zomboided 374 Posted February 9, 2014 Been working on this on and off for the last week. Here are all the bits, with the prop, cups and high speed gearing hop ups. Popped the torque tuned motor Mr T included in the box in my spares pile and dropped in a 12T brushless as this is going to be a basher to see if I like buggy piloting as much as drifting. All done - then I realised that the body didn't fit on with the extra tall ESC, so I had to swap it for the transmitter box and put the transmitter unboxed on top of the servo. Trimmed the body today and took it for a whizz around the house as it's too wet outside. Not feeling box art...might go for a muted grey jet plane type scheme and get some black wheels. Or might break out the cherry red I'd been saving for my Axial build Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
s howell 28 Posted February 9, 2014 Looks good and would look even better with a stealth fighter look finish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
InsaneJim69 1584 Posted February 9, 2014 Looks good the only thing that put me off these was the severe lack of ground clearance James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zomboided 374 Posted March 8, 2014 I popped on a posh front and rear shock tower and a set of adjustable turnbuckles and it's really let me dial in the steering better. There's still some slop in the steering mechanism the arms connect to, next to the servo...has anyone got any opinions on the alloy steering hop up? Looks similar to the TT01 piece, anyone got any opinions on the earlier chassis upgrade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted March 9, 2014 GPM do a ballraced alloy steering upgrade, but as I am still waiting for mine to arrive, I can' t comment on how good it is... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zomboided 374 Posted April 5, 2014 I've spent some time hopping this up, and it's now lovely! I might get some proper universal shafts in the future, but now it seems really solid. I'm not sure how much I've ended up spending on this - I'd guess maybe the cost of the kit again in hop ups - or how it compares to the posher end of the Tamiya buggy spectrum, but I am looking forward to taking it out for a proper drive. Any way, here are the photos : Ally motor mount and hardened 20t pinion to go with the fast gear set. Ball raced steering upgrade (a Jazhobby one rather than the pricey Tamiya option), a Savox servo with kimbrough servo saver and adjustable turnbuckles all round. This has made a big difference to the steering and has let me dial in a really tight front end. And a body shot...love the little blue spacers on the new shock towers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cplus 94 Posted April 5, 2014 Nice clean build. What's with all the grease on the pinion and spur though? Recipe for mess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted April 5, 2014 How does the Jazhobby blue anodising compare to that of the genuine Tamiya parts? Is it pretty much identical or is there a noticeable difference? It looks very close in the photos Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zomboided 374 Posted April 5, 2014 Yeah, the photos are pretty representative, I can't tell the difference between the different anodised parts. I wasn't uber impressed with the quality/smoothness of the bearings, but given they're not under a lot of load, I'm happy to use them. And yes Cplus, I bought some new grease and wanted to use it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vrs55 35 Posted April 5, 2014 nice build I have used the same motor in my tt02 lancia it seems a good motor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grastens 2795 Posted April 5, 2014 What's with all the grease on the pinion and spur though? Recipe for mess. More like: "recipe for lubricated gears!" It would be, of course, irrelevant for open spur-and-pinion combinations, such as on Tamiya's on-road cars (at which point it does not stay on or attracts a lot of grit). It does get me thinking, though, about how important having that grease on there is - are on-road spur gears made of a different material to eliminate the need for lubrication, or have I just been making mistakes with my runners the past three years or so? Either way, a lot of nice things to look at on that TT-02B! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theibault 1535 Posted April 5, 2014 More like: "recipe for lubricated gears!" It would be, of course, irrelevant for open spur-and-pinion combinations, such as on Tamiya's on-road cars (at which point it does not stay on or attracts a lot of grit). It does get me thinking, though, about how important having that grease on there is - are on-road spur gears made of a different material to eliminate the need for lubrication, or have I just been making mistakes with my runners the past three years or so? Either way, a lot of nice things to look at on that TT-02B! I personally never grease my pinion and spur. Never had a problem as it is a recipe for a mess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grastens 2795 Posted April 5, 2014 ... Explains a lot, then! Another Neo Scorcher went on sale at my local hobby shop after they relocated, for the same price... My prior experience with my cousin's car has me tempted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cplus 94 Posted April 5, 2014 No need to grease pinion and spur, whether encased or not. If your pinion "needs" grease, it's worn out, replace it. The other mistake people make with pinions is meshing too tight. Good tip is to run a strip of paper between the pinion and spur and tighten against that. "Normal" thickness paper (ie: from a photocopier!) will give perfect mesh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grastens 2795 Posted April 5, 2014 That being said, though, I believe that at least one model of mine has a spur gear which also acts as an idler gear, meaning that like it or not, grease ends up on the pinion. So I am not a complete idiot, then... I hope Edit: I thought I was, but it seems the original Audi Quattro is one such model. But back to the actual thread... