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JennyMo

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About JennyMo

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  1. I don't know if it works on the over-run/breaking, but have you tried a receiver with a built-in giro? Apparently the Flysky GT5 receivers (BS6) have that facility built in, so that if the rear end steps out, it counter-steers to help correct. Whether that is allowable in your race series I'm not sure of course, but it might be a consideration? Jx
  2. Great project! Is that turquoise blue on the body a tester for the final paint colour? - If so, I wholeheartedly approve! Jx
  3. Yes, user a ruler! - If you mean the kind which fit over the top of traditional body posts, measure how much they stick up above the top of the post, then use that measurement to gauge how high you want it to sit under the body shell (don't forget to allow for the thickness of the magnet you need to glue to the underside of the body of course). Count the holes in the existing posts to ensure you cut them at the same either either side/front-to-back, and if in doubt, don't cut too much off at a time - cut them down a bit, fit the magnets to the top, and see how thew body sits, then take a little more off as required.
  4. Forgotten update! (1/11/23) Yes I know this is an old thread - but I realise I'd forgotten to include some photos of what I consider is a pretty useful update which I made over two years ago now, and also took this opportunity to change the thread title [to reflect the new driver], not least as there is very little of my original 'Desmond' crawler left now of course - in fact only the chassis rails and skid plate as I recall! Following on from my bonnet mods to the ebaYJeep towards the end of 2021, I thought I might also do something similar to the Land Crusier so that I wouldn't have to remove the body each time to change the battery: photo. It still looks surprisingly 'standard', however... photo. ...the bonnet is now hinged it for easy access to the battery compartment (and other electronics) without having to remove the body each time! Having the battery (a shorty 2S Lipo hard-case in this instance) mounted up under the scuttle panel means it was feasible to cut out the original bonnet along the crease lines, and reattach it with some working hinges - suitably modified to try and ape the original moulded detail: photo. painstakingly shaped to match in with the tongue portion of the moulded tabs. I also took the opportunity to jiggy the various badges and decals around, and get some new 'personal' plates made up to reflect the new owner: Plus one for the front end too: Right, that is this thread brought right up to date - and I trust you'll appreciate these latest mods! Jenny x
  5. One other thing to consider, although it is a more expensive route potentially, is for any wheels which use the SLW wheel/hub pattern (ie. higher quality six-bolt wheels, such as those from Vanquish Products and some other 3rd party wheel manufacturers) is to use the dedicated 'freewheel' hub from Locked-Up RC... https://www.lockeduprc.com/SLW-Bearing-Adapter-Wheel-Hubs_p_864.html They are a proper two-bearing hub, which you then bolt the wheel to using the six bolts (like a real car/truck) - I've used these on a couple of 2WD/RWD builds, including the SRB Cage-Racer - which uses SRB front and rear suspension. Jx
  6. Following on from above - I had a noodle back in my showroom (here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=79178&id=25648) and it appears I used the uprights/steering knuckles from the shared TL-01, WR-02 and M Chassis part sprue, together with a pair of M-03 rear stub axles (which I imagine are the same parts as the M-02 front axles, since the M-02 is RWD and the M-03 was FWD)... As I say, as long as the uprights fit into the lower wishbones of the Blitzer Beetle, you should be able to make it all work using factory Tamiya parts, even if it does require the odd spacer or different length screw. Jx
  7. As I recall, you can use the front uprights and the stub axles from one of the RWD M-chassis cars (I did this years ago with a WR-02 chassis, which has freewheeling/bearing front wheels originally) - have a look at the build manuals (they are downloadable from Tamiya USA) and see if the uprights from an M-02 or the MF-01X for example (which I know uses the bearing supported stub axles and 12m hexes on the front) have long enough axles for the wheels you have. Knowing Tamiya, I suspect the front uprights are the same width as those on your Blitzer front suspension arms, so they ought to interchange. Jx
  8. I've only just seen this. Best wishes in the next life my friend. Jx
