Jesse James

Thank you very much for your help!!

Hey guys, this has been a very interesting read, thank you for going to the effort of posting I've noticed a few people mention that you can use associated spurs on the car when using the slipper setup. Just wondering if I'm still using the standard dn01 parts, will an associated spur work also? I want to run a smaller spur to gear the car for 17.5 brushless for some local club racing Cheers

Cheers mate, we understand, but I guess what we want to know is how much more motor movement is available, eg you use 77/22, that's really helpful, but when you have that gearing, is there much movement left for you motor to either use a smaller pinion or a larger one ie could you fit a 30t pinon or an 18 for example Cheers for the help

Hey mate. Just to help avoid buying extra spurs, are you able to let us know if the 72t works and which pinions? Even with a 75t option I'm looking at needing a 28-29 pinion and I don't even know if that will fit so I'm hoping to run 72/27 Cheers

Legend, thanks

Cheers for the build update and comments. If it's not too much trouble, do you know how much heavier it is than the astute? And where in your opinion is the weight coming from, ie the chassis or the gearbox components etc thanks again

so what about the car and upgrades? i saw somewhere that the optima ball diff is compatible, just from looking at the gears, it looks like the optima standard and brushless spurs will be compatible too for different gearing options. not sure about the shock lengths, but i'd hope that the repro golds for the optima will fit too

If you guys like running fast motors in the vintage cars, we have mod classes at the festival too Cheers

Good luck with the madcap chickenman. BTW which unis did you go with in the end, I might have missed it if you posted it The madcap arms do have a serious amount of flex, the castor much change dramatically as different forces are applied. The super astute arms are significantly better. I ended up putting them on my astute in the end

You can get a brushed esc from hobbyking for about $30 and the motor might cost 15-20. I'm not telling you to do anything but it seems a waste to have a nice car but not get to run it

Hey guys, I know the silver cans don't sound too appealing but we run them at the vintage festival in sydney as our stock class motor and they are the biggest classes of the weekend. The racing is close and fun and the cars are traveling at a safer speed. People have asked about 17.5 or 21.5, you'll find you won't be able to gear the madcaps etc tall enough because of the limited ratios available. Cheers

Yeah run a sport tuned with the 15t pinion and you'll have a ball. I've just done a rebuild on my bear hawk. I'll be racing it in some vintage racing here in Australia

32dp champ. The 17t gives you an FDR of 7.06 which is good for a 540 motor, the 15t gives an FDR of 8.0 which is better for sport tuned and faster. As stated above, the Blitzer gears offer lower gearing options if you were planning on running hotter motors

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69225 Hey mate, I put an A & L on my astute, have a look at the link. my astute uses a lot of madcap parts for strength and light weight cheers Mikey

From what I've read the original triumph wasn't too good and the thoughts at the time and later were that the front end geometry was wrong (not sure what it was that was wrong), and the long arms the car had didn't work for some reason so a version 2 was brought out for the team guys which was better but that wasn't long -lived then they brought out the pro-x in 93 so the triumph didn't get a long run. I've just rebuilt one myself for some vintage racing in Australia. If you look at the british/European races in 91/92 there's a few of them running