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zomboided 374 Posted April 6, 2014 I always grease up gears (and in this case, I've also used anti wear grease around the casing that covers the gearing so that it seals it up from the elements). However, I just checked the TT02B manual and it looks like the diff is greased, but there's no instruction to grease the motor pinion or large gear Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted April 6, 2014 Grease is slippery. As such, it helps reduce friction and wear when two parts are in relative motion while in contact. Therefore, assuming an absence of other variables, a greased geartrain will run more smoothly and last longer than an equivalent ungreased one. However when you introduce the dirt variable, things change. Grease plus dirt equals grinding paste. Therefore, in a geartrain where dirt ingress is a factor, an ungreased geartrain will run more smoothly and last longer than an equivalent greased one. I therefore believe it is wise to grease the gears in sealed gearboxes, and leave exposed ones ungreased, using a dry lube instead. So, in short, I think you did good by greasing your pinion and spur, as they are in a sealed enclosure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
super gripper 419 Posted April 6, 2014 Buggy spur gears do not need greasing as it is running against a metal pinion and not another plastic gear. If you get an after market spur gear from RW for example they are made from a plastic that reduces friction anyway. I never use a kit spur gear if I do not have to as they are injection moulded therefor not perfectly round. RW spurs are machined therefor perfectly round. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD RACER 566 Posted April 7, 2014 All 5 of our Neo's from Boondal have uncounted gear slipping ( Crunching ) from the rear gearbox. FMI has made a mod for it to stop and will be trying them out again this Sat all going well. His is fixed the slipping on his and just made another 3 more mod plates for me and the others. Motors ranged from 9t to 13t brushless. Suspension mods will be next on the list. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted April 7, 2014 All 5 of our Neo's from Boondal have uncounted gear slipping ( Crunching ) from the rear gearbox. Please tell us more about this issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD RACER 566 Posted April 8, 2014 Please tell us more about this issue. Well it seems to be a problem with the Neo's after a few packs the gears start to slip.( when run with a decent brushlees motor) The problem we feel is that it being a on road car from the out set with no slipper the rear gears start to slip over bumps & jumps. We tried a new gear set that we boiled and the problem was still there. FMI at Boondal seems to think it's the rear crown gear ( Main diff gear) that it flexes with bumps and loads. So he made a alloy plate that fits in the groove of the crown gear and machined the case out to take it. In testing his seems to be fine after a whole day of running with a 9t brushless. I feel the stock suspension isn't helping so new shocks will be going on mine with more droop to help the chassis and drive train with shocks. I will post pic's once all done. Sorry to be off the topic BUT this is still a awesome buggy for the money. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted April 8, 2014 What a pity! Thanks for the explanation. I remember the DF-02 having some gearbox internal parts upgraded from plastic to metal in the transition from TT-01 to DF-02. But I'm not sure what exact parts were affected. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zomboided 374 Posted April 8, 2014 Ooooo, I sense more mods. Regarding the suspension issue, what's wrong with the stock CVAs with softer springs or different oil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted April 8, 2014 All done - then I realised that the body didn't fit on with the extra tall ESC, so I had to swap it for the transmitter box and put the transmitter unboxed on top of the servo. I found the body sits high with the supplied ESC too - probably why Tamiya never fitted a servo to the one in their promo pics I've got the ESC and RX mounted on their sides between the servo and the endbell of the motor where the radio box should be Pics from http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/off-road-buggies-36450/rc-neo-scorcher-58568 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted April 8, 2014 What a pity! Thanks for the explanation. I remember the DF-02 having some gearbox internal parts upgraded from plastic to metal in the transition from TT-01 to DF-02. But I'm not sure what exact parts were affected. The DF02 uses metal crown gears. Doing a side-by-side comparison with the plastic ones from the TT01, they look identical apart from the material. So, since I gather TT01 and TT02 diffs are interchangable, I think it is safe to say that DF02 and TT02B diffs would also be interchangable.Methinks I will be running DF02 diffs in my TT02B (when I build it that is...) @MAD RACER: Thanks for the info! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
