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JLZ78

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About JLZ78

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1978

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  • Location
    Surrey, United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Vintage and new Tamiya

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  1. A half decent soldering station. Hopefully goodbye to rubbish solder joints.
  2. That is the point of an opinion. It's nothing more than a point of view - therefore neither wrong or right. Anyway, back to the build.....
  3. Doesn't mean you're right! Obviously...
  4. I'm not sure I have the time to race unfortunately. I admire these cars for their tech and uncompromising design. That appeals to me as much as the vintage soul of the Egress and Avante that are in my collection. I will run it at home and near my house, but I doubt I'll get the time to race. Thanks all for the feedback on the cables. I've done a bit of research and invested in a proper crimping tool to shorten the wires.
  5. We are all entitled to an opinion....
  6. Yeah, I did consider that, but experience has taught me there is a high likelihood of unreliability when wires are modified onthe small receiver plugs. In the interim I just loop the wire to keep it neater. I would like to shorten them, but only if I could keep them reliable.
  7. Step 34 Front wheel fitment. You need to be careful to add the spacer between the front hub bearings. Plus, fitting the wheel over the thin hex hubs is difficulties fiddly. Standing on its wheels for the first time. The rear toe-in is really noticeable. Ground clearance before batteries and weights.
  8. Step 31 and 32 - wheels and tyres I have some spare Tamiya C compound tyres which are very soft. They will do for initial trials. I originally superglued them at 4 points, but a test run on the workbench showed how much shape change the tyres undertake when running at high speed. They absolutely need gluing all round the rim. It's also upgrade time with a wider hub washer for the rear axle. Not sure what this brings to the party. Rear wheel fitment over the shaft is fiddly, but not as fiddly as the front hex hub up next.
  9. Step 30 - Aerial Fitment Not much to say here.... except the aerial tube is a rather nice blue colour
  10. Step 29 - ESC install The ESC is a Trackstar 140a version. The placement in the instructions calls for mounting the receiver on the servo. I'm not really up for that, so I'm placing the Spektrum SR310 in between the Savox and the Trackstar. The fit is tight and the ESC capacitor has been strapped to the upper deck. ESC clearance with the spur is key. I'm not a fan of soldering (probably because I'm not very good), but the motor wires have worked out ok. I will probably review the on/off switch placement.
  11. You don't have to pay over $1000 for the 201 XMW. It can be found online and in various retailers for much less. In short, it's a personal choice, but I wouldn't let cost be the significant factor at this level of buggy. It's about what performs the best and what you feel happiest driving. So if that happens to be the tamiya or losi etc, then go for it.
  12. Hello, 1) I don't oil the plastic parts before tapping. The tap is sharp and strong enough not to need it. 2) I tap the plastic adjusters completely and use a left hand tap for the other end so they adjust properly. 3) the X seals - don't know yet, time will tell!! They look to be a better long term prospect for this sort of buggy. I am expecting them to be more reliable.
  13. This hobby comes and goes in waves. I find the enthusiasm is always there, but rarely the time. I also find that a decent build tends to satisfy me for a good while which, when 80% through means the incentive to go an finish it is rarely there. To stop me having hundreds of unfinished projects lying around I don't start a new one till I have finished an old one. That said, this 'rule' is sometimes broken. I also only ever buy models I am really into, so for example, I rarely buy anything new that Tamiya produces unless it has some sort of historical significance for me. Take a break, give it a few weeks and then come back refreshed and with a plan on what to tackle next!
  14. I didn't get vertical slip, but a bit of longitudinal using the kit plastic parts. The big bore instructions suggest to use the kits standard plastic parts for the 502x and I wasn't happy with the result. I ended up using the metal parts included withthe big bores for the DB-03 and raided my parts bin for the nylon nuts. The slop is better than the plastic finish, but not perfect. I'm not sure if this is by design. It will be interesting to see the finish on a 503 and 201 XMW as they have big bores as standard.
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