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TA-02 build up


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#1 commiedoor

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 03:05 AM

hi , i recently bought a dog of a TA02 of eblah
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and am in the process of fitting this body
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to the chassis using these wheels
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and a set of tough racing wheel wideners
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the TA02 chassis will need to have 10mm cut from the lenght to fit the body , the wideners will make it 26mm wider in the wheel track . i was going to use a TLO1 chassis but it was much too long and way too narrow ..
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#2 commiedoor

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 03:19 AM

ok , a tear down was in order and what a sick puppy its turned out to be . the previous owner had kept every thing lubed by just pouring oil on every thing , and as a result the plastic has turned brittle .
the rear shock mopunt crumbled at a touch , the rear gear box cover broke up and most of the screw holes split . on the front end , the gear box suffered the same fate with splits every were you looked . the good new is that it was fully ball bearinged , and the gears , though dry are fine . the gear box parts turned up today so they will be done soon , then when the replacement wheel bearing turn up , i can sort them out , the wheel bearing , though doused in oil , had seized up with rust or crud , either way i could not get them to spin free . the inner front bearing are the large special type so i had to order a complete set but thats ok , plenty of spares .
so far it's been cheap as i have a few spare transmitters , the esc , which is a duratrax brand , and the reciever all work , bonus !
the only other hold up is the tamiya rims i bought , they take 30mm tyres ! so more waiting for them to come .
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#3 Butler

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:54 AM

The DF01 chassis that's used for the Racing Lancer is about 200mm wide. (Different to the Manta Ray DF01) Converting your TA02 using the arms and drive shafts might give better results than the wheel wideners. Just a thought...
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#4 TA-Mark

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 08:29 AM

The DF01 chassis that's used for the Racing Lancer is about 200mm wide. (Different to the Manta Ray DF01) Converting your TA02 using the arms and drive shafts might give better results than the wheel wideners. Just a thought...

I was hoping the the DF01 (scale 4x4 type DF01) arms would work on a TA02/FF01 to get the right width for a 200mm body while still using 26mm wide wheels and no wide hexes which do nasty things to the steering geometry. I bought a 200mm Ford Cougar body (only size available) and want to mount it on a FF01. Would love to see a photo of this done if anyone has completed this mod.

#5 Butler

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 09:40 AM

I started with a TA01 chassis and a Racing lancer body. I bought the Hummer/Racing lancer D parts x2 (0005576) and some TA05 drive shafts. I think Tamiya quote 204mm wide for that chassis, where as the Manta Ray is 250mm. I haven't measured it though.

Let me know if you need pics.

But yes, I did this as I don't like wheels wideners either.
M03 Mini for the Track - Rebuild thread
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#6 commiedoor

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 12:19 AM

are the DF01 arms a direct replacement ? what about shock mounts and shocks ? pics would be nice ..
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#7 TA-Mark

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 01:22 AM

TA01, TA02 and DF01 all use the same gearboxes, so the lower arm fitment is the same. As the damper towers mount to the gearbox, these are also interchangable. Picking the right damper on any chassis is only a matter of measuring the length needed from eye to eye and buy the right length damper. Upper arm links are easy to get any length with turnbuckles.

As discussed in other threads, The rear knuckle and C-hub is the same between all three. TA02 has a different steering knuckle and front dogbone/axle/universal. If you use the TA01/DF01 steering knuckle you also need the TA01/DF01 dogbone/universal that matches the length of the lower arm.

I've used the DF01 buggy suspension on a TA02 before to make a 4x4 stadium truck from a TA02. I've not used the DF01 scale 4x4 suspension before (will soon though, when I get my hands on a FF01 chassis for the right price).

#8 Butler

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 07:31 AM

I am using the standard upper arms that came in the D parts, with the standard TA01 shock towers. I am hoping to convert to turnbuckles later.

The suspension is standard length Tamiya black CVA shocks, but as Mark says, just set the car to your ride height and measure the length from eye to eye.
M03 Mini for the Track - Rebuild thread
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#9 commiedoor

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 08:14 AM

i played around with a set of TL01b arms and found that with a bit of jigging around , i can get them to fit and work . only in the mock up stage at the moment but i will see how it goes..
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#10 Butler

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:29 AM

Sorry I don't have pics, but I have essentially built this:
http://www.tamiyausa...als/58154ml.pdf
except I have a grey tub, and red gearboxes and a racing lancer shell.
M03 Mini for the Track - Rebuild thread
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#11 commiedoor

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 11:54 PM

i played around with a set of TL01b arms and found that with a bit of jigging around , i can get them to fit and work . only in the mock up stage at the moment but i will see how it goes..

well , i fiddled around and i mounted the TL01 arms .. they are too wide . but i have another plan the rear wheel , with the full offset outwards , are only just too narrow .
i have a set of traxxas hex drives that are about double the thickness of the tamiya drives , soon as i find them , i will give them a go ,they might do the trick .
the front wheel width is near spot on with the wide offset . pics up soon. i just dont want to have to buy more stuff to finish this car , as its getting out of control , i have to shorten the chassis yet , imight cut 10mm out of the middle and plate it or make a new alloy bottom and top deck for it ..
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#12 commiedoor

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 11:54 PM

Sorry I don't have pics, but I have essentially built this:
http://www.tamiyausa...als/58154ml.pdf
except I have a grey tub, and red gearboxes and a racing lancer shell.

link didnt work mate .
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#13 TA-Mark

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 02:10 AM

link didnt work mate .

