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Stadium Blitzer Upgrade essentials


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#1 Shaggy39

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 11:44 PM

Hi All

Just ordered my Blitzer from Ebayer and have got the shell sorted (Parma Beetle). I've also found out about a couple of mods like dt02 turnbuckles and df02 universal shafts but would like to know what else is recommended? Plan to go brushless by the way. Any guidance appreciated as usual

1. Best B/less set up - would 4300kv be about right?
2. Bearing set - cheapest place to get generic set from?
3. Ball Diff- what fits, if any?? Is it necessary or an standard gearbox take b/less?
4. Best bashing wheels and tyre combo that is diret bolt on

Thanks

#2 taliesin

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 02:23 AM

start with a good steel pinion for sure.
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#3 OldSchoolRunner

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 03:22 AM

Hi All

Just ordered my Blitzer from Ebayer and have got the shell sorted (Parma Beetle). I've also found out about a couple of mods like dt02 turnbuckles and df02 universal shafts but would like to know what else is recommended? Plan to go brushless by the way. Any guidance appreciated as usual

1. Best B/less set up - would 4300kv be about right?
2. Bearing set - cheapest place to get generic set from?
3. Ball Diff- what fits, if any?? Is it necessary or an standard gearbox take b/less?
4. Best bashing wheels and tyre combo that is diret bolt on

Thanks


Do yo have a pic or a link to the turnbuckles and universal shafts?
Thanks
OSR

#4 TA-Mark

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 03:51 AM

#53828 DT02 Turnbuckle Set. This set contains all the needed turnbuckles to do the four upper links and the two steering links, all the needed ballcups, and some ball nuts and screws. You may need some extra mount hardware to adapt the ball screws/nuts to the Blitzer chassis mount points. Otherwise it's like the set was made for the Blitzer.
#53791 DF02 assembly universal shaft set. This set contains two 70mm universal shafts (CVD type). The older Thundershot universal shaft (#53028) set will work also.
Put the part numbers into google images and it will show what they look like.

I have both of these upgrades on my Blitzer.

Brushless 4300Kv will work fine. I have Castle 4600Kv in mine.
Bearing sets are about $12 on epay.
There's no ball diff to my knowledge. I've had no problems with the gear diff, packed with Tamiya AW grease (you get a small pot with the DF02 universals).
Front wheels are bearing fitment, rear wheels are 12mm drive hex. HPI have heaps of suitable wheel styles. Pretty much any brand 2WD stadium truck 2.2 wheel will fit.

Definitely throw the kit pinion in the trash. Steel 32dp is the replacement pitch.

#5 Shaggy39

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 10:11 AM

That is fantatic thanks for all the info. One last question, what pinion do you run with your b/less set up?

Thanks again

#53828 DT02 Turnbuckle Set. This set contains all the needed turnbuckles to do the four upper links and the two steering links, all the needed ballcups, and some ball nuts and screws. You may need some extra mount hardware to adapt the ball screws/nuts to the Blitzer chassis mount points. Otherwise it's like the set was made for the Blitzer.
#53791 DF02 assembly universal shaft set. This set contains two 70mm universal shafts (CVD type). The older Thundershot universal shaft (#53028) set will work also.
Put the part numbers into google images and it will show what they look like.

I have both of these upgrades on my Blitzer.

Brushless 4300Kv will work fine. I have Castle 4600Kv in mine.
Bearing sets are about $12 on epay.
There's no ball diff to my knowledge. I've had no problems with the gear diff, packed with Tamiya AW grease (you get a small pot with the DF02 universals).
Front wheels are bearing fitment, rear wheels are 12mm drive hex. HPI have heaps of suitable wheel styles. Pretty much any brand 2WD stadium truck 2.2 wheel will fit.

Definitely throw the kit pinion in the trash. Steel 32dp is the replacement pitch.



#6 TA-Mark

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 11:01 AM

what pinion do you run with your b/less set up?

You can fit a 13 tooth or 15 tooth pinion. I have a Traxxas 13 tooth 32dp steel pinion on mine with the 4600Kv motor.

#7 chris350z

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 01:40 PM

You can fit a 13 tooth or 15 tooth pinion. I have a Traxxas 13 tooth 32dp steel pinion on mine with the 4600Kv motor.


I have a traxxas 15 tooth steel pinion in mine with a 23 turn. Accelatration is dull but top end is great. When we do street races I just ask if we can do a rolling start. lol <_<

Chris

#8 Percymon

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 02:15 PM

Robinson 13tooth steel pinion in my Blitzer Beetle, hooked up to an Ansmann Launcher 17x2 brushed motor - plenty quick enough for bashing, do-nuts are a doddle <_<

Not an upgrade but suggest you get a spare set of rear tyres - they don't last very long with a quick motor in B)


Out of the box the front end is a bit soft and it tends to sit down on its springs, even at rest - certainly needs to the preload spacers adding when you build it up.