  9. Quick update: Following on from my 'almost finished' photos, I decided that adding spoiler was probably not as authentic or 'scale' as this buggy has ended up being, so have elected to fit a spare wheel on the rear instead - which also has the benefit of adding a little extra weight to the rear as I noticed it can skip a bit over bumps and jumps, being appreciably nose-heavy once the battery is installed under the hood. photo. spare front tyre (more narrow that the rears, and a similar overall diameter) - on a spare six-stud (to match) white 8-spoke wheel I had kicking around. The mount itself was easy to fab up with a strip of 2mm styrene (together with a return lip at the front to add some more rigidity) and an M4 bolt, nut and a short spacer - again, all parts from my spares stash: photo. Initially tacked in place with superglue, then the joint to the cage beefed up with Araldite 2-part epoxy - don't worry, I've since painted over the glue with flat black paint too. photo. the wheel is an RC4WD white 8-spoke, with scale hub nuts (to match those on the main wheels), and the spinner is a random plastic part from some plastic cage set (as I recall) I'd bought some time in the past... not it is possible to make a similar spinner by using the appropriate sized wing-nut, and grinding the wings down - then gluing/soldering on a short length of tube to each stub to create the handles - see my SRB Cage Racer for an example. photo. installed in a dedicated 'garage' in my display unit, I'm calling this one done for now! Overall I'm really pleased with how this build has turned out - initially I was just going to build a 'basher' as it's not a style vehicle I have in my collection, but inevitably as the project evolved, I couldn't help but start to add more and more scale detailing - the driver and interior particularly - although at the same time, I still consider this build (using an Axial Capra Cage and aluminium front suspension/rear axle combo) robust enough for some track and general rough and tumble running... Toot toot for now! Jenny x
  10. Yes, although having run it again recently, with the weight of the battery pack up front (under the windscreen area) it is rather nose heavy, and can cause the rear end to hop a bit - so I feel adding a spare wheel and tyre on the rear is probably a better option to help readdress the current weight imbalance... I shall experiment with both. Jx
  11. Hee hee - they kind of did with the BBX of course ;o) Jx
  12. Right then, I think we're 99% finished with this one! It's amazing what a few sponsor stickers can do to lift the overall appearance don't you think? photo. A mix of Tamiya Super Champ (Fighting Buggy) decals and some additional sponsor logos... the overall effect being very similar to the newly released Tamiya BBX buggy I thought? photo. RC4WD Mickey Thompson tyres (slightly more narrow on the front) with 1.9 size alloy wheels - using Locked-Up RC freewheeling SLW hubs on the front stub axles (this being a 2WD buggy). photo. custom chassis [hand] cut from 2.5mm aluminium, with aluminium mesh insert for the grille panel. photo. aluminium IFS suspension (aftermarket for the Tamiya DT-02/03 buggy chassis) with Tamiya Frog shocks front and rear - using RC4WD springs. photo. Marty McFly was the perfect fit inside the Capra cage - the offset 550 motor and low-profile gearbox (to the right) allows for a full depth interior on the driver's side. photo. solid rear axle is SCX10 II width, with wider rear hexes to match the track width of the IFS buggy suspension up front. photo. aluminium body panels (From Luxury RC on Ebay) partially painted with Tamiya TS15 blue... The rear quarter panels behind the cabin are custom cut from 0.5mm aluminium, curved to fit the tapered cage profile, and glued in place - they really tie the whole body together I think? photo. custom styrene dash covered in self-adhesive carbon-fibre, seat is from Gmade (shortened to fit cabin) and 'real' seatbelt holds Marty in place. photo. hood vents (for a Land Rover) glued on, and a mix of decals - Axial, Tamiya and RC4WD for the RC elements, together with various Super Champ stripes and Tamiya based sponsor logos, paying homage to the Tamiya buggies of old (and the new BBX). photo. I'm still debating whether to add some kind of rear spoiler... we'll see eh? Right time to get it proper dusty and almost inevitably scuff up a few of those stickers! Toot toot for now! Jenny x
  13. Slow going on this one I'm afraid, although picked up the mantle again last weekend and have made some inroads... First of all, being happy with the overall stance and layout of the running gear, I felt this project deserved a new chassis plate, rather than the existing one which was now riddled with holes due to relocating the steering servo and the the transmission during development: photo. old (left) and new (right) - essentially the same, and cut from 2.5mm thick aluminium - by hand! (well, a Jig-saw and then a file). photo. servo mounts moved forward 5mm so I no longer needed to use spacers - 3-gear low-profile transmission bolts using the original Axial 3-gear layout. photo. using 2.5mm thickness aluminium not only gives plenty of strength (for a buggy which is likely to be jumped and bumped from time to time), but also allows the front suspension subframe and servo mounts to use counter-sunk bolts - keeping the skid-plate