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kontemax

Rotten Hi-Cap dampers

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Hi,

today I checked the Hi-Caps of my Egress runner and they are rotten more than the Sex Pistols.

The blue top seals are hard like steel, believe me, they don't flex, they are hard and I pushed them with my fingers strongly and they don't bend. I believed they will break but nothing, they have simply become hard plastic. The problem is that they have a cut in the middle so the oil leaks out from the aeration hole in the top cap.

The lower o-rings are at the same way ruined. I changed them years ago but they leak many oil.

At the end the piston stems are sloppy and have many side movement. I believe that the white spacer holes are bigger than original, totally worn.

I want to refurbish these damper because the structure of the cylinders and the stems are ok.

The top seal is not a problem. I know the red top DF-03 seals (CVA II I suppose) are ok as spare parts. They are also modern with softer compound and I believe will work better than originals.

The o-rings are also not a problem, they are still in production. I could use transparent silicon ones that are better than orange ones.

The problems are the inner white spacer and the piston plate.

Where can I find some spare parts, also from other brands or models? Does it exist some TRF fluorine coated part or similar to adapt it please?

The inner cylinder was a little bit scratched so I polished it. Now the damper should be more smooth.

The piston plate doesn't fit very well because is not so precise, its diameter is too small and this help the piston rod to move. I would like to redo it by myself in teflon with correct diameter tolerance.

I'm also thinking to mount some golden titanium coated piston shafts. Do you know if some brands have the correct lenght to adapt them to the Hi-Caps please?

many thanks

Max

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If you are looking at replacing the shock shafts, then maybe you could look at using some 1/8 inch (3.157mm) shock shafts out of a Team Associated vehicle for example..

The slightly larger 1/8 inch shafts may help compensate for some of the wear in the HiCaps bushings/spacers.. Just use the Associated 1/8 O rings instead of the Tamiya 3mm O rings, otherwise the 1/8 shafts may be too tight of a fit and bind with the 3mm O rings..

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Some (archival) illustrations for the curious .

Vintage

DSC01086.jpg

ReRe

DSC01411.jpg

For the lower rod guides maybe the TRF (84292) fit, OD 6.5mm, ID 3mm and T 2mm

Does anybody know where to source the tiny Cclips (google ^_^ ), whats the right size.

Max I might have some spare piston plates.

edit: measured the original lower rod guides those are OD 6.15mm then I had a go at the rere HiCaps (should be the 84292) those measured 6.35

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My old Egress shocks to rebuilt with modern/current TRF o-ring and Teflon bushing, same pack as I use for touringcar TRFs.

Shafts are 3mm metric, don't go swapping in imperial rods to confuse things :).

Should be fine to reuse anyways, haven't seen any worn bad enough to chuckout yet.

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Hi, the piston plates are ok, probably is the cylinder Inner Diameter that is bigger...

So the TRF 84292 don't fit? Will it be possible to find rod guides for the Hi Cap as spares? Where?

Max

EDIT: Found them.

Max

For the lower rod guides maybe the TRF (84292) fit, OD 6.5mm, ID 3mm and T 2mm

Does anybody know where to source the tiny Cclips (google ^_^ ), whats the right size.

Max I might have some spare piston plates.

edit: measured the original lower rod guides those are OD 6.15mm then I had a go at the rere HiCaps (should be the 84292) those measured 6.35

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I found them on eBay, they are common, don't have the link now must make the search again.

Max

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Can anyone let me know which type of piston rods i need? I am also about to rebuild some vintage hicaps for my Astute.

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How did you get on? I am stripping my vintage hicaps as the seals have gone.

Hi,today I checked the Hi-Caps of my Egress runner and they are rotten more than the Sex Pistols.The blue top seals are hard like steel, believe me, they don't flex, they are hard and I pushed them with my fingers strongly and they don't bend. I believed they will break but nothing, they have simply become hard plastic. The problem is that they have a cut in the middle so the oil leaks out from the aeration hole in the top cap.The lower o-rings are at the same way ruined. I changed them years ago but they leak many oil.At the end the piston stems are sloppy and have many side movement. I believe that the white spacer holes are bigger than original, totally worn.I want to refurbish these damper because the structure of the cylinders and the stems are ok.The top seal is not a problem. I know the red top DF-03 seals (CVA II I suppose) are ok as spare parts. They are also modern with softer compound and I believe will work better than originals.The o-rings are also not a problem, they are still in production. I could use transparent silicon ones that are better than orange ones.The problems are the inner white spacer and the piston plate.Where can I find some spare parts, also from other brands or models? Does it exist some TRF fluorine coated part or similar to adapt it please?The inner cylinder was a little bit scratched so I polished it. Now the damper should be more smooth.The piston plate doesn't fit very well because is not so precise, its diameter is too small and this help the piston rod to move. I would like to redo it by myself in teflon with correct diameter tolerance.I'm also thinking to mount some golden titanium coated piston shafts. Do you know if some brands have the correct lenght to adapt them to the Hi-Caps please?many thanksMax

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Can anyone let me know which type of piston rods i need? I am also about to rebuild some vintage hicaps for my Astute.

The time has come to continue my Astute project. Still looking for someone to tell me which length of postion rods go into original hicaps (rear).

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Hi, tomorrow will measure them.

If I will not do it please remember me.

Max

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I confirm the measurement:

Total lenght: 49.5 mm

Thread lenght: 5 mm

E-clips/piston plate lenght: 4 mm.

Usable rod lenght: 40.5 mm

Max

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Do you know if the TRF Titanium coated shafts would fit? measurements are similar. I now have 8 sleeved new damper bodies and 4 hicap short and 2 mini which I to build up into working dampers.

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I don't know and I really would like to know because I want to upgrade the Hi Caps with these coated golden rods.

Max

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Well gentlemann, the crucial bit would be the diameter of the shafts and which piston discs will fit without wobling (distance between e clips).

So bring out your calipers and compare. ;)

edit: hicap and dyna, 3mm for the shaft dia. and approx 2mm between the e clips (piston discs of hicap 1.9mm)

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Diameter: 3 mm

Distance between the C-clips: 3 mm but I must check to be 100% sure.

Max

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All Tamiya piston rods are 3mm. As for the distance between C-clips, it really doesn't matter. Any excess space can be taken up by washers or precision shims. Even the TRF pistons are shimmed between the C-clips. You should always do this to decrease the reaction time of the damper. Otherwise you will have a dead-spot where the rod moves, slightly with zero damping every time the piston changes direction.

I've even used cheap-o CVA damper rods in my hi-cap rears before. They work fine. The space between the c-clip grooves is MASSIVE on these. I had to stack two 3mm ID washers (not shims) below each piston to firm them up. This was always a problem on the DF03 if I remember correctly.

TRF piston rods should work fine. Even if the length isn't exact. You can always adjust the total length via different means (droop limiters or different rod ends).

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Somebody has the correct lenght of titanium coated TRF or non Tamiya piston rods that can fit the Hi Cap please?

Many thanks

Max

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