Link works if you copy the address straight into the browser. TamiyaUSA website refuses external links to it's pdf files.

You're going to cut the chassis? Is the body shorter than 238mm wheelbase?

#14 commiedoor

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 01:57 PM

the TA02 chassis i have is from axle to axle 255mm . my vk body is 245mm from centres of the wheel arches . it all most a has a square wheel base ... the 238mm chassis is a short wheel base model
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#15 TA-Mark

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 04:57 PM

I too have Repsol Escort TA02 kits (one NIB and one built), as seen in your first photo. Mine measures 257mm wheelbase, which is the standard wheelbase for a tourer/rally kit. As the TA01/TA02 has it's caster built into the gearbox, as the suspension compresses, the wheelbase will shorten.

Using a TA02 tub with TA01 rear arms will result in a shorter wheelbase than standard. The TA01 rear arms can be used the right way up to make a 237mm wheelbase (or 235mm with the suspension compressed a little). With the TA01 rear arms upsidedown it makes a 247mm wheelbase (or again, with the suspesnion compressed slightly, 245mm).

The TA01/TA02 can be built in 10mm wheelbase increments from from 237mm to 277mm by substituting tub or rear suspension arms. Minor adjustments in wheelbase can be made by spacing the C-Hub and Rear knuckle in the arm.

Unless the required chassis is less than 237mm or larger than 277mm, there is no need to cut the tub on a TA02/TA01 (and make a custom length propshaft for 4WD).

#16 commiedoor

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 12:31 AM

drat , i have the hack saw all warmed up and ready too . i thought about the TA01 arms but since this thing has gone way over budget , well sort of a budget ! , i didnt reallywantto have to order some arms then wait 3 weeks for them to get here by slow sampan from hongchina . the thought of making an alloy chassis top and bottom plate sounds the idea too , the drive shaft is easy sort out .
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#17 commiedoor

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 12:32 AM

drat , i have the hack saw all warmed up and ready too . i thought about the TA01 arms but since this thing has gone way over budget , well sort of a budget ! , i didnt reallywantto have to order some arms then wait 3 weeks for them to get here by slow sampan from hongchina . the thought of making an alloy chassis top and bottom plate sounds the idea too , the drive shaft is easy sort out .

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52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#18 commiedoor

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 11:40 AM

its all finished ! the TA01 rear arms came in the post and after a bit of trialing , i settled for the right way forward . i used a set of traxxas slasher 2x4 hex's on the rear as the hex's are nearly twice as long as the tamiya ones , this just means i better keep an eye on them wheel nuts as the nylon lock part doesnt reach the thread .

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i even got excited and made up an interiour with a driver for it . the body is held on by velcro strips on plates mounted on the original body mounts , front and rear so i dont have to drill any holes in the body i just turned them sideways and screwed the plates to them . the arieal is mounted along the length of the chassis as well .

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52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)

#19 qatmix

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 03:56 PM

That looks great! The TA01/02 are my favourite chassis to mod and build project cars it makes a great range of cars from on-road to rally to offroad. On my blog I have recently just picked one up and have been making a rtr car for less than 25 mad cheap!
www.thercracer.com/

Yeah man check it out!

#20 BigJag

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 08:01 PM

Would you be able to post some picures of your velcro mounting method please?

#21 pikachoo-75

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 10:03 PM

commiedoor,if you find the rear wheel nuts a problem then you could try a pair of TG10 long wheel axles.
these will give you extra axle after the drive pin..perfect for your thicker Traxxas hexes or even Tamiya's own thicker hexes.
the part number if you wanna have a look is 50808.your existing dogbones will fit just as normal.

#22 MAD RACER

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 10:31 PM

Seems you like Gricey right.

Nice Job. Love the 1986 Bathurst VK Commidore .

Well done. Did you paint it up ????

Vintage all the way!!!!!!   


#23 TA-Mark

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 10:32 PM

There's also 1/2 thickness wheel nuts. The combination of the longer axles and the thinner wheel nuts ensure the nylock will engage some thread.

#24 pikachoo-75

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 11:44 PM

There's also 1/2 thickness wheel nuts. The combination of the longer axles and the thinner wheel nuts ensure the nylock will engage some thread.

good idea! and easiest/cheapest.
been in the situation with wheel nuts where it didnt quite reach the nylon bit...one side was fine..other side fired off every 5 seconds!

#25 commiedoor

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 01:30 AM

as stated , i screwed 2 alumiuim plates to the stock body mounts , which i turned sideways them put some stick on velcro dots on the plates and carefully placed the body on the chassis . it doesnt matter if your a bit out as that velcro stuff holds on good !

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in this pic , you can see the aerial mount under the rear mount .

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i sorted out the width problem by using a pair of those wheel wideners i bought , the flairs on the body are wider on the back than the front so i only needed half a set .

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the wheel baee is still not quit right , even after trying the TA01 arms each way , so , i may end up cutting the chassis any way .

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i wish i painted it , but it was done by a shop on ebay that painted bodies in australia , it was cheap cause of a few little bleeds in the masking .
52 rc cars -- really out of room now .. gotta stop soon ! . ;)



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