6 replies to this topic

[Edge(2)]

Greetings Members,

I am in a quandry here, hoping for some good advice.

I am busy with my first of many resto's and I need some help regarding the removal of cemented parts. I know that there are different types of plastic cement, CA's as well as those that almost 'weld' the plastics together.
I am told that WD-40 will remove some of these....any truth in that? CA's, depending on the application can be slowly 'cracked' apart but the 'welders' are pretty permanent...
Your cunning plans will be tested with reserve, but I would like to hear your advice.

Thanks All
Andy[]

[TWINSET]

I got some decent results by sharply tapping the part with a screwdriver handle, most of the time the glue cracks under shock.
It really depends how much glue was used.
Old model cement used to slightly melt both surfaces (welding) so they become one piece, so you're usually gonna end up with slight defects.
Superglue/CA tends to break better as it doesn't have good shear strength (sliding resistance) so smacking it from the side, if possible, is better.

[J3cubfan]

Hello:
For CA get a debonder. It works wonders. Just test this in a small area to insure that it does not adversely effect the plastic. For epoxy, I dunked the body in warm water for about 1 hour. I think Snollan suggested this, thanks[]. Anyway, the epoxy came right off without any problems.
Now I am working a Sand Scorcher Body where the previous owner glued the Window to the body[:(!]. I ended up taking an X-Acto knife with a #11 blade and scoring (lightly) around the cemented parts. The window came out but I still had to contend with the cement. I ended up taking my Dremel and on the lowest lightly, heavy emphasis on lightly sand away the cemented area. You will have scoring marks from where the cemented etched its way into the plastic but you can use body filler to fix the pot-marks...
HTH
John

[Razer]

CA is easily removed with acetate. I used baby oil, it has acetate in it and it worked wonders on plastic parts and my fingers.[]

[WillyChang]

The only thing WD40 has successfully removed for me is paint from Tamiya's paintpens. It doesn't seem affect any other Tamiya paint once its cured.

This is WD40 from a spraycan; I only recently discovered WD40 can be bought in liquid non-pressurised jerrycans, dunno if this makes any difference.

[DJTheo]

Unfortunatelly Tamiya painpens can be removed almost with everything, car wax, warm finger... []

[WillyChang]

quote:

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Originally posted by DJTheo

Unfortunatelly Tamiya painpens can be removed almost with everything, car wax, warm finger... []

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Oh ya, true!!
I always paint some X-clear on top.