7 replies to this topic

[kalsh]

Hi there. I am relatively new to the SRB chassis after recently picking up an all but complete second hand Sand Scorcher. I thought to myself I wouldnt mind having a second one I could run and let get knocked about a little. I have a passion for VWs also. So off I went and purchased a Super Champ chassis. I want to put replacement shocks on it and realize this subject has been covered off before some time ago therefore I am seeking guidance on what reasonably priced and readably available shocks are on the market now with coil over springs which would do the trick. I see some Ebay sellers selling coil over shocks which say they will fit the SRB chassis. Has anyone out there purchased any of these? Do they work? Can anyone suggest something that works?

To the front end one torsion bar is slightly bent I reckon I can straighten it in the vice providing I use aluminum covers on the jaws. The grub screws look very small and I am scared I will strip some of them therefore I was thinking heat would be the answer via say soaking the front end in very hot water. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to strip the front end down safely? I have polymorph to rebuild the ballraces.

As an aside my new VW Golf GTI Cup Racer arrived today from JR-RC- it looks like a very nice body with the chrome light buckets for the LEDS. It will go very nicely with the other NIB VW kits I have namely, Re Released Beetle (M04), New Beetle (FF01), Golf V5 (FF01), Golf VR6 FF01, Original beetle well actually a mini which the chassis is built but an original body set purchased before re-released model came out, and Monster Beetle (not a NIB but all new parts acquired over time to build one day maybe??)

All suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated.

P.S. yes I know Beetlelover is also in NZ and we have traded a few times and email each other from time to time (different ends of the North Island) and is good to know there are others from this neck of the woods involved here.

Regards

Kelvin

[Gruntfuggly]

When you say torsion bar - do you mean one of the axles? The SRB doesn't actually have torsion bars in the front suspension - although it looks it they should!

[kalsh]

When you say torsion bar - do you mean one of the axles? The SRB doesn't actually have torsion bars in the front suspension - although it looks it they should!

yep - front axles - I was thinking of my real life sized ragtop beetle front end terminology.

[B.M.T.]

I'm about to tear down the front end of Retroscorcher, so I'll let you know what goes "boing" never to be found again

[Gruntfuggly]

All four of my axles were bent when I got my scorcher. All I did to straighten them was to put them in a vice and gently hit them with a hammer until they rolled nicely on a flat surface...

If you do strip the grub screws, you could redrill the holes and put larger ones in... you might get away with it though - mine were fine.

[prplehz]

I'm about to tear down the front end of Retroscorcher, so I'll let you know what goes "boing" never to be found again

That has to be one of my favorite quotes of all time!

Good luck on your scorcher. I have one on the way as well I plan to clean up and store/drive once in a blue moon.

[B.M.T.]

Kind words, sir

Well, I can honestly say, there is little in stripping a SRB front end. Follow the obvious, and it's a no brainer. You'll need both common sized on Tamiya's hex drivers and a wee little flat blade for the ball joint socket retaining screws ... It seems you need to release them from the arms to properly drop the ball joints from them - the portion that extends through the arm uses the arm to increase the tension on the ball cup throat.

Just be cautious when tightening the little grub screws that locate the top arms to the pseudo torsion bars. The thread is very shallow, and the alloy is very soft.

[dazaa]

Hi mate
Dont worry, stripping the front end is very easy. I could strip and rebuild one in less than 30mins. As for the grub screws, well they are very soft and it is very easy to strip the heads, first spray them with wd40 leave for afew mins then using a good quality allen key(not a cheapo 99p one that will strip the head) slowly start undoing them, if there is a damaged head then i found that puting the allen key in at an angle then very slowly undo the screw can get it out. No matter what you must change the grub screws when you rebuild it. Once the grub screws are off then its pretty easy, you need another allen key to undo the big nuts that hold the front end togeather then the whole thing should just come apart.

good luck.

regards
dazaa