Demoniac

Ah, that's yours?! I've used that site for help while building my kit. Tried finding out how much grease you used before the gearbox from the pictures etc Got so angry when I did everything I could to make sure the 3g ceramic grease lasted throughout the build, and when I started working on the MFC; "Now what's this, another tube of grease?"... Well, at least I haven't used too much. Regarding the MFC, I want my box to be intact, I want the bottom plate to be there, and a bunch of pallets with stuff inside the box. My idea was therefore to have only the biggest board in the tray, and wire the top board so it can be somewhere else. I thought I could fit them both in the tray, but that's not gonna happen. But underneath the box I'm afraid the ESC would be too hot, so I'm thinking of desoldering it and mounting it outside the box, where Tamiya's suggested location for the speed controller was. I'm not sure if this would work, but I hope so... Also, I need somewhere to put the small board and the vibration unit... The small board might fit in the cabin, as long as it doesn't get very varm? The vibration unit - having a hard time finding somewhere to put it...

Hi! I know this might belong more in the Big rigs category, but it can be relevant for all types of cars. I didn't know that the MFC is supposed to be hogging up all the space in the cabin, I don't like that. I thought that it would use the tray beneath the box, but I guess the ESC gets too hot under there, and it's a bit too high, so you'll have to cut through the floor on the box... This was my initial plan, but I would like the possibility to keep the box all intact. The speaker can be fitted underneath the roof as it's supposed to be, of course you'll see some of it through the windshields, but at least the interior will be intact. Plan B: This might be impossible, and a bit crazy - Desoldering the voltage regulators and wiring them up to an external PCB, placed where a typical ESC would be mounted. Also removing the top board if it's still to tall, and wire it up to fit on the side. The screw mounts for the vintage sound board will be removed, and maybe I'll also cut through the tray and mold in the bottom plate for the MFC, so it can be properly mounted. I'm not sure about this yet, but that would be the best way to get it as low as possible. The MFC is supposed to be mounted with a thick foam tape, is this necessary? Will it be ruined if it is screwed to the frame instead? Are the voltage regulators the only parts which gets really hot? Can I still have the rest of the MFC beneath the box "without" any cooling? Is this a stupid idea...? Btw, I want to post a picture, but it says "You have exceeded your allotted disk space for attachments"

Oh, wow! That looks way better than I imagined! Cool! I ordered the X-26 and X27, will test first on "scrap" parts Thanks!

Yeah, I'm adding the MFC-01. But wouldn't it look more clear when painting on the inside? I thought it should be covered as much as possible, and the manual doesn't say to paint on the inside... Does anyone have examples of paint on inside vs outside?

I'm continuing my 1:14 1850L build, and I've now come to the tail lights. What should I do, paint inside or outside? There are some details in the lens, if I paint it on the outside, will these still shine through? The 1850L is an old truck, and these lights were red and orange all the way through, so outside seems like the best solution to make them authentic. Also, the manual says "paint inside" on the sun protector and some other parts, but not these tail lights, which of course then speaks for it self - "paint on the outside". But I don't have any experience on how it will look... HELP!

I went for the original bushings, glued them in with a gel super glue which worked on plastics, metal, wood etc. Worked out perfectly! Thanks guys!

Excellent! Thanks! They should include that with the 1850L as well, it makes sense! I'll go with the bushings on that one. But that's the only place right?

Oh, OK. It didn't say anything about it in the manual. They should really do some revisions on that! I'll try with the bearings - the worst case scenario is that they get glued together and work like the metal ones, right? Or would the original full metal bushings be better, as they might be better for sideways movement? Btw. thanks for your prompt replies! I was really hoping to finish the gearbox this evening. I appreciate it!

You're exactly right - the J7. Sorry for not being clear, I had a couple of pictures more, but for some reason it said that I wasn't allowed to upload them... Anyways, I removed a couple of e-clips, then being able to remove J7, I tested it with the original metal bearings - same thing, they do not stay inside J7 when it moves. The other gears are on a nut, and they are a bit wobbly too, but that's not something that can be adjusted. The problem with J7 is that it tilts a bit, then snaps in place when moving it, which I'm afraid will wear it over time. AFAIK the best thing would be for the bearings to stay in the J7's slots at all times, moving back and forth with it, instead of the J7 moving on and off the bearings all the time. Would a drop of CA glue in the J7's slots and then dropping in the bearings be a good fix...? Will the glue ruin the plastic? (melt like plastic models?).

Hi! I'm assembling my 1850L's gearbox, and noticed that the second gear (clutch?) ball bearings are falling out of their sockets. I'm not sure if this would happen to the original metal bearings, there could be a microscopical difference in my Abec35 bearings compared to the originals. Should I glue the outer ring of the ball bearing into the plastic part so they stay in place? I'm not thinking of CA glue on the whole thing, but maybe a tiny drop of thread locking or similar... Take a look at these pictures; (For some reason I can only upload ONE picture, even though the file size is 150kB per picture..)

I settled for a 1850L from Tamiya, so not a semi. Maybe my next will be a semi. Can't wait to get it

Thanks guys! I'll see what I'll do when I get the shipment from RC4WD, maybe gluing the whole way around won't be necessary.

Exactly. I think maybe a bit more runny glue than that would help making a better flow on the rim where gluing the bead, but as you said not gluing the sidewalls. How important is it to have a complete seal between the tires and rims? I understand that larger models with high speed can benefit from that, but maybe it doesn't matter that much on the 1:14 trucks?

As I want my wheels to look authentic, I really don't want a bunch of glue marks on the tire and rims. The different YouTube videos I've seen are helpful for a correct gluing of tires, but they make an awful mess, ruining the scale look. They usually glue along the bead of the tire first, then the whole side of the tire, filling the small gap between the tire and rims after it's stuck to the bead. Is there any good way to glue the tires for a completely sealed wheel, but still have that nice look? I thought maybe using more glue on the bead, making sure it's fully glued, would be a better way to avoid spilling it...

Thanks! I'll take a look!