Quality!

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Thanks steve. I'll bear that in mind. I'll buy some lower capacity NiMh too so I can see the difference the increased weight makes.

Thanks SB_Aust . That's sounds pretty good to me. I think I'll give this a go.

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I've been using Carson 4500mAh NiMH packs and was satisfied with the runtime. Please keep in mind what Steve said about the weight and also the overall dimensions of high capacity NiMH packs. They won't fit into some battery compartments or clash with battery stoppers, e.g. DT-01 and TT-01E.

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I've been using Carson 4500mAh NiMH packs and was satisfied with the runtime. Please keep in mind what Steve said about the weight and also the overall dimensions of high capacity NiMH packs. They won't fit into some battery compartments or clash with battery stoppers, e.g. DT-01 and TT-01E.

I had a little trouble getting a larger pack into my vintage blackfoot. I had to loosen the screws on the battery stopper. I remember it being tight on my hornet too. Thanks for that I'll get some dimensions of my compartments and holders.

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A couple of brass 850 size bushings are good for spacing the back battery stop on models like the ORV chassis and the TL-01 style.

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That's much better than the plan I had. I was going to cut down some plastic mounts to place between the chassis and the end plate. I'll have a look at getting a set of these. Where did you get yours from steve?

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Thanks for the link. I think I'll have a set of these. :)

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When going from NiCD to NiMH, do I need to do anything with the ESC?

I would need to build a hump pack for mine as I have a Super Champ

45 minutes on a silver can would be lovely!

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I don't think any changes are required. I just tested my clodbuster the other day and have a couple of very old batteries. Ones a 2100 NiMH and the other was a 1600 NiCD. Both ran fine with my msc and they were fine in my esc hornet. I think there needs to be some changes to the esc if you go lipo.

I'm still learning about everything at the moment but as far as I know it'll be fine. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along soon to help.

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Nope you should be good, the main time for concern is when going from Nickel to Lithium based technology.

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I'm torn between going to LiPo. I don't want to turn my SRB gearbox to fine powder

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Going LiPo won't put any additional stress on the car, that is down to what motor you use. LiPo just means longer run times, reduced weight and more usable power for longer. Yes you get an extra 0.2v but that's not earth shattering in terms of additional power.

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yeah, so I could go LiPo with an XL5 ESC and my existing brushed motor no problem, yeah?

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Yep, the XL5 has built in LiPo support so it's essentially plug and play

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