smooth. With the chassis back together, it was now time to try and work out how much of an interior could be fitted in the compact cabin, and fundamentally perhaps how much of a driver figure would actually fit in there without some pretty drastic amputation! photo. cardboard template used to mark out an interior rear bulkhead and floor panel, made from 1.5mm styrene sheet. photo. fortunately the offset motor and low profile transmission means there was some semblance of space to the left, enough for a seat and driver figure? photo. plenty of depth on the left hand side, and only a slight trimming of the seat bolster ought to be required to clear the top of the transmission... A quick measure of the resultant space, and it turns out one of these G-made bucket seats would also just fit inside the cabin - although I ultimately chopped about a quarter of an inch (6mm) from the bottom, and glued the side bolsters directly the floorpan - factoring the drivers legs would hide the lack of a seat cushion anyway... Back to the... drawing board. And speaking of the driver - while I had initially considered Igino Montoya* for this particular installation (see the previous post regarding painting the body panels), once the alternative arrived in the post, it turned out his slightly shorter stature was perfect for the interior of the Capra! *don't worry, I'm sure Inigo will find his way into something in future! photo. not only is Marty the right scale, but he's also the right size (including his legs) to actuallt fit inside the cabin - result! photo. as mentioned above, the G-made seat was trimmed around the base, and then glued directly to the interior panel (now flashed over in flat black). photo. Marty gets a proper harness seat-belt (plus as a couple of strips of double sided foam tape holding him snugly into the seat recess), and you may notice I also painted his see-through right hand in flesh tone - this version of Marty McFly being the one where he is playing guitar at the Enchantment Under The Sea dance, and he starts fading away when his parents don't appear to be getting together after all... photo. initially I considered fitting rubber window nets (as I had done with the Baja Blazer build), and spent a painstakingly long time gluing each individual ribbon to the inside of the cage frame with superglue... photo. ...however, I ultimately felt this build would work better with open side windows, and Marty hanging onto the cage with his left hand while steering with his right. I then fabricated a simple dash-board panel which follows the cage profile, and utilised the G-made steering wheel which came with the seats, together with a custom column cover... I may ultimately also fabricate a small instrument binnacle (quite possibly using a spot-light housing, again as I had with the Baja Blazer build), but for now elected to simply cover the assembly with self-adhesive carbon fibre, factoring that would be a suitably racy material to use in a real buggy like this. photo. hanging on in there...Marty's left hand was perfect for gripping the roll cage frame. photo. Corbeau decals attached to cheap Ebay self-assembly seat-belts - laborious, but ultimately worth it for added authenticity. With regard to 'hiding' all the electronics - you can just see the ESC mounted to the seat bulkhead in what might otherwise be the passenger space (once of the reasons I painted the interior panel black on this build was to try and hide the ESC and motor/gearbox assembly for being quite so obvious), while the Receiver is fitted inside the fuel cell on the rear of the cage, and with all the other wiring routed under the floor/driver's seat. Indeed the only real concession was to leave the two battery cables loose inside the cabin, as that is really required when installing the shorty 2S pack in the dedicated slot under the scuttle panel/hood. The result is as close as I can get to an 'open' buggy, with what is essentially a full-depth interior, while still incorporating a decent size battery, motor/transmission and the associated other electronics. photo. "Are you telling me you built a full-depth interior, into a Capra?!" I'm delighted to say the buggy handles just as well (or badly) as it did before, now that the driver and interior has been fitted - and all there really is left to do now is to decide one where all the various sponsor decals I've ammased will go... More soon, then I'll catalogue this one for posterity too - before the inevitable roll-overs and crashes mean it will never look quite so pristine again! Jenny x
  14. Hi Jim - have a look in my showroom here: Showroom There are the various entries of the build stages of my Stumpkin and StumpScorcher (and the StumpKamper) there, plus in the Builds section here on the forum - you'll have to scroll/search back a bit since they were built a while ago now... Jenny x edit. Here you go, links to the original build threads: STUMPkin STUMPscorcher STUMPkamper and a bonus: Short Willy (MF-01x chassis)
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