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#9 chris350z

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 03:14 PM

Robinson 13tooth steel pinion in my Blitzer Beetle, hooked up to an Ansmann Launcher 17x2 brushed motor - plenty quick enough for bashing, do-nuts are a doddle <_<

Not an upgrade but suggest you get a spare set of rear tyres - they don't last very long with a quick motor in B)
Out of the box the front end is a bit soft and it tends to sit down on its springs, even at rest - certainly needs to the preload spacers adding when you build it up.


I put some monster beetle tyres on with the spikes worn off.

Chris

#10 berman

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 09:46 PM

I have a traxxas 15 tooth steel pinion in mine with a 23 turn. Accelatration is dull but top end is great. When we do street races I just ask if we can do a rolling start. lol ;)



I put some monster beetle tyres on with the spikes worn off.



Whoa! Your running the 15 tooth AND monster beetle tyres? I'm suprised you haven't cooked your motor or esc yet ;)

I would recommend only using a 15 tooth on silver can motors, 13 tooth on everything else.


Im just running ball bearings, 13 tooth RR steel pinion, 13x2 Reedy Quad Flash, 2S Lipo. Plenty quick.

Oh and get ready to buy a new shell (or install a wheelie bar) as when it scrapes the back it splits the rear body mount holes :)
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#11 chris350z

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 05:38 PM

Whoa! Your running the 15 tooth AND monster beetle tyres? I'm suprised you haven't cooked your motor or esc yet :lol:

I would recommend only using a 15 tooth on silver can motors, 13 tooth on everything else.
Im just running ball bearings, 13 tooth RR steel pinion, 13x2 Reedy Quad Flash, 2S Lipo. Plenty quick.

Oh and get ready to buy a new shell (or install a wheelie bar) as when it scrapes the back it splits the rear body mount holes :lol:


Yer they do a little bit warm, but I am going to put lower profile tyres on for better handling. Also I only run it on tarmac, so it does not get to hot, but I like the speed.

Chris

#12 berman

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 12:02 AM

Yer they do a little bit warm, but I am going to put lower profile tyres on for better handling. Also I only run it on tarmac, so it does not get to hot, but I like the speed.



Tamiya had a tarmac tyre for the stadium/dyna/blitzer, quite rare now, but proline also do a load of low profile street tyres for 2.2 so check them out. :lol:

If it's a BZ/TZ/RZ 23t, then be careful as the brushes are soft and hate heat, and I cant find a replacement commutator for this motor anywhere.

In a truck I would seriously move down to the 13tooth, you would be better off with a lower gear ratio and get a lower turn motor to make up the speed, and heat robs power.
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#13 chris350z

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:07 PM

Tamiya had a tarmac tyre for the stadium/dyna/blitzer, quite rare now, but proline also do a load of low profile street tyres for 2.2 so check them out. :lol:

If it's a BZ/TZ/RZ 23t, then be careful as the brushes are soft and hate heat, and I cant find a replacement commutator for this motor anywhere.

In a truck I would seriously move down to the 13tooth, you would be better off with a lower gear ratio and get a lower turn motor to make up the speed, and heat robs power.
[/quote]

The motor is just a asasman slash. I will look for lower tyres. The 15 tooth pinion was just an experiment. I will look for tyres. I have promised my self not to buy any new cars, just improve my current ones.

Chris

#14 kaiser

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Posted 05 April 2011 - 03:25 PM

i am very tempted to buy a stadium blitzer to run @ this years vonats. i already have a really nice rc10t that i was going to run but the S.B. re-release is calling my name.

are "we the collective" positve that there's no ball diff that will fit? i really prefer a ball diff over a gear diff for racing.

even if i don't race it i will most likely pick one up, the price is right and they are cool trucks.

those are standard 2.2 truck wheels i assume.??

#15 Saito

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Posted 06 April 2011 - 10:49 AM

Unless you can find the ball diff from the old Futaba FXT truck, no I don't know of any others. The FXT was mostly Blitzer parts designed by Tamiya for Futaba with a bunch of unique upgrades. The gearbox got a ball diff and a special aluminum motor mount piece that allowed for 4 pinions to be used rather than the Blitzer's 2.

#16 Shaggy39

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:59 PM

I'm so excited and I just can't hide. I know, I know, I know I want to build you oohoo!

After 3 weeks of hunting and gathering from various worldwide RC retailers everthing is here ready and waiting for my Blitzer Build. Kit and various upgrades from Stella Models and battery, esc and motor from Hobby King.
My wife and son are away next week so guess what I'm doing B) Yep building the sucker and I CAN'T WAIT!

For those of you who don't know I am slowly building up a Tamiya collection (again!) and plan to buy a car every month or so, funds allowing. So far I've done Sand Scorcher (although I have bought another body as the first one is not good enough paint job for my fussy taste), M06 Pro with beetle shell and now the Stadium Blitzer. The upgrades are driveshafts, turnbuckles (DF03 and DT02), bearings and shocks oh and a Parma Beetle Shell. Are you seeing a theme here :lol:
Anyway build starts Sunday night (after I have gone for a blast on the bike). Will keep you posted

#17 rbmjmw

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:59 PM

I'm so excited and I just can't hide. I know, I know, I know I want to build you oohoo!

After 3 weeks of hunting and gathering from various worldwide RC retailers everthing is here ready and waiting for my Blitzer Build. Kit and various upgrades from Stella Models and battery, esc and motor from Hobby King.
My wife and son are away next week so guess what I'm doing B) Yep building the sucker and I CAN'T WAIT!

For those of you who don't know I am slowly building up a Tamiya collection (again!) and plan to buy a car every month or so, funds allowing. So far I've done Sand Scorcher (although I have bought another body as the first one is not good enough paint job for my fussy taste), M06 Pro with beetle shell and now the Stadium Blitzer. The upgrades are driveshafts, turnbuckles (DF03 and DT02), bearings and shocks oh and a Parma Beetle Shell. Are you seeing a theme here :lol:
Anyway build starts Sunday night (after I have gone for a blast on the bike). Will keep you posted


Hello, sounds great. Which shocks have you gone for? I am looking at getting some different shocks for my build. Thanks Rich

#18 Shaggy39

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 08:45 PM

Hi there
Gone for the 3-Racing DF03 shock from Stella Models

#19 kaiser

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 02:20 PM

Hi there
Gone for the 3-Racing DF03 shock from Stella Models


i have a set of those (on a dt02), they come very stiff. you'll have to refill with a softer oil and larger hole pistons, the extra pistons are included.

#20 Shaggy39

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 05:47 PM

Just building blitzer and discovered that I've ordered the wrong turnbuckles! I've ordered the DT03 hard set (53940) instead of the others recommended. Mine don't come with the ball end screws, just the plastic ball ends.
I'm ok with toe in ones as the arms come with balls but the camber links won't work!

Any ideas how to mount (made complicated by using the step screws!). Was going to simply drill 3mm hole in ball ends and put m3 screw in.

Any help gratefully appreciated

#21 TA-Mark

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 11:07 PM

Just building blitzer and discovered that I've ordered the wrong turnbuckles! I've ordered the DT03 hard set (53940) instead of the others recommended. Mine don't come with the ball end screws, just the plastic ball ends.
I'm ok with toe in ones as the arms come with balls but the camber links won't work!

Any ideas how to mount (made complicated by using the step screws!). Was going to simply drill 3mm hole in ball ends and put m3 screw in.

Any help gratefully appreciated

You still need the basic turnbuckle set for the mounting hardware (Ball screws, ball nuts, screws), or buy the mounting hardware separate. The Hard Turnbuckle set is an upgrade for an upgrade so to speak when used on the Blitzer. You may need to cut the Hard Turnbuckles to get the right length, and the steering links will be too short.

#22 Shaggy39

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 08:10 AM

Thank you for this info. I've bitten the bullet and ordered the whole set (19) as I want to get it right. I have also ordered some ball ends with threaded rod (like the kit ones used on steering knuckles) for the bottom of the rear 3 racing shocks.
Can I also just ask was it you who has fitted a Kamtec Bug shell to your blitzer? Do you have part number for the body mounting pots I need to fit?
Thanks for your help

You still need the basic turnbuckle set for the mounting hardware (Ball screws, ball nuts, screws), or buy the mounting hardware separate. The Hard Turnbuckle set is an upgrade for an upgrade so to speak when used on the Blitzer. You may need to cut the Hard Turnbuckles to get the right length, and the steering links will be too short.



#23 TA-Mark

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:25 AM

Can I also just ask was it you who has fitted a Kamtec Bug shell to your blitzer?

Not me. I put a Bear Hawk body on my Blitzer chassis. Most of my cars are buggys or transformed into buggys.

I'd imagine you'd need the Blitzer Beetle body post set to fit a Kamtec Beetle (or SS2010/Blitzer Beetle body). The N-Parts (page 21 of the manual)

#24 eeeks

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 07:36 PM

Hello all

I've recently acquired a MINT Blitzer Beetle...with a thrashed body. The chassis looks like it was built, then ran once, then put away. This thing is pristine!

But of course, I can't leave well enough alone, so...the mods begin.

I've done bearings, steel pinion. flipped the steering arms to help alleviate some of the ridiculous bump steer, an esc to replace the mechanical speed controller, a reedy 3300kv brushless motor is on its way....

I've done universals but I've found that once the wheels are screwed on, there seems to be very little of the dogbone left in the drivecup. The pins "just" make it. If I add spacers to the axle side, I can't get the axle pin thru. I've used DF03 universals which I were told, would work (these:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120701348874).

Are there such things as longer steel drivecups to use on the gearbox side of the dogbones?

thanks in advance all...

#25 TA-Mark

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 03:24 PM

I've done universals but I've found that once the wheels are screwed on, there seems to be very little of the dogbone left in the drivecup. The pins "just" make it. If I add spacers to the axle side, I can't get the axle pin thru. I've used DF03 universals which I were told, would work (these:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120701348874).

GPM DF03 universal shafts are only 68mm long and too short for a DF03, and also too short for the Blitzer chassis as you've discovered. The Tamiya ones are 70mm, which will fit correctly.

68mm ones only work if you have adjustable upper links and use an insane amount of camber.



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